While M1 5W30 is a fine oil , I like the fact that Valvoline Advanced 5W30 has a large amount of moly (approx. 2.5X to 3X more than M1 ) but then I started thinking : “Just how much moly is enough over a 4K mile OCI” ? Is it possible that although M1 shows a lower amount of moly in a VOA versus Valvoline Advanced (or QSUD) perhaps M1 uses a different type of moly or some other additives that protect critical engine parts from wear that may not show up in a VOA ?
M1 5W30 vs Valvoline Advanced Wear Protection ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
- Start date
What are you looking for? Moly reduces friction while Pho reduces wear and promotes cleanliness. Boron shares the same role as Pho.
I trust the oil manufacturers know what to put into their formulas and how much. Also, there are different types of Moly and Phos to consider.
Stop trying to play chemist and buy what you like, or what is on sale.
I trust the oil manufacturers know what to put into their formulas and how much. Also, there are different types of Moly and Phos to consider.
Stop trying to play chemist and buy what you like, or what is on sale.
Over a 4k oci you could probably dump the cheapest oil that meets spec you can find and as long as the engine isn't a dirty slug it'll be just as good as the best oil you could find. Use either and know your engine is protected
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2023
- Messages
- 339
I have ran both. I prefer valvoline, I get coupons and rebates from them all the time which makes it better value for me personally and have had zero issues on a 250k mile run.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2011
- Messages
- 5,061
@4k OCI me thinks you aren't quite getting your money's worth. Any reason you aren't at least going to 5k OCI? Serious question, not a poke at you. I'd like to know the reasoning behind it. I know if I had a TDI/DI I'dlikely be doing a 5k OCI instead of the 7500K I currently run.
dnewton3
Staff member
What's in the bottles is not nearly as important as what goes on in the crankcase.
Want to know how well they do? Get some UOAs and compare/contrast them to macro data.
I suspect for a 4k mile OCI, both of those are total overkill and you could save a lot of money using an API spec'd house brand.
Want to know how well they do? Get some UOAs and compare/contrast them to macro data.
I suspect for a 4k mile OCI, both of those are total overkill and you could save a lot of money using an API spec'd house brand.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
They may simply be using dimer moly still, while Mobil and SOPUS are both predominantly using trimer moly, which requires a lower treat rate for the same effect.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2021
- Messages
- 1,204
Which has been talked about for quite a while now on here. OP living under a rock?
I've always wondered what process is involved in the final mixture of base oil and additives and who makes the final decision and what's it based on? Do they start with a price point and mix around that? Do they just create an oil to pass the latest standards? Do they prioritize wear protection or cleanliness or high temp stability or cold temp flowability or anything else an oil has to provide? Is there one head chemist who makes the final decision? With all the major oil companies each having 100+ years of making motor oil, why do any of them have any measurable differences? With all the resources and ability to test, shouldn't we expect every oil to be almost identical in performance?
All the analysis of oils from companies known to use trimer usually come in very close to 80 ppm. I'm sure there's a reason for that. The amount in Valvoline screams that it is dimer moly, not that there is anything wrong with that but don't let the numbers fool you.
None of the majors are going to sell you an oil that doesn't do what it's supposed to do.
The one time darling of BITOG, Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, was right about 250 ppm moly, as was the MaxLife of the era.
None of the majors are going to sell you an oil that doesn't do what it's supposed to do.
The one time darling of BITOG, Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, was right about 250 ppm moly, as was the MaxLife of the era.
I used PP for years but switched to Valvoline when I got my Ranger. With more moly it seems quieter and I figure it's better for the turbocharger.
I didn't do well in chemistry...
Hyundai / Kia GDI engines are nasty , soot producing engines and by 4K miles the oil is toast ! Hyundai / Kia 2.4 L engines specifically need all the bearing wear prevention they can get - thus the question .
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2011
- Messages
- 5,061
WOW! I did not know they were that bad.
I run my wife's 2.4L N/A Sonata out to 7500 as standard. The first engine laster until 215,000 and the service advisor at the local Hyundai place said it was one of the longest lasting Theta-ii engines she had seen. Lol
Exactly correct. That’s why the gf’s Spectra is getting Providence 5w30 and a budget filter (STP XL Made by first brands.