I have a coworker that has a Camry that has this issue. It had it for several years, and then about three years ago he changed out the parts to correct it. However he bought generic/incorrect parts from somewhere like Amazon and they weren’t the right ones and got some sort of engine code. So he took them out and put the old ones back in and that was three years ago. It does make quite a racket but he’s still driving it.
Is 5W and 0W essentially the same flow/lubricity at 40-60F +?
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thanks!! since it ran 0w20 its whole life im leaning to 0w30 or 5w30 since i don't wanna jump up in viscosity all of a sudden. i really wanna try a euro 5w30/w30 with high hths which is basically a thin w40 but am hesitant since havent read much others doing that in this engine. seems like im the only scapegoat. even tho i doubt it will make a diff just too shy to jump that high so i finally convinced myself to start with a thin ish 5w30 or 0w30
If it’s going to help it all you want increased viscosity. Your engine isn’t an animal you’re trying to wean on to a different diet and are worried about its digestive tract.
ahahah its so hard for me to just pull the trigger but ill do w30 now and then maybe by next oil change ill be ready to jump to 40
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OP, any result to report?
I ran 10W30 and 15W40 HDs in a 2010 Yaris and two 2013 Matrix.
IMO, XW20s are for door hinges and sewing machines.
IMO, XW20s are for door hinges and sewing machines.
Where do you live? If it's a warm climate, then it's not going to matter. But if you live in Fairbanks or Fargo, you want good cold flow. Then I would stick with a 0W rated oil.
The graph is great to answer the "puzzle" above freezing. Can anyone find the same graph BUT with more data on the negative side of the temperature scale, as in -10, -20, -30, -40.
Putting the Simple Back into Viscosity - Bob is the Oil Guy
by John Sander, VP Technology, Lubrication Engineers Inc. Abstract: Simply stated, viscosity is defined as the internal resistance of a fluid to flow. That doesn’t sound too difficult, does it? Unfortunately, new temperature, speed and pressure demands on lubricating fluids have changed over the...bobistheoilguy.com
Both oils Castrol Edge. Bugger all difference really.
https://widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
As a rule of thumb though, barring specialist formulations, a 10w or 15w pcmo is going to be made of cheaper base stocks and less robust additive pack than a 5w or 0w. So if it adheres to the same spec as the full synthetic it isn’t going to matter much except for the longer drain interval you get with a FS oil and possibly better performance under severe conditions.
Question... Looking at both a European Formula 0W-40 compared to a 10W-40 of the same brand, (say Mobil 1), how much thinner is the 0W-40 going to be at operating temperature? (Say 212 F).
I suppose a better way of putting it, is how much more, (if any), viscosity are you giving up on the high end, in order to have better 0W flow on the low temperature end? (Cold start).
I suppose a better way of putting it, is how much more, (if any), viscosity are you giving up on the high end, in order to have better 0W flow on the low temperature end? (Cold start).
Essentially no difference above freezing.
I would think it's going to depend on the amount/type of VII. I was able to obtain the hths for Redline Performance 0w40 vs 10w40 of 4.1 vs 4.4 respectfully but these two oils were within the Performance line. M1 only sells 10w40 as a HM oil so different application.
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Viscosity calculators stop working properly below approximately 0C, so while you can make a plot, it won't mirror what the product will actually perform like.
My noisy Ford engine has been quietest on QS 10w30 FS.
recently installed Valvoline Advanced 5W30 for winter as it was on sale at WM. Engine is noisy again and fuel mileage way down (3mpg lta) likely moreso the result of Winter gas formulation and cooler temps.
This engine calibration appears to thrive in very hot and humid weather regardless of the stratospheric static compression ratio
recently installed Valvoline Advanced 5W30 for winter as it was on sale at WM. Engine is noisy again and fuel mileage way down (3mpg lta) likely moreso the result of Winter gas formulation and cooler temps.
This engine calibration appears to thrive in very hot and humid weather regardless of the stratospheric static compression ratio
In general, if you take a bunch of oils that are otherwise meeting the same other specifications, a 0W20 and 5W20 viscosity curve will be slightly different on average throughout the temperature range. I don't know why there are some members here who like to try to pretend like this isn't case. Yes there are also examples of 0W oils that are thicker along much of the curve than some 5W oils..... especially say, a 0W30 A3/B4 type oil that has a high HTHS target for a 30 weight, vs say, a 5W oil formulated for a fuel economy HTHS target, but that's a different sort of comparison. Assuming all other things are equal, it is reasonable to assume that on average, a 0W20's viscosity curve will be thinner overall than a 5W20 except where they basically line up near operating temp. As long as you don't say it out loud, or draw any conclusions from this reality, then you'll be fine... Woops...
When you turn off the vehicle after running it long enough to be up to normal operating temps, both a 0W20 and 5W20 are going to be about the same viscosity and both are going to leave behind about the same amount of oil on surfaces as most of the oil drains down to the sump. By the time they cool off enough for any viscosity differences to show up, it no longer matters, because the parts in the engine already "dripped/drained" down while the oil was hot and thin.
Some cars do not have an anti-drain-back system in place to keep oil in the passages leading to the various oiled components in the head, or the design of a specific component causes the oil to drain out of it normally. This is pretty common. The "solution" to the problem you're describing would come from placing an anti-drain-back valve in the path of the oil between the pump and the head or offending component within the head so that the moment the engine is cranking, the oil is already there and the pressure comes up instantly.
With that said, I question whether it's actually a problem that needs to be solved, and I can pretty much guarantee that any change to your oil selection that can meaningfully resolve this startup noise is going to be an oil that is not suitable for the rest of the engine. The solution isn't going to come from a grade change or a Euro oil or anything. You'd need some truly snot/honey levels of sticky up there in the noisy part of the head to make it "stick" and quiet things down, but the rest of the engine can't run on that.
As previously mentioned in the thread, at your ambient temps, an oil pump is going to move about the same amount of oil per revolution of the engine whether the oil is 0W20 or or 15W50, and so, will take the same amount of time to reach the noisy mechanism that needs oil pressure to work right.
If anything oil related stands a chance of quieting down that engine on startup, it's probably going to be an "old" formulation... something with less "dry" base stocks, and more lower group level oils and older "snotty" add packs that seem to carry a bit more of that surface tension tackiness. If you want to go down the mostly pointless rabbit hole of trying to fix a hard part problem with liquids, Try a 10W30 conventional or synthetic blend, optionally a "HM" formulation. Castrol GTX or Havoline... Havoline can be ordered through walmart in 6qt garage boxes for about the price of other 5qt jugs from walmart. Good value there. In my experience fancy 0W synthetics don't make for quieter engines. I can't stress this enough, none of these oils are going to solve that problem, but might make it slightly quieter...
