any reason not to use a 10w in the south with hot temperatures year round?

[apollo18]

hey all! it seems like 0w has become the gold standard now a days but ive read and heard some conflicting info,
one side of the story says to get a 0w as it will flow faster at startup, however a diff story says that at hot ambient temps (meaning cold startup at the lowest of outside temp of 60f), 0w and 10w startup flow would be the same and that the 0w would only be better at temps colder then example 32f etc etc

ive seen some conflicting graphs for both so not sure what the correct info is

the reason i ask, is im at a hot temp so if hot ambient temp cold startup flow is the same or very close between 0w 5w 10w then its a no brainer to get a 10w since it will have less vii etc and less shear etc, however if the cold flow even at hot temps (60f) is better with the 0w then i guess better to go with the 0w since the shear probability is probably low

i was also hoping that maybe a 10w would have a larger film strength / 'stickiness' compared to a 0w which would mean the oil would stick to the parts more vs all draining to the pan as a 0w would but maybe that is just assumption

i know i am def overthinking but this is what the forum is for ahha! so looking to make a choice on the miniscule difference

 

[Hermann]

No

 

[walterjay]

I use 10 regularly here in Maryland.

 

[Lavrishevo]

In the coldest part of winter I would run a 5w. That film strength is on initial cold start for the most part, the hot weight will be more important under load. Cera Tec by Liqui Moly offers better cold start protection than any product I’ve ever used. Virtually no cold start valve clatter. Lots of people seem to hate on the product but it seems to be only those who don’t use it. I’ve used in the northeast too sub zero conditions. This is when you really notice the difference. It’s also not an oil additive, it’s a ceramic based product that binds to the metal to create an extra layer of protection. I use it in every vehicle I have owned for 10 years with the same impressive results. You use it once every 20k miles. Anyway, check it out on Amazon. Only 18k plus reviews…

 

[JavierH19]

Nope. I run 15w-40 in my trucks and at first i thought it was the reason my sierra struggled to start in the winter storm but it was the battery. My Yukon fired up just fine. It didin't get cold enough here in texas even during uri for it to matter.

 

[KL31]

W number is going to be almost irrelevant in hot climates. In fact, compared to super cold areas, a mono grade 30 would be potentially thinner than a 0W30.

Use whatever 10W oil without hesitation. Just make sure it suits your engine. Eg, maybe you need a newer API SP for a direct injection turbo engine or VW spec oil if you run a VW etc.

 

[Kalle.J]

Viscosity wise I doubt there is a major difference.
Oil wise I feel like there are more "full synthetics" with higher grade base stocks and newer add-packs when shopping 0W-X
But that could be dependant on market i guess.

 

[demarpaint]

You'll be fine.

 

[apollo18]

The only 0w-30 for a good price in USA around where I am is M1 AFE not sure if that’s more stouty then any other 5-10w I can find

 

[barkingspider]

I use 10w30 in my matrix and Avalanche living in Southern California. No issues

 

[dwendt44]

Some, maybe most manufactures, allow 10W oils in Mexico, Australia, etc...

 

[4WD]

Have 3 jugs of this (for older Tahoe+new Cub Cadet)

 

[4329]

hey all! it seems like 0w has become the gold standard now a days but ive read and heard some conflicting info,
one side of the story says to get a 0w as it will flow faster at startup, however a diff story says that at hot ambient temps (meaning cold startup at the lowest of outside temp of 60f), 0w and 10w startup flow would be the same and that the 0w would only be better at temps colder then example 32f etc etc

ive seen some conflicting graphs for both so not sure what the correct info is

the reason i ask, is im at a hot temp so if hot ambient temp cold startup flow is the same or very close between 0w 5w 10w then its a no brainer to get a 10w since it will have less vii etc and less shear etc, however if the cold flow even at hot temps (60f) is better with the 0w then i guess better to go with the 0w since the shear probability is probably low

i was also hoping that maybe a 10w would have a larger film strength / 'stickiness' compared to a 0w which would mean the oil would stick to the parts more vs all draining to the pan as a 0w would but maybe that is just assumption

i know i am def overthinking but this is what the forum is for ahha! so looking to make a choice on the miniscule difference

If your owner’s manual gives a range of viscosities that includes a10w oil, then no problem. In Australia some manufactures give a choice depending on ambient temps

 

[mobilnissan1991]

10W30 year round in my ‘12 F150 with the 3.7 in South Louisiana, 235,240 miles showing when I parked it a few minutes ago and zero issues since I bought it with 151,646 miles four years ago.

 

[SR5]

I’m in a warm climate and I’m running API SP 10W30 right now. I’ve previously run 15W40 year round.

Conversely if I found some full synthetic 0W40 or 5W30 at a good price, then I would happily run that too.

For me, it doesn’t make much of a difference either way.

 

[bbhero]

10w is good and tested down to -13 degrees Fahrenheit.

Though oils are allowed to slip one winter rating while in service. So a 10w can become a 15w.

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

In what vehicle do you need all that "stickiness" in? What ultimately are you going for? Cheaper 10W oils or just need validation that you should use them?

I doubt it will hurt anything but in a newer vehicle I'd say "no"....

 

[Graham Piccinini]

With prices still going up on everything, I may end up running Mobil Delvac (1300 Super) 15W-40 across the board here in the Carolinas.
Love me some M1 0W-40 ($5.39/qt) , but for my usage and climate HDEO 15W-40 ($3.48/quart) should be just fine. Or even SuperTech 15W-40 ($2.99/qt), if I really need to penny-pinch. It does help that I never go over 5000 miles, even if manufacturer recommends a longer OCI.
So if 15W-40 hasn't given me any issues yet (used in mine and 2 other family vehicles so far), then I doubt that 10W-30/40 will have any negative effects either, if climate allows.

 

[buster]

10w-30 has come back around for me. While often labeled as an obsolete grade, they "generally" offer lower volatility and in theory less VII's, which can be beneficial in some GDI engines.

 

[Rmay635703]

10w-30 has come back around for me. While often labeled as an obsolete grade, they "generally" offer lower volatility and in theory less VII's, which can be beneficial in some GDI engines.

10w30 seems to handle dillusion a lot better than the 5w or 0w versions.

My ecotec doesn’t sound like a box of hammers at 1500 miles using a 10w instead of a 5w