My first time using the Royal Purple HPS 5w30 in my 2012 Audi A6. Until now I was using up my stash of Royal Purple 5w40. With 5w40 the car ran smooth and quiet but it had a slight top end valve train ticking and also a little clattering on very cold starts. I've had the HPS 5w30 in the sump for 2 weeks and both the ticking and clattering are completely non existent. Thus the oil runs a little smoother and quieter than the RP 5w40 which was surprising because 5w40 ran super smooth and quiet in its own right.
Impressed with Royal Purple HPS
- Thread starter deven
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Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Nice...what is recommended for your Audi?
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
Nice...what is recommended for your Audi?
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Nice...what is recommended for your Audi?
I believe Audi VW 502 00.
Nice...what is recommended for your Audi?
I believe Audi VW 502 00.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Yes the cold start clatter could definitely be due to 5w30. The faint ticking present even when warm I would think would be worse with a thinner 5w30 oil.
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Yes the cold start clatter could definitely be due to 5w30. The faint ticking present even when warm I would think would be worse with a thinner 5w30 oil.
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
Originally Posted By: deven
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
Originally Posted By: robertcope
Originally Posted By: deven
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
I meant that the oils listed on the VW 502.00 list vary from 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40.
My car is heavily modified so my warranty has already been buhbye so that list is not important to me.
Originally Posted By: deven
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
I meant that the oils listed on the VW 502.00 list vary from 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40.
My car is heavily modified so my warranty has already been buhbye so that list is not important to me.
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: robertcope
Originally Posted By: deven
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
I meant that the oils listed on the VW 502.00 list vary from 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40.
My car is heavily modified so my warranty has already been buhbye so that list is not important to me.
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
Originally Posted By: robertcope
Originally Posted By: deven
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
I meant that the oils listed on the VW 502.00 list vary from 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40.
My car is heavily modified so my warranty has already been buhbye so that list is not important to me.
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: robertcope
Originally Posted By: deven
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
I meant that the oils listed on the VW 502.00 list vary from 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40.
My car is heavily modified so my warranty has already been buhbye so that list is not important to me.
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: robertcope
Originally Posted By: deven
The requirement is a VW 502.00 oils. On the list are 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40 oils
I'm sure you know this, but there is more to the spec than the weight of the oil. Most 5w30s aren't going to meet the requirements. Personally, I'd stick to M1 0W-40 in this motor, but there are many opinions
robert
I meant that the oils listed on the VW 502.00 list vary from 5w30, 5w40 and 0w40.
My car is heavily modified so my warranty has already been buhbye so that list is not important to me.
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Too thick? In the cold, or at-temp in terms of 100C visco or HTHS?
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Too thick? In the cold, or at-temp in terms of 100C visco or HTHS?
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Too thick? In the cold, or at-temp in terms of 100C visco or HTHS?
In the cold mainly
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Too thick? In the cold, or at-temp in terms of 100C visco or HTHS?
In the cold mainly
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Yes the cold start clatter could definitely be due to 5w30. The faint ticking present even when warm I would think would be worse with a thinner 5w30 oil.
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
How long are your trips?
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Yes the cold start clatter could definitely be due to 5w30. The faint ticking present even when warm I would think would be worse with a thinner 5w30 oil.
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
How long are your trips?
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Too thick? In the cold, or at-temp in terms of 100C visco or HTHS?
In the cold mainly
Their spec chart makes me believe the 10w40 might actually be a 5w40, or just barely fails to be a 5w40. 6600 cP cold cranking at -30C is the border for 5w and not.
http://www.royalpurpleindustrial.com/assets/RP-HPS-MO-PDS1.pdf
------
10w oils are rated for their cold cranking down to -25C/-15F and pumping down to -30C/-20F. Being a high-quality synthetic, there's more margin on this...
With HPS 10w40 you get a 4.1 cP HTHS and a little thicker 100C visco than most xw40s (13.8 cSt)
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Being heavily modified I wonder if HPS 10w40 would be a better option?
I race the car in the summer. I think 10w40 would be too thick. I'll get a UOA done and see how HPS held up viscosity wise.
Too thick? In the cold, or at-temp in terms of 100C visco or HTHS?
In the cold mainly
Their spec chart makes me believe the 10w40 might actually be a 5w40, or just barely fails to be a 5w40. 6600 cP cold cranking at -30C is the border for 5w and not.
http://www.royalpurpleindustrial.com/assets/RP-HPS-MO-PDS1.pdf
------
10w oils are rated for their cold cranking down to -25C/-15F and pumping down to -30C/-20F. Being a high-quality synthetic, there's more margin on this...
With HPS 10w40 you get a 4.1 cP HTHS and a little thicker 100C visco than most xw40s (13.8 cSt)
^^With racing this car my goal is always to go as thick as necessary and as thin as possible. I've talked to the RP techs and all agree that the 5w30 HPS should be thick enough due to the higher film strength
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Yes the cold start clatter could definitely be due to 5w30. The faint ticking present even when warm I would think would be worse with a thinner 5w30 oil.
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
How long are your trips?
Work commutes are all city 3 miles each way. Plus I have 3 business locations that are all city driving 6 miles each way.
Originally Posted By: deven
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Yes the cold start clatter could definitely be due to 5w30. The faint ticking present even when warm I would think would be worse with a thinner 5w30 oil.
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
How long are your trips?
Work commutes are all city 3 miles each way. Plus I have 3 business locations that are all city driving 6 miles each way.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Some it is also subjective. Do you remember the noise exactly after you changed the oil the last time vs this time. Or comparing how its sounds with fresh oil vs used and ready to be changed?
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Some it is also subjective. Do you remember the noise exactly after you changed the oil the last time vs this time. Or comparing how its sounds with fresh oil vs used and ready to be changed?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: deven
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
I don't think that their API has Synerlec. Royal Purple's customer service is top notch though.
I bought a 6qt case of their HMX 5w30. Somehow a quart of HPS 20w50 made it in the case. I didn't notice until I was pouring it in and the funnel about overflowed. I called them just to double check if I'd be alright. They immediately shipped me a new case without me even asking. I noticed no difference in cold starts or running with the mix of 4.5qts 5w30 and 1qt 20w50.
Royal Purple has told me that their HPS line has 4 times the amount of Synerlec than their API line of oil and therefore that much more the oil film thickness. I think this also has something to do with my observations.
I don't think that their API has Synerlec. Royal Purple's customer service is top notch though.
I bought a 6qt case of their HMX 5w30. Somehow a quart of HPS 20w50 made it in the case. I didn't notice until I was pouring it in and the funnel about overflowed. I called them just to double check if I'd be alright. They immediately shipped me a new case without me even asking. I noticed no difference in cold starts or running with the mix of 4.5qts 5w30 and 1qt 20w50.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Some it is also subjective. Do you remember the noise exactly after you changed the oil the last time vs this time. Or comparing how its sounds with fresh oil vs used and ready to be changed?
I agree. A while back we had a simliar discussion. I feel in many instances the new fresh oil is going to improve things since the old oil that was drained out in many cases is spent. It would be hard to remember how the oil that was drained "felt and sounded" several months and several thousand miles earlier when it was first poured in.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Then I asked:
How long are your trips?
The reply was:
Work commutes are all city 3 miles each way. Plus I have 3 business locations that are all city driving 6 miles each way.
That would make the 5W30 a better choice for winter than the 40 grade oil he drained out. Odds are the oil is never getting to operating temperature making the 30 grade a better choice especially during the winter.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Generally speaking going from a 5w-40 to a 5w-30 in the winter should help those things you a described a bit. Especially in colder climates. Not a bash against RP, just saying.
Some it is also subjective. Do you remember the noise exactly after you changed the oil the last time vs this time. Or comparing how its sounds with fresh oil vs used and ready to be changed?
I agree. A while back we had a simliar discussion. I feel in many instances the new fresh oil is going to improve things since the old oil that was drained out in many cases is spent. It would be hard to remember how the oil that was drained "felt and sounded" several months and several thousand miles earlier when it was first poured in.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Then I asked:
How long are your trips?
The reply was:
Work commutes are all city 3 miles each way. Plus I have 3 business locations that are all city driving 6 miles each way.
That would make the 5W30 a better choice for winter than the 40 grade oil he drained out. Odds are the oil is never getting to operating temperature making the 30 grade a better choice especially during the winter.
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