I'm putting the Redline 0w30 in today...

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First yes it goes to work that fast. My Camry has a quite engine to start with but with Redline in it you can not tell it running even if you are standing outside the car. Additive chemistry works almost instantly as does nice film strength.

I put some Castrol Syntec in my car once because it was on clearance at Walmart at the time. I think it was 10W40 or 0W30 but was not the Castrol GC type. It was noisy in my engine. I added some additive to the oil I think at the time I was using Molakules SX-UP additive. The noise level droped as I was pouring it into the engine!


Ester's are chmical completly different from PAO,GII,GII and GI oils. They have higher film strength, HTHS,and are less effected by heat and cold temp.'s! They pump easier and shear less then anything else in motor oil. The are very polar where as all other base stocks used in car oil have no real polar action at all. Ester's are what is used in Jet Engine Oil primarily and it is also what you would use to lubricate parts in a space ship or satalite.

Amsoil was origanaly ester based long long ago before changing to PAO. Ester's cost a lot more then any other base stock hence their rare usuage today. Companies like MOtul,Torco,VP Racing,NEO,Redline, FUchs Titan are some of the odd ball companies that still sell oils that are either mostly ester or all ester based.

Because of the polar nature of ester's they will actualy get under things like varnish so that they can attach themselfs to the metal in the engine. They will generaly find a way to get under anything that stands between them and metal. THis is also why we see such extreme cleaning effect of all the oxides from Fe to Pb and everything in between in an engine. This is also why they keep an engine so clean as long as they are in the pores of the metal nothing else can stick to it.

You also find that it takes more heat to cook them into carbon or sludge. They will flow towards the hot parts will most other oils will try to flow away from hot parts.

If ever you did get any varnish(not likely) due tot he polar nature of ester's youcan clean the varnish off with Iso Alc.!
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
First yes it goes to work that fast. My Camry has a quite engine to start with but with Redline in it you can not tell it running even if you are standing outside the car. Additive chemistry works almost instantly as does nice film strength.

I put some Castrol Syntec in my car once because it was on clearance at Walmart at the time. I think it was 10W40 or 0W30 but was not the Castrol GC type. It was noisy in my engine. I added some additive to the oil I think at the time I was using Molakules SX-UP additive. The noise level droped as I was pouring it into the engine!


Ester's are chmical completly different from PAO,GII,GII and GI oils. They have higher film strength, HTHS,and are less effected by heat and cold temp.'s! They pump easier and shear less then anything else in motor oil. The are very polar where as all other base stocks used in car oil have no real polar action at all. Ester's are what is used in Jet Engine Oil primarily and it is also what you would use to lubricate parts in a space ship or satalite.

Amsoil was origanaly ester based long long ago before changing to PAO. Ester's cost a lot more then any other base stock hence their rare usuage today. Companies like MOtul,Torco,VP Racing,NEO,Redline, FUchs Titan are some of the odd ball companies that still sell oils that are either mostly ester or all ester based.

Because of the polar nature of ester's they will actualy get under things like varnish so that they can attach themselfs to the metal in the engine. They will generaly find a way to get under anything that stands between them and metal. THis is also why we see such extreme cleaning effect of all the oxides from Fe to Pb and everything in between in an engine. This is also why they keep an engine so clean as long as they are in the pores of the metal nothing else can stick to it.

You also find that it takes more heat to cook them into carbon or sludge. They will flow towards the hot parts will most other oils will try to flow away from hot parts.

If ever you did get any varnish(not likely) due tot he polar nature of ester's youcan clean the varnish off with Iso Alc.!



Hmmmm? Great post. May have to give it a try.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
First yes it goes to work that fast. My Camry has a quite engine to start with but with Redline in it you can not tell it running even if you are standing outside the car. Additive chemistry works almost instantly as does nice film strength.

I put some Castrol Syntec in my car once because it was on clearance at Walmart at the time. I think it was 10W40 or 0W30 but was not the Castrol GC type. It was noisy in my engine. I added some additive to the oil I think at the time I was using Molakules SX-UP additive. The noise level droped as I was pouring it into the engine!


Ester's are chmical completly different from PAO,GII,GII and GI oils. They have higher film strength, HTHS,and are less effected by heat and cold temp.'s! They pump easier and shear less then anything else in motor oil. The are very polar where as all other base stocks used in car oil have no real polar action at all. Ester's are what is used in Jet Engine Oil primarily and it is also what you would use to lubricate parts in a space ship or satalite.

Amsoil was origanaly ester based long long ago before changing to PAO. Ester's cost a lot more then any other base stock hence their rare usuage today. Companies like MOtul,Torco,VP Racing,NEO,Redline, FUchs Titan are some of the odd ball companies that still sell oils that are either mostly ester or all ester based.

Because of the polar nature of ester's they will actualy get under things like varnish so that they can attach themselfs to the metal in the engine. They will generaly find a way to get under anything that stands between them and metal. THis is also why we see such extreme cleaning effect of all the oxides from Fe to Pb and everything in between in an engine. This is also why they keep an engine so clean as long as they are in the pores of the metal nothing else can stick to it.

You also find that it takes more heat to cook them into carbon or sludge. They will flow towards the hot parts will most other oils will try to flow away from hot parts.

If ever you did get any varnish(not likely) due tot he polar nature of ester's youcan clean the varnish off with Iso Alc.!


thumbsup2.gif
awsome post thanks
 
John, great information... Will be interesting to see if it stands up that well in my application.

I will be cutting open the Amsoil EAO filter I have on there once this "cleanup" run is over to see if it released anything that Amsoil didn't.

I don't take it that it will as my engine has always used Synthetic since it was broken in and at reasonable OCI's and always using HQ syns.

Will keep y'all posted.

Steve
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
First yes it goes to work that fast. My Camry has a quite engine to start with but with Redline in it you can not tell it running even if you are standing outside the car. Additive chemistry works almost instantly as does nice film strength.

I put some Castrol Syntec in my car once because it was on clearance at Walmart at the time. I think it was 10W40 or 0W30 but was not the Castrol GC type. It was noisy in my engine. I added some additive to the oil I think at the time I was using Molakules SX-UP additive. The noise level droped as I was pouring it into the engine!


Ester's are chmical completly different from PAO,GII,GII and GI oils. They have higher film strength, HTHS,and are less effected by heat and cold temp.'s! They pump easier and shear less then anything else in motor oil. The are very polar where as all other base stocks used in car oil have no real polar action at all. Ester's are what is used in Jet Engine Oil primarily and it is also what you would use to lubricate parts in a space ship or satalite.

Amsoil was origanaly ester based long long ago before changing to PAO. Ester's cost a lot more then any other base stock hence their rare usuage today. Companies like MOtul,Torco,VP Racing,NEO,Redline, FUchs Titan are some of the odd ball companies that still sell oils that are either mostly ester or all ester based.

Because of the polar nature of ester's they will actualy get under things like varnish so that they can attach themselfs to the metal in the engine. They will generaly find a way to get under anything that stands between them and metal. THis is also why we see such extreme cleaning effect of all the oxides from Fe to Pb and everything in between in an engine. This is also why they keep an engine so clean as long as they are in the pores of the metal nothing else can stick to it.

You also find that it takes more heat to cook them into carbon or sludge. They will flow towards the hot parts will most other oils will try to flow away from hot parts.

If ever you did get any varnish(not likely) due tot he polar nature of ester's youcan clean the varnish off with Iso Alc.!


This is a great post, Thank you sir!!
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning

You also find that it takes more heat to cook them into carbon or sludge. They will flow towards the hot parts will most other oils will try to flow away from hot parts.


Croda test as case in point:
depositscopy.jpg
 
Well, the thermometer is reading -2C (About 28F) this morning at 6:30am and the grass and windshield of our cars are all covered in frost.

Interesting to see how the Redline 0w30 compares to my Amsoil at this temperature.
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I know it isn't really cold but it's cold enough for me to see if there is valve lifter ticking on start-up as I usually experience with oils other than Amsoil.

If there is ticking I'm going to give it the benefit of the doubt that the chemistry in this oil hasn't made itself at home yet in my engine and still continue to run 3 runs of the stuff and then judge.

cheers3.gif


Steve
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Well, the thermometer is reading -2C (About 28F) this morning at 6:30am and the grass and windshield of our cars are all covered in frost.

Interesting to see how the Redline 0w30 compares to my Amsoil at this temperature.
20.gif


I know it isn't really cold but it's cold enough for me to see if there is valve lifter ticking on start-up as I usually experience with oils other than Amsoil.

If there is ticking I'm going to give it the benefit of the doubt that the chemistry in this oil hasn't made itself at home yet in my engine and still continue to run 3 runs of the stuff and then judge.

cheers3.gif


Steve
grin2.gif



For what it's worth, I got a slight hot start tick when I switched, 500 miles into the OCI. Definately valvetrain and it was very subtle, I would hardly classify it as a tick. It was silent on a cold start and while running but for the first 30 seconds after a hot start it had a tick. This is slowly going away and the engine is unbelievably quiet. I always liked how the Amsoil ACD quieted it down and it sounded like a sewing machine (in a good way) but now there's injector noise and that's it. One of the quietest engines I've heard. Idle is now so smooth I have to look at the tach to see if it's running. For all I know that could just be the weather but it consistantly idles smoother.

So I guess my only point is don't be worried if you get a new or different noise for the first OCI. If it weren't for the vastly different chemistry I would've been worried but I decided to wait to pass judgement and I'm glad I did.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
Hmmm... wonder how much it would quiet the famously noisy boxer :)


I have not tried redline in a subaru boxer but have tried it in a Porsche boxer (boxster S). Immediate differences over mobil 1 0W40 that I observed were:

1) Cranked over faster when starting.

2) Noise was markedly reduced. Engine sits only 12" behind your ears so you hear lots of noise with this flat 6. It was noticeably quieter with the redline over the M1. But redline 5W40 is 15.1 cst and M1 0W40 is much thinner so that may have been why.

3) Car revved more freely. No change in power that registered on the butt dyno but it really seemed to be more rev-happy.

I attribute #1 and 3 to polar esters and #2 to viscosity. But those things are all qualitative. My Boxster S engine was noisier than my subaru boxer engine (but there are lots of layers of foam, fiberglass, carpet to try to dampen the boxster noise) so I would guess subi results would be similar.?
 
Well I started it up in the cold this morning and it was quieter than with Amsoil on a cold morning and absolutely no lifter ticking. It also started like a hot summer day. (No Oil pan heater used)
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I drove 250 KM today (150K miles) (400 KM total on the oil now) and the truck is still super quiet and to me the engine seems to perform like it is free-er or something. It's probably me just being excited about the stuff, but I could swear it's more responsive and quicker to want to take-off.

No difference in Fuel Economy over the Amsoil so far. (According to my Scan Gauge and mileage book)

Also I called Shawn at Wild Goose Performance today to see how much the RL 0w30 is going for now and for all the Canucks that are interested he has it at: $11.82 / Quart. This is a $0.67 / quart cheaper than what I paid a couple weeks ago.
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I can't wait to do a UOA after a few consecutive runs to see how it is looking...
 
If there's no gas mileage difference there's no noticeable difference in friction. Dino oil in a redline bottle might provide the same comments (aka: placebo?)

That being said, that stuff looks like the perfect Canadian winter oil! However, @ 2.5 times the cost of the PP I'm currently using it's a hard sell.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
If there's no gas mileage difference there's no noticeable difference in friction. Dino oil in a redline bottle might provide the same comments (aka: placebo?)

That being said, that stuff looks like the perfect Canadian winter oil! However, @ 2.5 times the cost of the PP I'm currently using it's a hard sell.
Longtime no hear... Where you been? Anyways...

Oil is cheap and even if an oil change was $100 each time it would still be cheaper than the cost of other maintenance over the life of your vehicle in replacement parts like brakes/tires etc.

Why we choose to use a cheap oil when it is the lifeblood of our vehicles is beyond me. Not picking at you... Just making a point.

The superior performance should ultimately lead to better wear protection and increased longevity.

$100/ oil change @ 10K KM (6K miles) change intervals would only make the cost $3,000 at 300K KM's. But if it meant that your engine was in brand new like condition after that many miles and you didn't have to shell out $20-30K for a new car which would you choose?
 
10 bucks a quart with free shipping over 100 bucks. I'm gonna order some of that and their Gear Lube.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: webfors
If there's no gas mileage difference there's no noticeable difference in friction. Dino oil in a redline bottle might provide the same comments (aka: placebo?)

That being said, that stuff looks like the perfect Canadian winter oil! However, @ 2.5 times the cost of the PP I'm currently using it's a hard sell.
Longtime no hear... Where you been? Anyways...

Oil is cheap and even if an oil change was $100 each time it would still be cheaper than the cost of other maintenance over the life of your vehicle in replacement parts like brakes/tires etc.

Why we choose to use a cheap oil when it is the lifeblood of our vehicles is beyond me. Not picking at you... Just making a point.

The superior performance should ultimately lead to better wear protection and increased longevity.

$100/ oil change @ 10K KM (6K miles) change intervals would only make the cost $3,000 at 300K KM's. But if it meant that your engine was in brand new like condition after that many miles and you didn't have to shell out $20-30K for a new car which would you choose?



I'm around a couple of times a week... just too busy to post most of the time..
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I run PP @ 10k km OCI's so my cost over 300k km would be 30 x $20 (what I paid for a 4.4L jug) = $600.

If I go with RedLine 0w30 I'm looking at approximately $50 (that's not including shipping) = $1500.

Of course filters aren't calculated in. I'm pretty sure my engine at 300k km, running 10k km (6k mile) oci's is going to be in pretty good shape with PP. I'd be more worried about other parts of the car failing over time.

That being said, I'm a click away from ordering some RL 0w30.. not because it makes sense, but because I have a problem
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We all have problems... Don't think of it as costly oil, think of it as a payment plan towards a new engine which is your same engine now but just really well protected.
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'xcuse me while I go order some more Red Line. *Whips out the credit card and calls Shawn @ WGP*

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I was thinking of putting RL 0w30 in just for this winter, but I don't like switching back and forth between brands of oil....

-30 is on it's way and I love my car
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I'm running EAO's for the Red Line test so that I can compare the Amsoil SSO 0w30 and Red Line 0w30 runs side by side.

I have a case of 12 EAO's sitting in my closet to use up first if I decide to go with something else. To be honest with you I'm running these filters (not for the Red Line test) for 20K KM (12K miles) and they look new after that many miles inside and the PSI difference entering/exiting the filter is only 0.5 PSI difference at that mileage so I see no reason to change filters.

The Royal Purple filters is a filter I would like to try and NDX on here has got me 2 from his friend... I just need to get them from him.

SC
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: webfors
If there's no gas mileage difference there's no noticeable difference in friction. Dino oil in a redline bottle might provide the same comments (aka: placebo?)

That being said, that stuff looks like the perfect Canadian winter oil! However, @ 2.5 times the cost of the PP I'm currently using it's a hard sell.
Longtime no hear... Where you been? Anyways...

Oil is cheap and even if an oil change was $100 each time it would still be cheaper than the cost of other maintenance over the life of your vehicle in replacement parts like brakes/tires etc.

Why we choose to use a cheap oil when it is the lifeblood of our vehicles is beyond me. Not picking at you... Just making a point.

The superior performance should ultimately lead to better wear protection and increased longevity.

$100/ oil change @ 10K KM (6K miles) change intervals would only make the cost $3,000 at 300K KM's. But if it meant that your engine was in brand new like condition after that many miles and you didn't have to shell out $20-30K for a new car which would you choose?



Whoa, you're coming over to the dark side.
cheers3.gif


Not only that but you're thinking about the RP filters too.

Maybe we're oil brothers... or the 32 hours without sleep is getting to me lol.
 
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