Honda Civic Type R FK8; Honda Engine Type 2.0 0W20; 9307 Km / 5783 mi

I think the 0W40 is a bit too thick. I also think that 0W20 or 0W30 is enough. I take it based on recommendations here and because it is against LSPI. Maybe I could still try the new ESP 5W30, which according to VOA does not look so good, if you can judge that at all. When this season starts, I will post my impressions here.
 
the amsoil signature series 10W30 has a very good low noack value und a stable base oil. I only drive in the summer. if amsoil signature series has official specifications I would try this. but here are not so many amsoil fans, why?
 
I think the 0W40 is a bit too thick. I also think that 0W20 or 0W30 is enough. I take it based on recommendations here and because it is against LSPI. Maybe I could still try the new ESP 5W30, which according to VOA does not look so good, if you can judge that at all. When this season starts, I will post my impressions here.
So you’re saying you can predict the future performance of a motor oil based on the decomposed metallic elements shown in a $30 spectrographic analysis?
 
no, I don't think this. I cannot predict the future. But a lower knock is good for direct injection, a thicker basil is good if you only drive in the summer because you don't need a winter viscosity 0W or 5W. this engine oils need more polymer, the 10W30 maybe will come without polymer. maybe it will be better.
What is the problem with amsoil? the price is not negative for me.
 
no, I don't think this. I cannot predict the future. But a lower knock is good for direct injection, a thicker basil is good if you only drive in the summer because you don't need a winter viscosity 0W or 5W. this engine oils need more polymer, the 10W30 maybe will come without polymer. maybe it will be better.
What is the problem with amsoil? the price is not negative for me.
Lower knock and thicker basil is good, yes. And it’s a “winter viscosity”?

You have me wrong on Amsoil. I like their oils and I think they are a very good product.
 
The only thing is for me that amsoil signature series has no official specifications. What about the sealing compatibility and all other things that are checked in the oil standards? Are there also experiences regarding deposits?
 
The only thing is for me that amsoil signature series has no official specifications. What about the sealing compatibility and all other things that are checked in the oil standards? Are there also experiences regarding deposits?
not sure Amsoil high cost is justified for shorter OCI. Its good oil, but expensive
 
The only thing is for me that amsoil signature series has no official specifications. What about the sealing compatibility and all other things that are checked in the oil standards? Are there also experiences regarding deposits?
I'm generally a fan of going by specifications for assurance. However, some smaller companies I do trust. HPL, Amsoil and Red Line for example. Amsoil knows what they are doing. They've been doing this since 1972. They also have their own mechanical engine lab where they can test and develop internally. I wouldn't worry about that with Amsoil. If you can overlook some of their past marketing and pushy dealers (MLM model), they've always made good oil. In fact their current offerings are the best they've ever produced. It seems to have coincided with the mechanical engine lab. I think in the past they had to rely on SWRI more often.
 
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what's about the temperature in the turbo charger if I use thicker engine oil then recommended? Is it truth that the temperature there will be higher with a thicker engine oil then a thinner engine oil?
I don't know if the ESP X3 0W40 is too thick for the temperature in the turbocharger.
 
what's about the temperature in the turbo charger if I use thicker engine oil then recommended? Is it truth that the temperature there will be higher with a thicker engine oil then a thinner engine oil?
I don't know if the ESP X3 0W40 is too thick for the temperature in the turbocharger.
A thicker oil will flow through the turbocharger slower and therefore remove less heat, but I doubt a 0W-40 would cause undesirable effects.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but in Europe, I believe the Type R calls for 0W-20 or 5W-30, correct? Since you said you only drive it in the summer and on a lot of shorter trips, my preference would be Amsoil SS 10W-30 for the same reasons you mentioned it- low NOACK, minimal if any VII, stable base oil, and should handle fuel dilution better than a 20 grade.

There seems to be a trend of oils with lots of VII's like 0W-40 thinning out worse than, say, a 10W-30 with minimal VII when diluted with fuel, potentially because the polymers are broken down by the fuel.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but in Europe, I believe the Type R calls for 0W-20 or 5W-30, correct?
You are correct. Type R manual in Europe.

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that was my idea. But I don't know if amsoil signature series performed very well because this engine oil is without any specification.
 
Something is brewing with lawyers with 2.0T engine&fuel dilution

 
10w30 is a good viscsoity for only Summer driving. But i dont know How the amsoil Work in this Engine , how is the performance? I dont know.
 
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