And that was why I recommended a HDEO. D1300S would work great in this engine...
Please do a search.
HELP!! Passat 1.8T Sludgebucket
- Thread starter aero nut
- Start date
- Status
Please do a search.
Exactly what has the mechanic done to conclude that it's sludge? I mean, it very well may be, but it's not the only thing if all you get is a low pressure indication.
The oil pump may be faulty. It's not uncommon for these things to die. Sometimes it's because of sludge. Sometimes it's not.
The oil pressure sensor may be faulty - that's another possibility, although unlikely if you also heard unusual noises.
Did you have the car hooked up to a VAG-COM tool to see what diagnostic trouble codes were recorded? That may give you additional clues apart from just the low pressure indications.
As far as AutoRX, if the engine is seriously sludged up, I don't think AutoRX will cure this, but I suggest you contact someone from AutoRX directly to verify.
Finally, how often were you changing the oil and what care did you take of the engine (proper warm-up, cool-down procedures)? I am not trying to place any blame on you in any way. I am just curious as I also have the 1.8T engine.
From what I've concluded, the 1.8T doesn't have a inherent sludge problem...it has an inadequate oil and drain interval for intended application problem.
Haha... yup, although in Europe they also use long drain intervals for this engine and I have not heard of any sludging issues, unless it's a well-kept secret.
The problem is also with the oil itself. VWoA didn't specify that synthetic oil must be used in this engine until recently when SHTF. Under warranty, unless you brought your own synthetic oil with you, all dealers were using cheap bulk dino oil during regular maintenance visits.
The problem is also with the oil itself. VWoA didn't specify that synthetic oil must be used in this engine until recently when SHTF. Under warranty, unless you brought your own synthetic oil with you, all dealers were using cheap bulk dino oil during regular maintenance visits.
SHTF...exactly!
Use a HDEO or PCMO synthetic in this engine and you'll be fine.
Well VW is saying there is a sludge problem & my mechanic says there is one. He just put a pressure guage on it to verify the low pressure. I've read too many posts from other people with this engine to
think otherwise. Yes it could just be the pump. The first 4 oil changes were done under VW's deal in 2001 to do the scheduled maintenance free. They used
dino 20w-50. After that I used synthetic except for this last change. Even with synthetic, the oil looked really dark in just a few miles. Maybe this should have told me something. But I'm not a mechanic (though I do play one on TV) and I did maintain it per VW specs. I have a 2000 Pontiac 6000 that I maintain as an experiment. It has 250,000 Miles on it and I change the oil (dino)
think otherwise. Yes it could just be the pump. The first 4 oil changes were done under VW's deal in 2001 to do the scheduled maintenance free. They used
dino 20w-50. After that I used synthetic except for this last change. Even with synthetic, the oil looked really dark in just a few miles. Maybe this should have told me something. But I'm not a mechanic (though I do play one on TV) and I did maintain it per VW specs. I have a 2000 Pontiac 6000 that I maintain as an experiment. It has 250,000 Miles on it and I change the oil (dino)
every 5 years or 35,000 mi. which ever comes first.
It has 250,000 mi and engine is strong. Everything
else on the car is shot but the engine is fine. Yea
these new high output engines are different, I wouldn't do that to my Passat, but when you maintain them to specs and they sludge in 70,000 miles whos fault is it. They have admitted a design flaw and made small changes to correct it (new filter).
Wavinwayne, have you taken your pan off yet???
It has 250,000 mi and engine is strong. Everything
else on the car is shot but the engine is fine. Yea
these new high output engines are different, I wouldn't do that to my Passat, but when you maintain them to specs and they sludge in 70,000 miles whos fault is it. They have admitted a design flaw and made small changes to correct it (new filter).
Wavinwayne, have you taken your pan off yet???
Are you listening aero nut?
The 1.8T doesn't have an inherent sludge problem. The issue is that oils of inferior quality (for this engine) were used on OCI's that were too long. Are many of these engines sludging up? YES...
I thought the 6000 was produced from 1988-1991? You must realize there is a big difference in the lubrication needed for optimal performance in a 2.8 or 3.1L V6 vs. a 1.8L turbo I4.
20w-50...ouch! How long were your OCI's? What synthetic did you use after that? What OCI did you use? Please don't equate oil darkness with dirtiness or need for change...
The 1.8T doesn't have an inherent sludge problem. The issue is that oils of inferior quality (for this engine) were used on OCI's that were too long. Are many of these engines sludging up? YES...
I thought the 6000 was produced from 1988-1991? You must realize there is a big difference in the lubrication needed for optimal performance in a 2.8 or 3.1L V6 vs. a 1.8L turbo I4.
20w-50...ouch! How long were your OCI's? What synthetic did you use after that? What OCI did you use? Please don't equate oil darkness with dirtiness or need for change...
I should have said this earlier: I have a GTI, not a Passat. Dropping the pan on the GTI is about a 30 min. job.
VW...that's whose fault it is. They specified an oil of inadequate quality for this engine and they got burnt.
Could you link me to (or post) something where VW admits a design flaw with the engine itself?
If you can pick up a 10w-30 HDEO in your area, then go for it...otherwise, 15w-40 is the way to go.
Jelly, the problem is not with all 1.8T engines, just the VW Passat & an Audi model I can't recall right now. The Passat's engine is mounted 90° differently from other VW's & it's oil capacity is 3.9 qts. vs. 4.8 for VW's like the Golf & Jetta.
If no sludge is present, a larger filter & VW approved synthetic oil seem to keep these engines happy.
Thanks Brian, but you get this in many boards. Yes
VW admitted to a problem. And yes, some sound advice
would be nice should anyone be in the know. Right now the oil circulatory system is highly comprimised and I'm not sure any agent is going to get in there to do any cleaning before the "Big Bang". I may be just SOL regardless. But there may be some 1.8 driver out there who used ARX and fixed the problem or whatever.
VW admitted to a problem. And yes, some sound advice
would be nice should anyone be in the know. Right now the oil circulatory system is highly comprimised and I'm not sure any agent is going to get in there to do any cleaning before the "Big Bang". I may be just SOL regardless. But there may be some 1.8 driver out there who used ARX and fixed the problem or whatever.
For what its worth, VW is not alone in making it difficult to remove the pan. Many cars have complicated procedures from removing the oil pan. Its not an easy job on a Mercedes, Dodge Cummins, etc.... On my last Mercedes you either remove the engine or undo the driveshaft and tranny mount to pivot it back and then you take the oil pan off one step at a time... turning the crank to clear the counterweights on the crank. Install in reverse.
Brian
Brian
Jelly is just trying to obtain some information that has not been answered.
From reading all of the above, this what I know.
Bought the car in 2001. Let dealer do the first 4 oil changes with 20W50. I assume every 5,000 miles. So at 20,000 miles you switched to a synthetic oil.
Here is the question: What brand and weight synthetic oil did you use, and how often did you change it. Or did you mechanic change it for you.
My advise would be, for a $9,000 engine, I would hire a good lawyer. It would be worth it. There is enough information out there to give a good lawyer some good ammunition.
From reading all of the above, this what I know.
Bought the car in 2001. Let dealer do the first 4 oil changes with 20W50. I assume every 5,000 miles. So at 20,000 miles you switched to a synthetic oil.
Here is the question: What brand and weight synthetic oil did you use, and how often did you change it. Or did you mechanic change it for you.
My advise would be, for a $9,000 engine, I would hire a good lawyer. It would be worth it. There is enough information out there to give a good lawyer some good ammunition.
What do you guys think about this as a possibility for aero nut:
1. Do an engine flush with something harsh like Gunk engine flush.
2. Immediately drain oil, replace oil filter & re-fill with HDEO. (Rotella, Delo, etc.) This would basically be a flushing oil.
3. Do a very short run of maybe 100-200 miles.
4. Drain oil, replace oil filter with oversized VW OEM filter #068-115-561B, & begin an Auto-rx flush, using HDEO.
Keep the faith aero nut, we're trying our best here.....
What do you guys think? Is my idea worth it's weight in HDEO?
1. Do an engine flush with something harsh like Gunk engine flush.
2. Immediately drain oil, replace oil filter & re-fill with HDEO. (Rotella, Delo, etc.) This would basically be a flushing oil.
3. Do a very short run of maybe 100-200 miles.
4. Drain oil, replace oil filter with oversized VW OEM filter #068-115-561B, & begin an Auto-rx flush, using HDEO.
Keep the faith aero nut, we're trying our best here.....
What do you guys think? Is my idea worth it's weight in HDEO?
Sounds like a good plan to me. At this stage it won't hurt anything.
Here's a method I used to help desludge an engine for a friend. YMMV. After the engine is at operating temps, park the car so that the oil drain plug is at the lowest point on the oil pan. Drain the oil and replace the filter (ST or equivalent) while you there. Let it drain for about an hour. Replace the drain plug and fill the engine with kerosene. Use the same amount of kerosene as you would oil for a normal oil change. Let the car sit at least over night. (Do not start it under any circumstance while the kerosene is in there!) Next day drain it, and after it gets down to just drips, dump one more quart of kerosene with the drain plug off to help flush out whatever you can. Replace drain plug and fill it with the proper amount of something like Delvac 1300 S 15w40. Run it gently for about an hour, keeping an eye on the oil/temp gauges for signs of any trouble. Now change the filter and oil again with the above oil, and start the AutoRX process. It'll probably take at least two of the AutoRX cycles to get close to normal again. Good luck.
- Status
Similar threads
