Aeronut, have you decided what oil you're going to run after you're all done with ARXing it?
HELP!! Passat 1.8T Sludgebucket
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VW/Audi engines should have at least 5 bar of oil pressure (approx 73.5 psi) at anything over 3000 rpms - even with a 30wt oil.
I'd say you have a significant # of bearing wear and I'd recommend using a 5w-40 if not a 15w-50 in this vehicle, at least for warmer weather.
I'd highly recommend running Mobil Delvac 1, 5w-40 in this application....
Ted
I'd say you have a significant # of bearing wear and I'd recommend using a 5w-40 if not a 15w-50 in this vehicle, at least for warmer weather.
I'd highly recommend running Mobil Delvac 1, 5w-40 in this application....
Ted
First of all the 40 psi reading at 65 mph does not correlate with over 3,000 rpm. At that speed the engine is loping alone about 2200-2300 rpm.
Right now I'm using M1 5w-40. If I keep the car I will do another ARX treatment. Maybe that would further inc. pressure. I'm using the new large filter for this car to.
Right now I'm using M1 5w-40. If I keep the car I will do another ARX treatment. Maybe that would further inc. pressure. I'm using the new large filter for this car to.
I guess I'm used to the gearing on my three speed automatic in the old Audi 100.
Oil pressure of 20 psi/1000 rpms sounds pretty solid, so I'd say you dodged a bullet. I'm not at all surprised the Auto RX worked after testing the stuff for three years. The two ounces I added to the Pentosin power steering fluid in my Audi loosened up a bunch of rubber particles from the old seals/hoses within 50 miles of use. I had to keep doing partial fluid changes and cleaning the filter mesh screen in the reservoir until this process finally stopped.
Just a note of caution ...if you intend to use Auto RX in a high mileage automatic transmission, I'd drop the pan,clean it and install a new transmission filter first!!!
Oil pressure of 20 psi/1000 rpms sounds pretty solid, so I'd say you dodged a bullet. I'm not at all surprised the Auto RX worked after testing the stuff for three years. The two ounces I added to the Pentosin power steering fluid in my Audi loosened up a bunch of rubber particles from the old seals/hoses within 50 miles of use. I had to keep doing partial fluid changes and cleaning the filter mesh screen in the reservoir until this process finally stopped.
Just a note of caution ...if you intend to use Auto RX in a high mileage automatic transmission, I'd drop the pan,clean it and install a new transmission filter first!!!
I never add anything to an auto tranny. AT design is a very demanding field and the transmissions are designed around the fluid. Adding anything can be a crap shoot. Not to say it will do damage, but it's not like adding something to an engine. Very few people are REALLY skilled at these gizmos. After talking to an AT design engineer at Ford, I realized there was more going on than I could ever understand and I learned of several situations where the addition of a simple additive could really reduce tranny life.
My last car, a 1995 Honda Civic DX auto tranny started running crappy after auto-rx. Do not run it on honda autos as there is no replaceable screen! I bet it was that because when I shut down and restarted it would run fine for a bit (until it picked up the crud again?).
But then honda autos suck, especially the new ones fail so early! (Friend at 30k on a 2002, ex gf at 40k on a 2001!)
But then honda autos suck, especially the new ones fail so early! (Friend at 30k on a 2002, ex gf at 40k on a 2001!)
But you bought an Allante??!!
After reading Eric Peterman's post on dropping the pan he sent me the instructions on how he did it. I just go the pan removed last night and inspected it. Half way through the process (2 hrs) I started to second guess my 'learned' theory that the pump clogged by sludge and "turbo tirds." Then, during the process I removed the down pipe from what appeared to come from the turbo and opened an somewhat nice sized hole to peek into the oil pan. I used a small flashlight and twisted my body to peek through the hold to find the side of the oil pan splattered with "gunk." Although, the hole showed only a part of one wall of the oil pan, yet bigger than the oil plug hole, I gained more confidence in the theory. This may be help full for anyone questioning their oil pan.....if so, next time you change the oil remove oil downpipe and take a look. I'll post the results of the whole procedure when I get her back together!
scattered,
This might help you Auto-Rx liguefies hydro carbons good luck.
Daryl
This might help you Auto-Rx liguefies hydro carbons good luck.
Daryl
aero-nut: Glad everything worked out for you. I have an 01 TT with the 1.8T AMU engine. I only have 43,000+ miles on it but I will definitly be keeping an eye on it. I have used nothing but synthetic since I have had it and she runs like a top. 5 quarts of M1 T&S 5w-40. Soon to be switching to Shell Rotella t synthetic 5w-40. I like the extreme cleaning ability of this oil. I really like to keep the internals clean and a good "diesel" oil works great for me.
Ted why D1 and not your Amsoil 5W40?
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