Glad I don't rely on shops for basic service.

[Bailes1992]

Just leave them out. They are only need to keep the rotor from falling off as the vehicle rolls down the assembly line.

Keeps the disc in the correct orientation to the hub also for installation of the wheel bolts. I'd rather have them than not.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

Keeps the disc in the correct orientation to the hub also for installation of the wheel bolts. I'd rather have them than not.

I had to drill my some of my screws out. First one came out with impact screwdriver. Second one broke the bit, so I drilled them out.

Easy enough to put back in the same orientation and use lug nuts to hold on while finish working.

But to each their own

 

[Bailes1992]

I had to drill my some of my screws out. First one came out with impact screwdriver. Second one broke the bit, so I drilled them out.

Easy enough to put back in the same orientation and use lug nuts to hold on while finish working.

But to each their own

I understand if they've broken or seized, but I wouldn't bin them for the sake of it. I just make sure I lather them in anti-seize before fitting.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Don't techs working at shops clean and lubricate those pins as part of normal brake service? Now I'll take apart both sides and lube them, as well as the shims and clips as I don't see any lube was used.

My last boss was all like "Why"? "All that does is attract dust".
(Me in my mind} "Yeah, at least I don't just slap stuff together any old freaking way like you do"!

 

[atikovi]

My last boss was all like "Why"? "All that does is attract dust".

How does it attract dust when the pin is inside the caliper bracket and sealed with a rubber boot?

 

[The Critic]

@The Critic is silicone paste like the 3M acceptable to use in these said Toyota pins or is the lithium Toyota stuff the only thing that should be used ? Thanks

Silicone should be fine, but the Toyota stuff is very very thin and that might be a good thing....since some of those pins fit pretty tightly.

 

[Accent Abuser]

The factory toyota pin grease dries and causes the pins to stick often, their lithium based grease is some of the worst for slide pins

Yeah I often have to clean out the bores the slide pins ride in with a brush, penetrating oil, and brake parts cleaner before regreasing them or nothing slides/fits correctly because of the hardened grease/rust mixture.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

The dealer revolves around selling service people don't need, not repairing cars for free. auto repair places makes the most money with the least effort by selling services that require less skill , hence their reliance on selling things like cooling system and transmission flushes and oil changes. You dont make any money driving the car ( performance issues) and internal engine repair is too much work, so you want to sell the and repair the easy stuff like brakes, suspension AC, sell alignments, nitrogen in tires etc ... just the way it is.

This may be one of the most HONEST statements I've read on BITOG. 15 years ago, I would send my wife to the local dealer for oil changes & maintenance, on a car new enough it was under warranty. Time & time & time again, she would come home with a 5-6 page color printout of $700-$1K worth of stuff that is printed in RED, dealer says this needs to be addressed now, the car is "unsafe" to drive, brakes needs replacing....They were just throwing a bunch of stuff (I'm being nice) against the wall to see what would stick.
I'd chock the wheels, grab a jack, pull a wheel and look, the pads are LESS than 50% worn, the coolant needs flushed, (I have a dated receipt, THEY did it less than 4 months ago), transmission is overdue for service, (do they not keep records, they did it), the serpentine belt needs replaced (no it doesn't, it's only got 20K on it and looks new). The proverbial straw that broke the camel's back was when I was working 8 hours from home and my wife called and said she had a burned out brake light bulb; I told her to take it to the dealer (we'd already spent a few $K there that year), she came home with a $75 bill for replacing a light bulb (that required no tools). I could pop the trunk, remove the PLASTIC thumb screws, twist out the bulb & install a new $3 bulb in less than 5 minutes. When I got home, I took this receipt and paid the dealer a visit, told them this was highway robbery (this was 2007), they would not back off on price at all; I told them to their face "this is the last money you get from me."
This is 2023, I have Youtube, BITOG, and Facebook fan pages as resources. I haven't been to a dealer service department since 2007, and I've learned some new words (stealerships from BITOG). I'm sure there are honest folks around, just not in my neck of the woods.
The only difference between a "car dealer" and a drug dealer is that, supposedly, the car dealer is selling a legitimate product. Both of them will look at you in the eye, smile at you, and lie straight to your face. They will steal from you, stab you in the back, and sell their mother down the river for a dollar.
I thank the Good Lord for places like BITOG; I've learned much from this site and treasured users like Trav, The Critic, Molakule, and several others whose usernames slip me at the moment.

 

[Cherrybomb]

This may be one of the most HONEST statements I've read on BITOG. 15 years ago, I would send my wife to the local dealer for oil changes & maintenance, on a car new enough it was under warranty. Time & time & time again, she would come home with a 5-6 page color printout of $700-$1K worth of stuff that is printed in RED, dealer says this needs to be addressed now, the car is "unsafe" to drive, brakes needs replacing....They were just throwing a bunch of stuff (I'm being nice) against the wall to see what would stick.
I'd chock the wheels, grab a jack, pull a wheel and look, the pads are LESS than 50% worn, the coolant needs flushed, (I have a dated receipt, THEY did it less than 4 months ago), transmission is overdue for service, (do they not keep records, they did it), the serpentine belt needs replaced (no it doesn't, it's only got 20K on it and looks new). The proverbial straw that broke the camel's back was when I was working 8 hours from home and my wife called and said she had a burned out brake light bulb; I told her to take it to the dealer (we'd already spent a few $K there that year), she came home with a $75 bill for replacing a light bulb (that required no tools). I could pop the trunk, remove the PLASTIC thumb screws, twist out the bulb & install a new $3 bulb in less than 5 minutes. When I got home, I took this receipt and paid the dealer a visit, told them this was highway robbery (this was 2007), they would not back off on price at all; I told them to their face "this is the last money you get from me."
This is 2023, I have Youtube, BITOG, and Facebook fan pages as resources. I haven't been to a dealer service department since 2007, and I've learned some new words (stealerships from BITOG). I'm sure there are honest folks around, just not in my neck of the woods.
The only difference between a "car dealer" and a drug dealer is that, supposedly, the car dealer is selling a legitimate product. Both of them will look at you in the eye, smile at you, and lie straight to your face. They will steal from you, stab you in the back, and sell their mother down the river for a dollar.
I thank the Good Lord for places like BITOG; I've learned much from this site and treasured users like Trav, The Critic, Molakule, and several others whose usernames slip me at the moment.

Thanks for spending the time on your reply,we all learn and its a big part of why we come here.I keep extensive and quick to figure out what I've done on my car.Our two cars are newer,under warrenty so I go.I don't want my wife fighting off the upcharges.I write a note on the maintenance on paper.When they try to upcharge,I respond,I tell them,put it back in your computer.I mark my air and cabin filter,that way they don't bring out somebody elses filter.I have taught them,don't mess with me,thanks in part,to every one who responds here,keep up the good work

 

[The motor guy]

This may be one of the most HONEST statements I've read on BITOG. 15 years ago, I would send my wife to the local dealer for oil changes & maintenance, on a car new enough it was under warranty. Time & time & time again, she would come home with a 5-6 page color printout of $700-$1K worth of stuff that is printed in RED, dealer says this needs to be addressed now, the car is "unsafe" to drive, brakes needs replacing....They were just throwing a bunch of stuff (I'm being nice) against the wall to see what would stick.
I'd chock the wheels, grab a jack, pull a wheel and look, the pads are LESS than 50% worn, the coolant needs flushed, (I have a dated receipt, THEY did it less than 4 months ago), transmission is overdue for service, (do they not keep records, they did it), the serpentine belt needs replaced (no it doesn't, it's only got 20K on it and looks new). The proverbial straw that broke the camel's back was when I was working 8 hours from home and my wife called and said she had a burned out brake light bulb; I told her to take it to the dealer (we'd already spent a few $K there that year), she came home with a $75 bill for replacing a light bulb (that required no tools). I could pop the trunk, remove the PLASTIC thumb screws, twist out the bulb & install a new $3 bulb in less than 5 minutes. When I got home, I took this receipt and paid the dealer a visit, told them this was highway robbery (this was 2007), they would not back off on price at all; I told them to their face "this is the last money you get from me."
This is 2023, I have Youtube, BITOG, and Facebook fan pages as resources. I haven't been to a dealer service department since 2007, and I've learned some new words (stealerships from BITOG). I'm sure there are honest folks around, just not in my neck of the woods.
The only difference between a "car dealer" and a drug dealer is that, supposedly, the car dealer is selling a legitimate product. Both of them will look at you in the eye, smile at you, and lie straight to your face. They will steal from you, stab you in the back, and sell their mother down the river for a dollar.
I thank the Good Lord for places like BITOG; I've learned much from this site and treasured users like Trav, The Critic, Molakule, and several others whose usernames slip me at the moment.

That was an insult to your wife then. If it's so easy she can do it. Or just drive with a burned out tail light until you can fix it. I've had cops behind me with a third brake light out and they don't usually care about stuff like that.

 

[anderson]

sil glyde or nothing. been that way for years

 

[JHZR2]

Periodic caliper pin clean and lube goes a long way.

I’ve never done it other than at pad replacement time. And that’s usually after 100k miles.

We have wet and salt. Maybe we’re just lucky.

 

[The Critic]

I’ve never done it other than at pad replacement time. And that’s usually after 100k miles.

We have wet and salt. Maybe we’re just lucky.

Agreed. It is one of the most unnecessary services. On the other hand, cleaning rust from the brackets is far more important.

 

[ford46guy]

The rear brakes on my GS 350 will weld themselves. One of the pins is larger and very vulnerable. Even high heat couldn't get them to release. Definitely greasing them every year now. A few years ago I was able to get a set new Lexus calipers for under $200. Almost cheaper than reman.
This causes all weird symptoms in the snow because the stability and traction control is tied to the rear brakes working right. It is AWD but RWD based so no brakes in the rear - not good.

 

[JeffKeryk]

The rear brakes on my GS 350 will weld themselves. One of the pins is larger and very vulnerable. Even high heat couldn't get them to release. Definitely greasing them every year now. A few years ago I was able to get a set new Lexus calipers for under $200. Almost cheaper than reman.
This causes all weird symptoms in the snow because the stability and traction control is tied to the rear brakes working right. It is AWD but RWD based so no brakes in the rear - not good.

The F Sport RWD offers horrible brake squeal. There is a TSB that replaces the Textar pads; they only squeal when cold for maybe 2 blocks.

 

[ford46guy]

The F Sport RWD offers horrible brake squeal. There is a TSB that replaces the Textar pads; they only squeal when cold for maybe 2 blocks.

Something always squeaks when cold on the GS350. Possibly rust buildup on the rotor or the pads. I tried cleaning everything up but it came back. Not safety because the parts look great with plenty of life.
I believe it is Toyota parts, 5 years old though. I don't drive it much but very embarrassing when I do! Probably will go with a premium aftermarket soon.

 

[The Critic]

premium aftermarket soon.

That is an oxymoron.

 

[researcher]

The rear brakes on my GS 350 will weld themselves. One of the pins is larger and very vulnerable. Even high heat couldn't get them to release. Definitely greasing them every year now. A few years ago I was able to get a set new Lexus calipers for under $200. Almost cheaper than reman.
This causes all weird symptoms in the snow because the stability and traction control is tied to the rear brakes working right. It is AWD but RWD based so no brakes in the rear - not good.

That is exactly what happens on my tC, brakes need to be lubed once a year. I've seen other Toyota vehicles seize up if not lubed once a year, I think it was a Tacoma or Highlander back in 2010 or so. Mine never seized but got very, very dry on the sliding pins!! I did post that already, had to jump in and tell you, you're not alone in this.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

Doing a once over and some maintenance on the 2020 Corolla I bought recently. Front brake pads and rotors are recent, but the slide pins are tight and sticking. Don't techs working at shops clean and lubricate those pins as part of normal brake service? Now I'll take apart both sides and lube them, as well as the shims and clips as I don't see any lube was used.

View attachment 185643

No, it it does not involve a computer, codes, expensive parts, they have no idea what to do. If it involves a wrench, watch out.

 

[eljefino]

I hear what you’re saying and you’re not completely wrong IMO.
With that said, I feel that a tech that does a half-assed job on a customer’s vehicle because they feel like they’re underpaid would probably do the same thing if they’re paid well.
Ethics come into play here, a tech with pride in their work will do the best job they can regardless of their pay. It’s up to them to change their work and/or pay situation. If they don’t like it, move on.
The family mini-van that hauls the kids around doesn’t need half-assed work done to it because the tech is unhappy about his pay,…that’s not the customer’s fault.

Cheers!

This is true, but in any employment situation you have good people and bad. The good ones, incredibly, find greener pastures. If the pay in a flat rate shop were better there'd be fewer greener pastures and more good mechanics sticking around, increasing the average customer's odds of finding one.