G-Oil 5w30, 2005 Ford Explorer 4.0 5k
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Wow, sheared out of grade big time, wonder if its a 'Stone issue or for real. Not serviceable as a 30 grade. Oils have to stay in grade through a reasonable OCI.
pure garbage another attempt to pull the greenie blamket over us!!
Originally Posted By: boxcartommie22
pure garbage another attempt to pull the greenie blamket over us!!
Really? You're going to conclude that the oil is garbage based on this one UOA, its low viscosity numbers, and the low TBN? Despite the other UOA which was run twice as long in a Volvo Turbo with 240K on it and produced pretty good results? OK, that sounds logical.
pure garbage another attempt to pull the greenie blamket over us!!
Really? You're going to conclude that the oil is garbage based on this one UOA, its low viscosity numbers, and the low TBN? Despite the other UOA which was run twice as long in a Volvo Turbo with 240K on it and produced pretty good results? OK, that sounds logical.
So in just 5k its lost its tbn and its now a 0w 20? not too impressive. If i had a car that i used 20w oil in it, i might use the oil for 5 k if it were super cheap, like house brand cheap. Otherwise i'll pass.
lots of funny comments considering you haven't mentioned your driving habits; I think some folks want your UOA to fit there preconceived ideas, whatever they may be.
So...what were your driving habits on this UOA? If it's a lot of short trips, it seems pretty good; if it's all hwy, it looks a lot less good, at least to my eyes. And how is this particular engine normally on oil?
So...what were your driving habits on this UOA? If it's a lot of short trips, it seems pretty good; if it's all hwy, it looks a lot less good, at least to my eyes. And how is this particular engine normally on oil?
My trips are usually in the 5-20 minutes with about a 35-40% highway time. I have never had a UOA done before but I have owned this Explorer since 2005 and have run either M1 or Quaker State Synthetic the whole time.
UOA's don't support using this oil.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: spasm3
So in just 5k its lost its tbn and its now a 0w 20?
This oil would definitely not be a 0w20 right now, it's more than likely turned into a 10w20! There is no way it's cold cranking properties have improved in order for it to qualify as a 0w oil.
So in just 5k its lost its tbn and its now a 0w 20?
This oil would definitely not be a 0w20 right now, it's more than likely turned into a 10w20! There is no way it's cold cranking properties have improved in order for it to qualify as a 0w oil.
Originally Posted By: walk23
UOA's don't support using this oil.
How so? Please explain. You must know of a source containing a bunch of bad UOAs to make a statement like that. Either that or your statement has no factual support. That's where I'm betting my chips.
UOA's don't support using this oil.
How so? Please explain. You must know of a source containing a bunch of bad UOAs to make a statement like that. Either that or your statement has no factual support. That's where I'm betting my chips.
OP says no other UOA has been done in this vehicle. How does one know there isn't "something" going on with the motor?
Seems a condemnation of the oil is a bit hasty without a basis for that decision other than a coin toss.
Seems a condemnation of the oil is a bit hasty without a basis for that decision other than a coin toss.
Not a great oil, but not bad either. I'd use it with no problem. My Tacoma GRE1 V6 engine is hard on synthetics too. What makes the G-oil special is that its FAR.
^You know, you're quite right.
Basic UOa like this to 'definitively' say the oil is good or bad? I thought basic UOAs weren't truly for comparing oils side by side, and where is the contender in this app?
It is a valid point.
...and so what if G-Oil is a 5,000 max oil in the end? If no more crude was ever used and oils that didn't depend on it burned cleaner/reduced environmental strains, wouldn't settling for 5,000 as the 'new' 3,000' be worth it for starters anyway?
Just a thought is all.
Basic UOa like this to 'definitively' say the oil is good or bad? I thought basic UOAs weren't truly for comparing oils side by side, and where is the contender in this app?
It is a valid point.
...and so what if G-Oil is a 5,000 max oil in the end? If no more crude was ever used and oils that didn't depend on it burned cleaner/reduced environmental strains, wouldn't settling for 5,000 as the 'new' 3,000' be worth it for starters anyway?
Just a thought is all.
Over-hyped oil not worth the cost. Once the newness wears off and realization sets in it will be a old fad. Better cheaper oils exist.
Originally Posted By: walk23
Over-hyped oil not worth the cost. Once the newness wears off and realization sets in it will be a old fad. Better cheaper oils exist.
Not worth the cost? Maybe the regular price, but with the FAR rebate deal, it's definitely worth the $2.08 in sales tax and the stamp for the rebate for 5 quarts.
Over-hyped oil not worth the cost. Once the newness wears off and realization sets in it will be a old fad. Better cheaper oils exist.
Not worth the cost? Maybe the regular price, but with the FAR rebate deal, it's definitely worth the $2.08 in sales tax and the stamp for the rebate for 5 quarts.
I'm thinking the iron number would be lower than 20 if the oil was a little thicker. You
need to have a certain amount of viscosity for the oil to actually STAY on the parts.
need to have a certain amount of viscosity for the oil to actually STAY on the parts.
Both of the UOA's are not that horrible. The real concern that everyone was having was more along the lines of the oil destroying their engine, not if it will produce a average at best UOA.
The company is just taking off, and they just got approved for a revised 5w-30 and a brand new 5w-20 weight through API.
I will continue purchasing it regardless of the price(within reason of course, it is under 30 per 5 qts so it is reasonable to me), it is still comparable to other synthetics (price wise)and best of all isn't made of fossil fuel and is a domestic product. I realize that your fuel use will topple the amount of oil saved from doing this oil change, yet that attitude neglects to realize the cumulative effect if a mass of vehicles changed their oil with this it will have a much larger reduction in a peoples consumption of this resource.
Give it time, as long as the company stays on its feet I feel the oil will be tweaked and producing a product that can crush the other big synthetic names. Fossil fuel based oil didn't get where it is overnight, and this product isn't blowing up engines so give it a chance. After all, the two UOA's as of yet are fine and don't suggest a grenading engine.
The company is just taking off, and they just got approved for a revised 5w-30 and a brand new 5w-20 weight through API.
I will continue purchasing it regardless of the price(within reason of course, it is under 30 per 5 qts so it is reasonable to me), it is still comparable to other synthetics (price wise)and best of all isn't made of fossil fuel and is a domestic product. I realize that your fuel use will topple the amount of oil saved from doing this oil change, yet that attitude neglects to realize the cumulative effect if a mass of vehicles changed their oil with this it will have a much larger reduction in a peoples consumption of this resource.
Give it time, as long as the company stays on its feet I feel the oil will be tweaked and producing a product that can crush the other big synthetic names. Fossil fuel based oil didn't get where it is overnight, and this product isn't blowing up engines so give it a chance. After all, the two UOA's as of yet are fine and don't suggest a grenading engine.
I will put G-oil in my car for next OCI,over the winter for 5k and some kreen. Also this oil will go to my Fathers truck which is easy hwy driven, next spring, for 10k. Don't see any problem using it, FAR makes it even better. Will do UOA, but it will be not accurate,since kreen and prob top off will be with 5w-20 while it is cold.
Hi,
I used this oil on my 96 Lincoln Continental (155k) and it looks good to me so far. I was just hoping it's not bad on the engine. With all the posts here, I'm convinced it's okay for the engine and at the most I may have to change the oil more frequently, which is fine for a FAR oil.
Since it was FAR, I stacked a few jars, do these oils have any shelf life? Is it safe to use it over the next couple of years?
Between, I just found this link, don't know what this means!
comment on G-Oil
I used this oil on my 96 Lincoln Continental (155k) and it looks good to me so far. I was just hoping it's not bad on the engine. With all the posts here, I'm convinced it's okay for the engine and at the most I may have to change the oil more frequently, which is fine for a FAR oil.
Since it was FAR, I stacked a few jars, do these oils have any shelf life? Is it safe to use it over the next couple of years?
Between, I just found this link, don't know what this means!
comment on G-Oil
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