2024 Subaru OBW 2.4L Turbo | 0w20 Factory Fill Oil | 1942 miles on oil & car

[Robvette]

The first oil change is supposed to be at 6 months or 6000 miles. At 7 months we still didn’t even have 2000 miles but I changed the oil and did this UOA.

Recommended oil is 0w20. Subaru says if that’s not available using 5w30 is acceptable. If a thicker oil is acceptable / will not void the warranty, I always opt for it.

I used a Subaru oil filter:

Mobil 1 5w30 Extended Performance Oil:

And I looked at the data sheet and I was surprised that the pour point of the 5w30 is -33 and the 10w30 is -45.

Here’s the UOA.


I’m going to do another oil change in 6 months, and then I’ll go to annual changes.

 

[twX]

High silicon and copper are normal on these engines during break-in, though I've never seen silicon as high as 539 ppm. Bits of silicone sealant can sometimes break off and clog the oil pickup screen on theses engines. Since your Si is so high, maybe it's more likely you have this issue. I'd put a boroscope through the drain hole to check it out.

The Whip City Wrencher youtube channel compared some Subaru oil filters. The black Tokyo Roki Filters made in Japan seem to be better than the ones made in Indonesia. PurolatorOne filters have the proper bypass rating and are a good choice for these cars.

 

[Robvette]

High silicon and copper are normal on these engines during break-in, though I've never seen silicon as high as 539 ppm. Bits of silicone sealant can sometimes break off and clog the oil pickup screen on theses engines. Since your Si is so high, maybe it's more likely you have this issue. I'd put a boroscope through the drain hole to check it out.

The Whip City Wrencher youtube channel compared some Subaru oil filters. The black Tokyo Roki Filters made in Japan seem to be better than the ones made in Indonesia. PurolatorOne filters have the proper bypass rating and are a good choice for these cars.

This guys silicon was quite high too:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2023-subaru-wrx-factory-fill-and-1st-change-uoas.376910/ tho not 539.

I’ll see what happens at the next change.

Thanks for the info on the Purolator filter. 99% at 26 microns is solid!

 

[fantastic]

Yep, Copper & Silicon is elevated. Good that you dumped it. Does Subaru have an oil spec for this engine?

 

[Jetronic]

Holy Moly!!

And Boron is exceptionally high aswell. In fact so is phosphorous

This is not your run of the mill 0W-20

 

[Jetronic]

And I really like that Mobil1 10W-30. Since I have no use for very cold temperature performance, that would be my choice. Would love to see a Noack figure on it, likely around 5%. And an oxidation value. I suspect it's mainly a PAO/ester blend with little or no VII.

 

[Bud]

Since Subaru wants me to bring in my car every 6 months for the first two years, for oil and filter change and tire rotation, that is what I plan on doing. This service will cost me nothing out of my pocket, but I do find it strange since I only put about 1500 miles on the car in 6 months. I can see the first will get rid of a lot of assembly crap, but by the time I get to the last couple it seems good oil will be dumped.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Holy Moly!!

It's from the assembly lube most likely.

 

[Robvette]

And I really like that Mobil1 10W-30. Since I have no use for very cold temperature performance, that would be my choice.

I find it interesting that the 0w20 and the 10w30 have identical pour points:

 

[Jetronic]

It's from the assembly lube most likely.

Have not seen it show up in any other factory fills though.

 

[kschachn]

I find it interesting that the 0w20 and the 10w30 have identical pour points:

Pretty good illustration of what pour point means and does not mean.

 

[kschachn]

Yep, Copper & Silicon is elevated. Good that you dumped it. Does Subaru have an oil spec for this engine?

What would have happened if it were left in?

 

[Artem]

What would have happened if it were left in?

all those bits of copper and silicon will keep making loops around the BRAND NEW ENGINE for no reason at all.

You don’t think it’s healthier for the engine to flush out break-in particles???

We strive to find THE BEST oil filtration to keep the oil as clean as possible, to lessen engine wear but allowing break-in / assembly crap to float around the engine for thousands of miles is perfectly fine and dandy???

Doesn’t make sense to me.

 

[Artem]

Since Subaru wants me to bring in my car every 6 months for the first two years, for oil and filter change and tire rotation, that is what I plan on doing. This service will cost me nothing out of my pocket, but I do find it strange since I only put about 1500 miles on the car in 6 months. I can see the first will get rid of a lot of assembly crap, but by the time I get to the last couple it seems good oil will be dumped.

YOU only drove 1,500 miles in 6 months. Everyone else would have done 6,000 miles and obviously need an oil change.

The second, third and even 4th oil change will STILL be flushing out break-in particles, so it’s not a waste.

What is a waste is having a brand new car and barely driving it. but I applaud you for saving it for the second owner, who will get a low mileage car and Finally DRIVE IT properly.

 

[kschachn]

all those bits of copper and silicon will keep making loops around the BRAND NEW ENGINE for no reason at all.

You don’t think it’s healthier for the engine to flush out break-in particles???

We strive to find THE BEST oil filtration to keep the oil as clean as possible, to lessen engine wear but allowing break-in / assembly crap to float around the engine for thousands of miles is perfectly fine and dandy???

Doesn’t make sense to me.

Well first off the silicon and the copper in that spectrographic analysis are not “bits” they are in solution. And second they are not causing wear unless the silicon is coming from a bad air filter and pretty significant SiO2 ingestion.

What you see on a UOA isn’t what’s causing a problem.

 

[Chris142]

Holy Moly!!

And Boron is exceptionally high aswell. In fact so is phosphorous

This is not your run of the mill 0W-20

Wonder if it's assembly lube or a break in oil?

 

[fantastic]

Wonder if it's assembly lube or a break in oil?

Lake speed had a video where they found the rings didn't seat as well with high amounts of Molybdenum. Would be interesting to find Break-in oil on VOA to see how much they put inside.

 

[Artem]

Well first off the silicon and the copper in that spectrographic analysis are not “bits” they are in solution. And second they are not causing wear unless the silicon is coming from a bad air filter and pretty significant SiO2 ingestion.

What you see on a UOA isn’t what’s causing a problem.

Exactly my point… the oil is currently carrying along with it, extra copper & excess silicon byproducts while on its way thru the tight engine clearances.

On a normal, sunny day, you’d want an oil as clean as possible with single digit wear rates to brag about on your UOA.

You can achieve this QUICKLY via several short interval oil changes to flush the block of foreign matter or drag it out SLOWLY over 10s of thousands of miles before going thru a few oil changes to FINALLY have a clean engine with clean oil to begin building a UOA trend with after several years worth of “break-in” driving.

 

[Bud]

YOU only drove 1,500 miles in 6 months. Everyone else would have done 6,000 miles and obviously need an oil change.

The second, third and even 4th oil change will STILL be flushing out break-in particles, so it’s not a waste.

What is a waste is having a brand new car and barely driving it. but I applaud you for saving it for the second owner, who will get a low mileage car and Finally DRIVE IT properly.

You do you, and I will do me.

 

[bluesubie]

Wonder if it's assembly lube or a break in oil?

Could be a combination of both, but the factory fill Idemitsu isn’t the same as the dealer service fill Idemitsu.