Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
It worked, and they came off after only 2 days of frustration. Sigh
Two days! If you're going to continue to do work on your own vehicles in a rust-prone area you need to invest in a high powered vibrator and some lube. A good torch would be nice but isn't absolutely necessary.
For a vibrator, my tool of choice is a pneumatic hammer. For your purposes a small one is probably the way to go. A dedicated mini needle scaler would probably work as an adequate low-cost substitute and as a bonus you get a needle scaler. That doesn't work if you don't have compressed air though, so you might have to make due with an electric hammer if you don't have air and don't want to buy a compressor. If that's not a good option, you could go with good cheap overkill: go to a pawn shop and buy the cheapest thing they have with a one cylinder gasoline engine on it. Take the engine off the tool and you have a bulky, awkward, and inconvenient gasoline-fired mega-vibrator. This will shake some serious rust off of things.
Lube: penetrating oil. Kroil is amazing stuff. Vibrate first, then Kroil, then vibrate again if needed. It isn't the cheapest penetrating oil around, but if your time is worth more than $0.15 per hour and you live with rust it's worth it. Hells bells, even if you consider your time to be worthless, it might save you some money on parts that you break trying to break some rust.