This was a new one for me, '05 Suburban tracking down the noise

Joined
Dec 7, 2012
Messages
3,566
The past week and a half, I have done a fair amount of work on the 2005 GMT800 Suburban 1500 in our fleet, daily driven by my wife. Your typical flex-fuel 5.3 L59 with 230k on the clock.

Last Wednesday, I pulled the front driveshaft, removed the encoder motor and took it apart. My goal was to install a new encoder motor position sensor ring. The truck had been going into 4HI or Auto 4WD by itself every other run cycle. Replacing this ring fixed that.

While the front drive shaft was out, I inspected the U-Joints. Both of which are still the original sealed, OE Spicer U-Joints. Both were in excellent shape and went back into service. Also changed the oil while under there. Out went some Rotella Gas Truck 5W-30 and a WIX 51042. In went some Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and a WIX 51522.

So the noise... I had been hearing a noise from the truck that sounded like U-Joints. I figured it'd probably need one by now, and also figured that inspecting them while doing the transfer case work would be a good time. Front ones were fine, so I took a look at the rear shaft. Put a bar in each joint and they were both great. I then pulled the shaft out and inspected both. The rear U-Joints -- 1 is OE original the other had been replaced. Both of which looked great.

So this noise would sound like a "tink tink tink" and I'd only hear it when my wife is backing out of coming home. So my mind went to drivetrain, or items that spin when moving.

Pulled the front wheels off, peeled the brakes off and inspected the wheel bearings. I knew the passenger front was starting to make some noise. The driver front had a smidge of play. So I replaced both front wheel bearings surely figuring that was my noise. Button the whole truck up, take it for a shakedown -- still hear the noise. This time I hear the noise while the truck is accelerating in a straight line, like a screeching almost RPM dependent noise.

So I pull both serpentine belts off and check all pulleys. Nada, all is good. I focus again on the front end and look at the axles. I find one axle has a tear in the boot. No problem, throw an axle at it. Go for another shakedown, same noise. Same screech. Although I didn't really think this is axle related. We get home from the shakedown, I have my wife pull in, then slowly backup. While firmly on the brakes and completely stopped, I hear the noise "tink tink tink tink tink" for about 10 seconds. Now I'm thinking, flex plate is cracked or loose torque converter bolts.

I order on Amazon a new GM flex plate, a new Bosch starter for a 6.0 LSx (starter for a 6.0 Escalade) and wait for it to show up. I figured either the torque converter bolts are loose or the flex plate is cracked. Wanted to have parts on hand. Also figured if I'm pulling the trans. to put this in, I might as well put a new and better starter in. 6.0 starters interchange on 5.3 and 4.8s and sound a million times healthier.

I pull the inspection cover, starter and dust shield from the motor. I can't see anything at all, all looks good. I put my wife at the crank with a big ratchet and a socket and have her spin the motor over. Keep looking -- all looks great. Double check every torque converter bolt, all looks good.

THEN I FOUND IT.



The starter, look at this video. The bendix comes out whenever it wants.

I put the new Bosch 6.0 starter in, we go for a drive and alas, the noise is gone. This has been my noise. When accelerating, I'd bet the gear came out and was spinning with the flex plate and being that it's just a metal gear on a metal shaft, that was the screeching. When I heard the "tink tink tink" in my drive way, it was touching teeth on the flex plate enough to make noise.

The new Bosch 6.0 starter sounds 100% more confident. We went for a long drive, stopped by a local tavern, and celebrated mechanical victory with some fine beef on weck, wings and a few beers.

My wife is happy to have her truck back and I am happy to have figured out what was going on.

Good evening all.
 
I'd say it's rare but have seen it, Gen III Delco-Remy starters go so long...Other parts can wear out/fail before a no-crank occurs.
It was good this was replaced then. Beyond this broken, it cranked pretty sickly. Very thankful.

@clinebarger you ever see a lot of LS flex plates crack? Usually from improper installation or tightening?
 
@redhat thanks for taking the time to share all this. This post will probably help a bunch of folks at some point.
Absolutely hope it will.

I guess my biggest take away from all of this is inspect anything and everything front and back of motor that has the potential to turn with it, even if it shouldn’t during the run cycle.
 
Absolutely hope it will.

I guess my biggest take away from all of this is inspect anything and everything front and back of motor that has the potential to turn with it, even if it shouldn’t during the run cycle.
By the way, I assume by your handle that you, “don’t do windows”?
 
It was good this was replaced then. Beyond this broken, it cranked pretty sickly. Very thankful.

@clinebarger you ever see a lot of LS flex plates crack? Usually from improper installation or tightening?

Unusual for a Dished 4L60E/6L80E/6L90E Flexplate to crack, The Flat 4L80E Flexplate on the other hand crack often because the 4L80E Converter is very heavy.

The '98-'00 "Round Hole" dished Flexplates are the strongest OE LS plates.
 
By the way, I assume by your handle that you, “don’t do windows”?
I used to manage some RHEL (Red Hat Enterprise Linux) boxes at an old job that hosted our corporate intranet. These days I don’t do tons with Red Hat. Lately my server distribution of choice at home is Ubuntu Server for a couple of PiHole boxes.

Daily driver I run a 2019 MacBook Pro and a 2010 iMac in my shed. Have iPhones, iPads and Apple TVs.

I don’t do tons of daily driving on Windows besides my Ryzen gaming PC. Gotta have DirectX.
 
Back
Top