Ducati 848 Rotella 5w/40
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I doubt that any good 10w40 would behave any differently from the Rotella, with 2000+ miles. They would all have viscosity breakdown. With the big Rotella ZDDP package, it would protect well as a 10w. I would keep on going. At the price for a gallon of Rotella, you could change the oil every 1000 miles.
sunruh's found that Walmart's SuperTech 15W-40 holds its viscosity even better than Rotella; that might be worth trying. Otherwise, if you really want good viscosity holding power you'll need to switch to a straight-weight (SAE 40). Oil that falls down into the 30-weight range doesn't provide enough cushioning to the transmission gears and can lead to pitting on the gear faces, so you're right to pay close attention to the viscosity.
You've got one sah-weet bike, John. Enjoy it!
You've got one sah-weet bike, John. Enjoy it!
not only that but i also tested SRT 5w40 and found what you did. it shears easy. WAY to easy!
Hey Guys -
Thanks for the replies. I currently have 5K on the bike, with about 2600 miles on the current Rotella 5w-40, which is about as long as I run any oil in a motorcycle. I'll see what Blackstone says and go from there...
Interestingly, a lot of Ducati shops use the Rotella 5w-40 in place of the Shell Advance 4; from what they say, it's the closest the US can get to the Shell Advance 4.
John
Thanks for the replies. I currently have 5K on the bike, with about 2600 miles on the current Rotella 5w-40, which is about as long as I run any oil in a motorcycle. I'll see what Blackstone says and go from there...
Interestingly, a lot of Ducati shops use the Rotella 5w-40 in place of the Shell Advance 4; from what they say, it's the closest the US can get to the Shell Advance 4.
John
so whats so great abot Advance 4?
i'd almost bet it comes out like water as well.
i'd almost bet it comes out like water as well.
The add pack in the oil does not look like Rotella T 5W-40 (API CI version). Is this the new CJ-4 version? If not, there is either big lab error or you bought an oil other than what you thought you were getting.
Hmm, then it must be lab error.
There was a lot of fuel in the oil since due to their method, Blackstone under-estimates fuel percentage. That certainly lowered the viscosity and I'm sure mechanical shear did as well.
Any idea if this engine typically dilutes the oil with fuel or is it due to it not being fully broken in or something else? That the question I'd want to answer if I owned it since "fixing" that would be one of the best things you can do for it in the long run.
There was a lot of fuel in the oil since due to their method, Blackstone under-estimates fuel percentage. That certainly lowered the viscosity and I'm sure mechanical shear did as well.
Any idea if this engine typically dilutes the oil with fuel or is it due to it not being fully broken in or something else? That the question I'd want to answer if I owned it since "fixing" that would be one of the best things you can do for it in the long run.
Originally Posted By: JAG
Hmm, then it must be lab error.
There was a lot of fuel in the oil since due to their method, Blackstone under-estimates fuel percentage. That certainly lowered the viscosity and I'm sure mechanical shear did as well.
Any idea if this engine typically dilutes the oil with fuel or is it due to it not being fully broken in or something else? That the question I'd want to answer if I owned it since "fixing" that would be one of the best things you can do for it in the long run.
I think (and hope) that the fuel in the oil is due to the engine not being broken in. It's not like the bike runs rich, or has any mods done to it....
John
Hmm, then it must be lab error.
There was a lot of fuel in the oil since due to their method, Blackstone under-estimates fuel percentage. That certainly lowered the viscosity and I'm sure mechanical shear did as well.
Any idea if this engine typically dilutes the oil with fuel or is it due to it not being fully broken in or something else? That the question I'd want to answer if I owned it since "fixing" that would be one of the best things you can do for it in the long run.
I think (and hope) that the fuel in the oil is due to the engine not being broken in. It's not like the bike runs rich, or has any mods done to it....
John
Not bad, diesil oil has alot of calcium in it, I think your interval is good at this point.
Originally Posted By: jad3675
Looks good, though I'm confused by the high Calcium reading.
That's how the calcium should have looked last time. The last one had me confused.
This UOA is overall better than the last too, probably due to the engine breaking in.
Looks good, though I'm confused by the high Calcium reading.
That's how the calcium should have looked last time. The last one had me confused.
Originally Posted By: JAG
The add pack in the oil does not look like Rotella T 5W-40 (API CI version). Is this the new CJ-4 version? If not, there is either big lab error or you bought an oil other than what you thought you were getting.
It does look odd... The Magnesium, Phosphorous and Zinc are all too high and the Calcium is too low...
Could there be this much variance in add pack depending on where an oil is bottled?
Edit: I was looking at your May sample... the July sample looks right for RTS...
The add pack in the oil does not look like Rotella T 5W-40 (API CI version). Is this the new CJ-4 version? If not, there is either big lab error or you bought an oil other than what you thought you were getting.
It does look odd... The Magnesium, Phosphorous and Zinc are all too high and the Calcium is too low...
Could there be this much variance in add pack depending on where an oil is bottled?
Edit: I was looking at your May sample... the July sample looks right for RTS...
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