Buick Century bad fuel pump?

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Originally Posted By: Nick1994
901Memphis, they rent the fuel pressure testers at auto parts for free, it's like a $30 deposit then you get your money back when you return it... Easiest tool to use.


Yes I know. Do you think you could run me up to the local Autozone?
 
Do you live in a small town? Where I live no-matter what part of town you're basically always within a mile of an auto parts store.
 
3.03 miles walking distance to nearest autozone, it ain't happening, no sidewalks on any of the roads, all 45 mph 2 lane highways with barely any shoulder.
 
Sure looks nice and pretty until you take the cover off! Anyone know how to get that ring off? It's not the one i saw in the youtube video that used snap ring pliers, i guess i just gotta move it and get lucky? Looks so crusty i will have to replace it but i don't got the cash for it until next week!

The darn thing is $20 locally.

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fu...333334_68917_0/



ao9xmw.jpg



2mw75o4.jpg
 
Com now, I had to click "toggle display of blocked user" and you posted an expensive tool when I've already made it clear I need the free options.

How shall I go about removing this with hand tools?

I think if I get it off I'm going to wire brush it and paint it with something.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
How shall I go about removing this with hand tools?


3/8 inch diameter pin punch and hammer. Don't make any sparks.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Do you live in a small town? Where I live no-matter what part of town you're basically always within a mile of an auto parts store.


I think there is a NAPA at 15 or so miles miles from me, but I prefer going in the other direction which is 35 miles, as there is a bunch all in close proximity.
 
Try and keep that rusty [censored] from falling into the tank when you remove the pump. I'd clean it up really well before hand and blow it off before taking it apart. A little penetrating oil wouldn't hurt either.
 
That little square cutout half an inch counter clockwise of the 12 oclock position? Put a flat blade screwdriver on there and bang it with a hammer, anticlockwise.

There will be a huge o-ring around the entire pump/sender thing where it meets the tank so chunks of rust etc aren't going to be a problem as long as you manually remove the biggest ones. Actually, just shop vac everything before you get to work, and after you lift the ring, but before you lift the pump. Don't run the shop vac if you smell gas fumes, the fumes will blow up in the vac's motor.

As long as you have the hatch open though, I think you ought to back probe the wires and see how your voltage is doing when it runs and stalls. A bad pump could draw too much amps and drop your volts into the 11s.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Sure looks nice and pretty until you take the cover off! Anyone know how to get that ring off? It's not the one i saw in the youtube video that used snap ring pliers, i guess i just gotta move it and get lucky? Looks so crusty i will have to replace it but i don't got the cash for it until next week!

The darn thing is $20 locally.

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fu...333334_68917_0/

ao9xmw.jpg



2mw75o4.jpg



That's not bad rust at all, most of them up here are much worse than that, no need to change it. That qualifies as a clean used part in the salt belt. LOL
Just spray some penetrating oil around it and tap it around with a big flat head screwdriver, tap it a little on each of the tabs.
Remove the pressure sensor first, it just pushes in (the black one on the bottom of your pic). Use WD40 or engine oil on the seal when you put it back in.
 
Shop vac is something that I don't have access to. I wonder what I can do instead?...Maybe wipe around it with a rag and blow the stuff away from the pump?
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
That little square cutout half an inch counter clockwise of the 12 oclock position? Put a flat blade screwdriver on there and bang it with a hammer, anticlockwise.

There will be a huge o-ring around the entire pump/sender thing where it meets the tank so chunks of rust etc aren't going to be a problem as long as you manually remove the biggest ones. Actually, just shop vac everything before you get to work, and after you lift the ring, but before you lift the pump. Don't run the shop vac if you smell gas fumes, the fumes will blow up in the vac's motor.

As long as you have the hatch open though, I think you ought to back probe the wires and see how your voltage is doing when it runs and stalls. A bad pump could draw too much amps and drop your volts into the 11s.


I already pulled the fuel pump fuse and started it a few times to clear any residual pressure. There was a noticeable difference without the fuel pump fuse in on how it behaved during cranking. I can tell it's getting some fuel pressure obviously.

But anyway I already pulled the battery to charge it since all the cranking shenanigans brought the resting voltage below 12.30v.

Probably not going to put it back in until the job is done.
 
The float and pump assembly is spring loaded in the tank, so don't be surprised when it pops up after you release the lock ring.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
The float and pump assembly is spring loaded in the tank, so don't be surprised when it pops up after you release the lock ring.


Yeah I saw that in a video on YouTube.
 
So far I can't get the ring off. Tons of PB blaster used on four different attempts. Must have hit it with a long screwdriver and hammer hundreds of times. I even tried to get vice grips on the big two pins and the 12 o'clock notch yet it won't budge. It bent the tab I tried so hard but no go. Guess I'll try again another night.
 
All you need is stubby flat head screwdriver and a hammer, lightly tap where the arrows are. You shouldn't have to hit anything hard enough that it is bending.

 
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