Buick Century bad fuel pump?

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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The fuel pump making weird noises doesn't quality as a good diagnosis? It's also staying on longer than it used to when key on, I'm pretty sure I'm hearing it struggle to build pressure.

I tried pounding on the access door to see if it would start but it didn't make a difference.

Nope not in any stretch of the imagination, heard pumps that sounded like they were boring a hole in the tank, the car still ran fine(that's not to say pump didn't get replaced)... Proper diagnostics would include actual pressure test and in case of a driviability issue would include a road test to see if proper fuel pressure was reached/maintained at WOT...

I'm not all that familiar with GM but Ford's older model pump logic is to run approx two seconds at ign turn on(to build pressure) and continually run while cranking or engine running... Pump knows nothing except to respond to the PCM logic, won't run longer or less because it has a problem... I suppose it's possible but I've never seen a pump that would run that didn't produce enough fuel pressure to at least start the engine, this is why I'd check pressure before even thinking about changing pump...

All that said, a vehicle that has over 150K mi probably should have the pump replaced as a maintenance item, they won't last forever... Seen one OEM dead at 29K mi and others still struggling along at 200K mi... A replacement Carter in my '88 T-Bird died in approx 18 months, that was in '01, the replacement Walbro(OEM) is still in it...


Good luck...
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Well i order it off eBay from a top rated plus seller in new york, $42.99 with free USPS Priority shipping with 1 day processing time. fingers crossed i can get it on Saturday so i can do this on my one day off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400945311603


That's the correct part for that car and that engine as long as it has an OE pump unit (it probably does).
Get that one its fine.

Quote:
The fuel pump making weird noises doesn't quality as a good diagnosis? It's also staying on longer than it used to when key on, I'm pretty sure I'm hearing it struggle to build pressure.


Some pumps make noise and continue to do so for a long time without failing. Yes its a good bet that its the pump but i wouldn’t etch it in stone based on noise alone.
 
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
...
I take it that rumor of you being the latest Darwin Award winner were exaggerated? In case you are not aware, Pop_Rivett believe you might have been the person who light up the firework on his head!
 
Come on, you still have not verified if you have spark or not! Why would you order a new fuel pump without finding the cause of your no start condition?
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Come on, you still have not verified if you have spark or not! Why would you order a new fuel pump without finding the cause of your no start condition?


Because he has his heart set on replacing the fuel pump. Don't ruin it for him.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
It does start and run for about two seconds if I let it build pressure.
why didn't you say that before? Of course now it points more towards fuel.

HOWEVER, it is more likely the safety mechanism which prevents raw fuel being dumped in to the engine after accident. ECM has to know that engine is running before it will continue to run the fuel pump. If it thinks the engine is no longer spinning, it will cut off the fuel. So you could get the car started because during the starting that signal is over written.

So it may not be fuel pump but a signal to the fuel pump which might be culprit.
 
I mentioned in the original post that it will run for a few seconds.

Even if it turns out to be the coil pack or something, the pump replacement will probably be a good idea.
 
I guess nobody watched video :-( Why were people suggesting spark, MAF etc? Because they only read "car does not start".

If you are going to throw parts, OK fuel pump might do you good but frankly put the fuel pressure gauge on that schraedder valve first and check the presence of 12V at the fuel pump before condemning the pump.

A dead fuel pump will not let you run even for couple of seconds but in your case, the car starts and then chokes immediately.

What tools do you have?
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
put the fuel pressure gauge on that schraedder valve first and check the presence of 12V at the fuel pump before condemning the pump.


A person would first have to have a fuel pressure tester and know how to put the hose onto a schraeder valve. I suspect most 7 year old kids know how to do that with their bicycle tires.
grin2.gif
 
I had a 2002 Century that I changed the FP on. It is accessed through the trunk and was made difficult by rusty screws.
I used either Spectra or Airtex (can't remember which) purchased at RA and had no problems afterwards.
 
I only have basic hand tools. Sockets and some wrenches. I do have a access to snap ring pliers so that should help. I already took a look at the access door, everything looks really good and clean under the carpet. I might pull the door tonight to see what it looks like under there. Will post some pics.

I really wanted to get the fuel pressure tester but I don't have anyone who is able to help me get back and forth between the parts store otherwise I would have done that.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas


HOWEVER, it is more likely the safety mechanism which prevents raw fuel being dumped in to the engine after accident. ECM has to know that engine is running before it will continue to run the fuel pump. If it thinks the engine is no longer spinning, it will cut off the fuel. So you could get the car started because during the starting that signal is over written.

So it may not be fuel pump but a signal to the fuel pump which might be culprit.


No it isn’t the safety switch, if it were it wouldn’t make any noise at all for even a second until it was reset.
He does hear the pump groaning and it does start for a few seconds so its getting power. The sensor the ecm uses to shut the pump down will throw a code and probably not start at all, IIRC its the crank sensor.
At one time they used the oil pressure switch but it became too much of a problem and they discontinued it. The MAF can cause these symptoms.
 
Quote:
At one time they used the oil pressure switch but it became too much of a problem and they discontinued it.
Honda in its infinite wisdom, used alternator voltage to determine if the engine was running or not to kill the carburetor fuel flow. You can imagine how well that worked out when the alternator stopped working! Start the car, put it in gear and engine stumbles and dies. Repeat forever!!
 
Originally Posted By: Oldmoparguy1
You really do need a fuel pressure tester. I have one similar to this. Basic but works well.
Amazon will deliver it to your door.


Yes I thought about that but money is very tight right now and I need to get the car running asap before I have issues just getting back and forth to work.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: eljefino
...
I take it that rumor of you being the latest Darwin Award winner were exaggerated? In case you are not aware, Pop_Rivett believe you might have been the person who light up the firework on his head!


off topic... nope, not me.

This, me.
 
901Memphis, they rent the fuel pressure testers at auto parts for free, it's like a $30 deposit then you get your money back when you return it... Easiest tool to use.
 
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