Been busy lately so didn't notice the posts, but so far the kit has worked well. No slipppage and no hard shifts since I've installed it.
Originally Posted By: Ryan
You should be able to find someone to do it. I found a webpage (can't find it now) that showed step by step pictures on how to do it.
I'm not sure if links are allowed to be posted here, but I did quite a bit of research on the net before I installed mine and if you search for combinations of 4t65e, hard, shift, and transgo, you'll find lots of hits. The ones I found supportive of the kit decision were Transgo's web site specifically stating their kit is for this problem, and a guy named Dave in Indiana owns a transmission shop that has some good info on his web site. Other companies make kits as well, but most seemed to lean toward the Transgo kit possibly because the others were more of a performance shift kit. Not sure, but dig around and you'll see. You'll also find good info plus write-ups with pics on a Grand Prix forum, and ls1 forum, a W-Body forum, and a Bonneville forum.
If you do decide to do it, print out some of the step-by-step instructions with the pictures and have them on hand when you do the work. Honestly it's really not difficult if you can turn a wrench at all, and can maybe borrow a friend's or family member's garage or driveway.
A few things to watch for if you're inexperienced, because while the kit has some documentation, it doesn't give any instruction on how to do the job.
Loosen the pan bolts in a manner that won't dump eight quarts of fluid on your face. You want the pan to slowly drop on one side only, not all at once.
The filter needs some tugging to get it out. I used a screwdriver to pry it down, but be careful. Also the filter seal is basically a piece of flanged aluminum tubing with an internal o-ring or some such. I have no idea how to remove it without mangling it with a screwdriver and hammer, but that's what I read about how to remove it, so as long as you're careful, don't worry about destroying it.
The pics you'll find are useful to know which four bolts to remove that will allow the accumulator to be removed. The tubes at first seem like a pita, but they are a slip-fit and allow for movement and wiggling, especially when reinstalling the accumulator. Do not tighten the bolts down if they are cocked to one side because the tubes are not allowing the accumulator to seat properly. You'll end up stripping the threads in the soft aluminum casting, so take your time and make sure everything is lined up properly.
Another thing to watch for is the bimetal spring. If you wipe things down along the pan gasket sealing surface, you may end up snagging it. Ask me how I know this.
Also, don't tighten the pan down too tight or you'll end up with leaks. I think the torque value is something like 10 inch pounds, but it's easy to think it needs to be more. I didn't use a torque wrench since I only have one that's for foot pounds, but it's not too hard to make sure they're snug but not too tight.
Phew, I ended up writing way more than I intended, but I hope it helps. Good luck.