Bike chain lube success!

[thwwx]

I like Maxima Chainwax on the motocycle, made for dirtbikes and the non sticky nature does not attract sand. Tried it out on the mtb, works great! Great endurance even in the rain. It's abit like Boeshield but quite alot cheaper and sets up faster. The stuff cleans off readily with GT85, makes maintenance a breeze.

Most bicycle specific 'fancy' lubes barely work well in the dry and plainly don't stay on in the wet. Boeshield and Progold are among the best, but now I am happier with the Maxima.

 

[Spike T]

Gizzsdad

Mike

To use the homebrew recipe, just make up a batch in a droppe bottle, then shake it up. Apply a couple of drops to each link, wipe with a clean rag, and you're done. Its best to do this the night prior to a ride, to allow the mineral spirits to dry, leaving behind the synthetic oil.

SPIKE

 

[ottomatic]

"SS-51"
Off Road Chain & Sprocket Lubricant




Sidewinder Products introduces a newly patented 100% synthetic drive system lube, chemically engineered for severe-duty, dirt bike & ATV use. “SS-51” is a complex compound made up of a “P”oly-flouro-hydride base and over 51 additional synthetic components (hence the designation “SS-51”).

Oil base lubricants are bad news in the dirt. They leave a sticky film that attracts dirt & grit and causes excessive wear to the drive system. “SS-51” has no oil base components and leaves no gummy residue after application, like most other lubes do. In this way “SS-51” eliminates great amounts of friction, yielding maximum power transfer and reducing destructive chain & sprocket wear.

“SS-51” has no wax or paraffin base components either. So-called “chain waxes” melt & sling off at very low temperatures and leave no lubrication behind. “SS-51” is certified operational from –80F to +600F. “SS-51” will not melt like a candle and leave your chain dry and kinked.

“SS-51” is not a “WD” type solvent or cleaner. Many people don’t realize that “WD” type products are basically solvents that have no lubricating qualities at all. In fact, these chemicals are very corrosive toward rubber products, like o-rings, causing them to dry out, crack and fail.

“SS-51” is the direct result of aerospace chemical technology and military research into severe-duty, extreme temp lubes for artillery and firearms.

Sidewinders’ “SS-51” off-road chain and sprocket lubricant stands alone as the only 100% dirt bike & ATV lubricant available today. It is fully compatible with all o-ring materials and all sprocket and chain metals.
The “SS-51” aerosol container uses a unique trigger delivery system for accurate and precise application to the target.

Patented-One of a Kind Formula No One Else Has!

Temperature Rating is an amazing -80° to +600° degrees!

Titanium/Stainless Steel and Alloy Compatible.

Chrome-Moly and Nickel Compatible.

No Sticky Residue Like Other Lubes.

Won't Melt & Sling Off Like Chain Waxes.

Does not contain corrosive solvents

Rated for Sustained Hi-Speed Operation.

Perfect for O-Ring & X-Ring Chains.

Thousands of Other applications.


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Doesn't it just make sense to buy your
sprocket & chain lubricant from a company
that actually makes sprockets & chains?


Sidewinder "SS-51" Off Road
Synthetic Off Road Chain Lube

Ihave been riding bikes and moyorcycles for 40 years this stuff is fantastic

 

[gizzsdad]

Quote:

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Gizzsdad

Mike

To use the homebrew recipe, just make up a batch in a droppe bottle, then shake it up. Apply a couple of drops to each link, wipe with a clean rag, and you're done. Its best to do this the night prior to a ride, to allow the mineral spirits to dry, leaving behind the synthetic oil.

SPIKE

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Thanks Spike. Not sure where to find a 'droppe' bottle, but I'll give it a try!

Mike

 

[bdai]

I use spray-on graphite lube once a month. It's been working well - five year old bike that gets ridden in Canadian winters through salt/slush/etc. is still on the original chains, no visible rust.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

"Doesn't it just make sense to buy your sprocket & chain lubricant from a company that actually makes sprockets & chains?"

Just as it makes sense to buy B&S oil for your lawnmower, John Deere oil for your tractor, Ford oil for your car.....

 

[Ron Jeremy]

I'm pretty fastidious about drive train maintenance. I have Sram chains with removable connector links on both my road and mountain bikes. After each and every ride, the chain comes off and gets soaked in a jar of varsol. After it is shaken and soaked, it drys on the workbench over night. Also the cassette and chainrings are cleaned with a brush and varsol. After everything is dry and shining like a new dime, the chain goes back on and is lubed with Amsoil HDMP. There are probably slicker lubes that may provide slightly less resistance, but I like the fact that it dries to a wax-like finish. Many of the fancy lubes are simply too thin or attract dust. My system may be a bit time consuming, but my chains and sprockets last forever and my bikes run like new on every ride.

 

[tdi-rick]

Quote:

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I use spray-on graphite lube once a month. It's been working well - five year old bike that gets ridden in Canadian winters through salt/slush/etc. is still on the original chains, no visible rust.

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but how is it for wear ??

Quote:

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Norms when new : On new chains, the pitch for single links should be exactly 0.50" (ie link-pairs 1.00"). Thus 12 link-pairs on a new (or unstretched) chain, should measure exactly 12.00" = 304.8mm, but there are always manufacturing inaccuracies. On a range of brand new chains, I measured "stretch" to be in the range of -0.10% to +0.15% (measured using a long steel ruler over 48 link-pairs).

Replacement Criteria : For normal maintenance (chain-suck not an issue), chains should be replaced at about +0.5% overall "stretch". This +0.5% = 1/16" = 1.5mm over 12 link-pairs.

By +1.0% stretch (1/8" or 3.0mm over 12 link-pairs), chains will have done significant damage to both the chain-rings and rear sprockets. Then when you install a new (or low-stretch) chain, it will inevitably skip over the worn teeth on the rear sprockets during high-load pedalling ; this is very disconcerting and its impact loading will do further damage and will do it quickly.

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Ron, I used to really like SRAM chains, but have gone back to Shimano (XTR/Dura Ace) as I feel they are lasting longer and shifting better.
...and FWIW, I really like Rock-N-Roll's chain lubes.

 

[Ron Jeremy]

No argument about shifting. The SRAM chain works fine on my Ultegra 8-speed road bike, but I would say that it is not quite as crisp on my XT 8-speed MTB. The MTB has all brand new rings and cassette, so it was a fresh start. A person could always use the SRAM connector with a Shimano chain. I will always stay with a quick connect link now. BTW, speaking of measuring chain wear, I've got one of those Park chain wear measuring tools. It's an excellent product that takes the guess work out of the process.

 

[bdai]

Quote:

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Quote:

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I use spray-on graphite lube once a month. It's been working well - five year old bike that gets ridden in Canadian winters through salt/slush/etc. is still on the original chains, no visible rust.

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but how is it for wear ??

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I've never measure the chain for wear, but the chain doesn't ever jump or anything like that. Good enough for me.

 

[Ron Jeremy]

It won't jump until you replace your chain. If you are lubing it once a month, there is no doubt that your back sprockets will be toast. You may as well run that chain until it won't run anymore.

 

[rearviewmirror]

I use Maxima Chainwax (the motorcycle variety) for all my bicycles. If a motorcycle can't fling it off then I'm not concerned about my bicycle. It has good water resistance as well.