Thanks for the write-up, I love hearing success stories with products like that. I wouldn't mind trying Liqui-Moly's regular motor oils but I just wish they were a little cheaper.
At what point does cold idling outweigh mileage?
- Thread starter cheesepuffs
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Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Thanks for the write-up, I love hearing success stories with products like that. I wouldn't mind trying Liqui-Moly's regular motor oils but I just wish they were a little cheaper.
Here they are comparable to Mobil 1 and actually cheaper than ultra,they are about par with regular priced pp/qsud.
Liqui-moly is a great company. Everything they make works as advertised. I've never had mos2 not improve fuel consumption in everything I've put it in,and as a bonus(I didn't know when I first started using the stuff)my equipment lasts longer.
Best change I've ever spent on an engine.
Thanks for the write-up, I love hearing success stories with products like that. I wouldn't mind trying Liqui-Moly's regular motor oils but I just wish they were a little cheaper.
Here they are comparable to Mobil 1 and actually cheaper than ultra,they are about par with regular priced pp/qsud.
Liqui-moly is a great company. Everything they make works as advertised. I've never had mos2 not improve fuel consumption in everything I've put it in,and as a bonus(I didn't know when I first started using the stuff)my equipment lasts longer.
Best change I've ever spent on an engine.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
Originally Posted By: BertieBlue
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
Hooch. That's awesome.
My chargers an 06 so not too bad as far as pollution.
-15c is a piece of cake and I just get in and drive at those balmy temps however -30c and colder I'm letting it warm up.
Steering is almost not moving at those temps and breathing fogs up the windows real fast,and blowing cold air at them just chills me quicker.
It's an appliance meant to serve its owner. I maintain it well but it's still there to do what I need done.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
Hooch. That's awesome.
My chargers an 06 so not too bad as far as pollution.
-15c is a piece of cake and I just get in and drive at those balmy temps however -30c and colder I'm letting it warm up.
Steering is almost not moving at those temps and breathing fogs up the windows real fast,and blowing cold air at them just chills me quicker.
It's an appliance meant to serve its owner. I maintain it well but it's still there to do what I need done.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning.
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning.
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
That has been my feeling as well, almost along the lines of Restore. I had it stop a lawn mower smoking for a few years now. I think it fills small imperfections. The only thing that has me a little spooked were the pictures that Trav posted in an engine that sees very little driving. I don't see any problems using it in a daily driver, but cars that sit for weeks on end might have a lot of the product fall out of suspension and could remain in the bottom of the oil pan as Trav's pictures showed. A moly like the one used in Biotech Engine Protectant might be better suited for an application like Trav's. JMO
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
That has been my feeling as well, almost along the lines of Restore. I had it stop a lawn mower smoking for a few years now. I think it fills small imperfections. The only thing that has me a little spooked were the pictures that Trav posted in an engine that sees very little driving. I don't see any problems using it in a daily driver, but cars that sit for weeks on end might have a lot of the product fall out of suspension and could remain in the bottom of the oil pan as Trav's pictures showed. A moly like the one used in Biotech Engine Protectant might be better suited for an application like Trav's. JMO
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
That has been my feeling as well, almost along the lines of Restore. I had it stop a lawn mower smoking for a few years now. I think it fills small imperfections. The only thing that has me a little spooked were the pictures that Trav posted in an engine that sees very little driving. I don't see any problems using it in a daily driver, but cars that sit for weeks on end might have a lot of the product fall out of suspension and could remain in the bottom of the oil pan as Trav's pictures showed. A moly like the one used in Biotech Engine Protectant might be better suited for an application like Trav's. JMO
K. So just to throw it out there.
I've bought the liqui-moly 10w-40 that already has mos2 mixed into the oil.
The jugs were marked 2012,I used it last summer.
There was no additive fall out in the oil jug. Considering it sat for over a year I'd think something would have dropped out if it actually happen.
I'm not questioning Trav nor you dermapaint however after a year of sitting in the bottle one would think its equal to a year in an engines oil pan,right?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
That has been my feeling as well, almost along the lines of Restore. I had it stop a lawn mower smoking for a few years now. I think it fills small imperfections. The only thing that has me a little spooked were the pictures that Trav posted in an engine that sees very little driving. I don't see any problems using it in a daily driver, but cars that sit for weeks on end might have a lot of the product fall out of suspension and could remain in the bottom of the oil pan as Trav's pictures showed. A moly like the one used in Biotech Engine Protectant might be better suited for an application like Trav's. JMO
K. So just to throw it out there.
I've bought the liqui-moly 10w-40 that already has mos2 mixed into the oil.
The jugs were marked 2012,I used it last summer.
There was no additive fall out in the oil jug. Considering it sat for over a year I'd think something would have dropped out if it actually happen.
I'm not questioning Trav nor you dermapaint however after a year of sitting in the bottle one would think its equal to a year in an engines oil pan,right?
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
That has been my feeling as well, almost along the lines of Restore. I had it stop a lawn mower smoking for a few years now. I think it fills small imperfections. The only thing that has me a little spooked were the pictures that Trav posted in an engine that sees very little driving. I don't see any problems using it in a daily driver, but cars that sit for weeks on end might have a lot of the product fall out of suspension and could remain in the bottom of the oil pan as Trav's pictures showed. A moly like the one used in Biotech Engine Protectant might be better suited for an application like Trav's. JMO
K. So just to throw it out there.
I've bought the liqui-moly 10w-40 that already has mos2 mixed into the oil.
The jugs were marked 2012,I used it last summer.
There was no additive fall out in the oil jug. Considering it sat for over a year I'd think something would have dropped out if it actually happen.
I'm not questioning Trav nor you dermapaint however after a year of sitting in the bottle one would think its equal to a year in an engines oil pan,right?
I hear ya, I'm just going by the pictures and the usage Trav's car gets. I'm not familiar with their oil, is it the exact same MoS2 they use in their additive? I read conflicting reports, some saying their oil doesn't contain it at all.
Others say it has MoS2, others say it is a different form of Moly????? I never saw their oil in any store I shop at so I have no idea.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I've long hypothesized that MoS2, though it may not agglomerate in the oil, could smooth surfaces by filling in imperfections, and perhaps help clog leaks too.
The other one is highly improbable, as tolerances in engines are on the thousandths of an inch and the surface active agents are on the order of nanometers. That's roughly 100k times different length scales.
That has been my feeling as well, almost along the lines of Restore. I had it stop a lawn mower smoking for a few years now. I think it fills small imperfections. The only thing that has me a little spooked were the pictures that Trav posted in an engine that sees very little driving. I don't see any problems using it in a daily driver, but cars that sit for weeks on end might have a lot of the product fall out of suspension and could remain in the bottom of the oil pan as Trav's pictures showed. A moly like the one used in Biotech Engine Protectant might be better suited for an application like Trav's. JMO
K. So just to throw it out there.
I've bought the liqui-moly 10w-40 that already has mos2 mixed into the oil.
The jugs were marked 2012,I used it last summer.
There was no additive fall out in the oil jug. Considering it sat for over a year I'd think something would have dropped out if it actually happen.
I'm not questioning Trav nor you dermapaint however after a year of sitting in the bottle one would think its equal to a year in an engines oil pan,right?
I hear ya, I'm just going by the pictures and the usage Trav's car gets. I'm not familiar with their oil, is it the exact same MoS2 they use in their additive? I read conflicting reports, some saying their oil doesn't contain it at all.
K. So just to throw it out there.
I've bought the liqui-moly 10w-40 that already has mos2 mixed into the oil.
The jugs were marked 2012,I used it last summer.
There was no additive fall out in the oil jug. Considering it sat for over a year I'd think something would have dropped out if it actually happen.
I'm not questioning Trav nor you dermapaint however after a year of sitting in the bottle one would think its equal to a year in an engines oil pan,right? [/quote]
I hear ya, I'm just going by the pictures and the usage Trav's car gets. I'm not familiar with their oil, is it the exact same MoS2 they use in their additive? I read conflicting reports, some saying their oil doesn't contain it at all.
Others say it has MoS2, others say it is a different form of Moly????? I never saw their oil in any store I shop at so I have no idea.[/quote]
K DP.
Liqui- moly has a 10w-40 that has their mos2 additive already in the oil. But that's the only grade and the only product I've seen where they've added their mos2 additive to the oil already.
I've seen and used their 0w-40,which meets all the same specs as M1 0w-40 but it isn't treated with the mos2 additive,and every other liqui-moly engine oil I've seen isn't already treated with their mos2 additive.
Just to re-iterate I've only seen a 10w-40 grade that DID include their mos2 additive. Nothing else I've seen has it already in the oil.
I've bought the liqui-moly 10w-40 that already has mos2 mixed into the oil.
The jugs were marked 2012,I used it last summer.
There was no additive fall out in the oil jug. Considering it sat for over a year I'd think something would have dropped out if it actually happen.
I'm not questioning Trav nor you dermapaint however after a year of sitting in the bottle one would think its equal to a year in an engines oil pan,right? [/quote]
I hear ya, I'm just going by the pictures and the usage Trav's car gets. I'm not familiar with their oil, is it the exact same MoS2 they use in their additive? I read conflicting reports, some saying their oil doesn't contain it at all.
K DP.
Liqui- moly has a 10w-40 that has their mos2 additive already in the oil. But that's the only grade and the only product I've seen where they've added their mos2 additive to the oil already.
I've seen and used their 0w-40,which meets all the same specs as M1 0w-40 but it isn't treated with the mos2 additive,and every other liqui-moly engine oil I've seen isn't already treated with their mos2 additive.
Just to re-iterate I've only seen a 10w-40 grade that DID include their mos2 additive. Nothing else I've seen has it already in the oil.
Originally Posted By: BertieBlue
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
No point stressing over nothing.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
No point stressing over nothing.
In reference to your main question I would just do a 3k OCI with whatever dino you feel like. I think fuel dilution is less of a problem than you might think, and it isn't going to do much harm especially in a SBC. I drive 1 1/2 miles one way to work and depending on the temps my car idles anywhere from 1 minute to 15 minutes. Last fill I went close to 5k with no issues.
Originally Posted By: Brent_G
In reference to your main question I would just do a 3k OCI with whatever dino you feel like. I think fuel dilution is less of a problem than you might think, and it isn't going to do much harm especially in a SBC. I drive 1 1/2 miles one way to work and depending on the temps my car idles anywhere from 1 minute to 15 minutes. Last fill I went close to 5k with no issues.
Good to know. You ever get a UOA on that?
In reference to your main question I would just do a 3k OCI with whatever dino you feel like. I think fuel dilution is less of a problem than you might think, and it isn't going to do much harm especially in a SBC. I drive 1 1/2 miles one way to work and depending on the temps my car idles anywhere from 1 minute to 15 minutes. Last fill I went close to 5k with no issues.
Good to know. You ever get a UOA on that?
Nope, for the price of a uoa I can grab a jug of oil and just change it.
I don't know why you would ask this same question on this forum three times in only a few months and yet won't do a UOA.
Everyone's opinion on what to do is just that. Without data for your vehicle and it's use, everything else is just speculation. Now would be the perfect time to do a sample and then you would know. It's only $20.00.
Everyone's opinion on what to do is just that. Without data for your vehicle and it's use, everything else is just speculation. Now would be the perfect time to do a sample and then you would know. It's only $20.00.
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: BertieBlue
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
No point stressing over nothing.
Well,
My word...
Originally Posted By: BertieBlue
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder.
Thats nuts.
I was going to post about you guys not having much consideration for the environment by leaving your clunky, 3 decade old rust buckets chugging for hours on end and the needless waste of (good) motor oil for your unearthly OCI's, but when you have temps of -30c well i guess its a do-or-die situation.
What's in the radiator systems at those temps? Hooch?
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
No point stressing over nothing.
Well,
My word...
Why does every one think a higher flash point is going to lower consumption in a oil burner??? IT'S NOT... Most oil burning occurs because oil is leaking past the rings or valve stem seals and is burned by combustion at over 1000*F... Whether the flash point is 380* or 450*, makes no difference...
The ONLY way to lower consumption is a thicker oil that gives better ring seal or maybe HM oil that is thicker and possibly condition the valve stem seals...
Of course there are "miracles in a can" that may or may not help, by freeing stuck rings and/or conditioning seals...
The ONLY way to lower consumption is a thicker oil that gives better ring seal or maybe HM oil that is thicker and possibly condition the valve stem seals...
Of course there are "miracles in a can" that may or may not help, by freeing stuck rings and/or conditioning seals...
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
Have you tried wearing a sweater cheesepoof?
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
Have you tried wearing a sweater cheesepoof?
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Why does every one think a higher flash point is going to lower consumption in a oil burner??? IT'S NOT... Most oil burning occurs because oil is leaking past the rings or valve stem seals and is burned by combustion at over 1000*F... Whether the flash point is 380* or 450*, makes no difference...
The ONLY way to lower consumption is a thicker oil that gives better ring seal or maybe HM oil that is thicker and possibly condition the valve stem seals...
Of course there are "miracles in a can" that may or may not help, by freeing stuck rings and/or conditioning seals...
If you're referring to me, I had tried M1 in an oil burner longggg before I had ever heard of this place. All I knew was that the car was burning oil and the jug of M1 claimed it was better at preventing burn off. You put two and two together as a non-BITOG consumer and it makes perfect sense before you learn otherwise.
Why does every one think a higher flash point is going to lower consumption in a oil burner??? IT'S NOT... Most oil burning occurs because oil is leaking past the rings or valve stem seals and is burned by combustion at over 1000*F... Whether the flash point is 380* or 450*, makes no difference...
The ONLY way to lower consumption is a thicker oil that gives better ring seal or maybe HM oil that is thicker and possibly condition the valve stem seals...
Of course there are "miracles in a can" that may or may not help, by freeing stuck rings and/or conditioning seals...
If you're referring to me, I had tried M1 in an oil burner longggg before I had ever heard of this place. All I knew was that the car was burning oil and the jug of M1 claimed it was better at preventing burn off. You put two and two together as a non-BITOG consumer and it makes perfect sense before you learn otherwise.
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
Have you tried wearing a sweater cheesepoof?
Yes. This morning I actually didn't idle my truck before I was in a rush. I wore a thick jacket (same one as always) with the hood up and winter gloves. Still sucked. Do-able yes, but why suffer...
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
My truck is 22 years old, which is old, but not three decades old. My truck is fuel injected and has OBD1 emissions control and diagnostics and retains the stock cats. My point is, you're barking up the wrong tree. One running cargo ship alone offsets TONS of cars and in the grand scheme of things some idling vehicles account for very little environmental impact whatsoever. As for short OCIs causing more environmental harm you'd be dead wrong because every drop of oil I use gets recycled anyway.
Have you tried wearing a sweater cheesepoof?
Yes. This morning I actually didn't idle my truck before I was in a rush. I wore a thick jacket (same one as always) with the hood up and winter gloves. Still sucked. Do-able yes, but why suffer...
I had a look at the specs on that truck.
15 mpg?
lol, I'd have torched it long ago. 15mpg is nuts! How much is petrol over there?
(Its €1.50L) over here
15 mpg?
lol, I'd have torched it long ago. 15mpg is nuts! How much is petrol over there?
(Its €1.50L) over here
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