Guys my roof leaks and when it rains a certain spot on my headliner gets wet. Again, my cab leaks moisture in. I am not lying about having a chronically foggy (and a lot of the time icy) inner windshield. That's not even the point of this thread though... And I am not fixing it because its a 22 year old truck and I don't care. End of story.
At what point does cold idling outweigh mileage?
- Thread starter cheesepuffs
- Start date
- Status
JHZR2
Staff member
Great. So you've figured it all out then. Probably also don't want to spend money in a UOA, so I'd just do a 3 month/9 month OCI, and change something really cheap like st for dec-mar, and then pyb for the other 9 months.
Given that you don't care about water leaks in the cab, not sure why you even care about the OCI either. Why not just run what's on sale and forget about it?
Or just take it on a longer drive once in a while and don't worry.
Given that you don't care about water leaks in the cab, not sure why you even care about the OCI either. Why not just run what's on sale and forget about it?
Or just take it on a longer drive once in a while and don't worry.
Originally Posted By: datech
Those little heaters that run on 12V are pretty worthless.
Well at least they're "pretty".
Those little heaters that run on 12V are pretty worthless.
Well at least they're "pretty".
JHZ, I care about the OCI and not the roof because the roof leaking a little bit doesn't hinder the trucks reliability like over extending my OCI could. If you can't see the difference then I can't help you.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
JHZ, I care about the OCI and not the roof because the roof leaking a little bit doesn't hinder the trucks reliability like over extending my OCI could. If you can't see the difference then I can't help you.
Except that you have zero data and thus have it all based upon speculation. And you're doing it all because you have a roof leak that causes the insides to fog.
It's all connected, and to me is silly logic. Idle for extended periods, which costs money and causes wear... That apparently you fret over... Which drives you to shortened oil changes which also cost money and cause you to lack surety, in a vehicle that apparently you don't care much about, because you're unwilling to fix the fundamental problem that causes the supposed safety issue of iced/fogged interior windows, which is the whole reason you're doing this to begin with apparently.
If you don't care much about it that you're willing to allow a roof leak and water inside (=assured rust-out), not sure why you're concerned about this at all. The truck will become moldy or rust out before the engine sees any huge issues.
So all this is about a band aid for the fundamental issue you're unwilling to fix, yet you talk about reliability or longevity?
JHZ, I care about the OCI and not the roof because the roof leaking a little bit doesn't hinder the trucks reliability like over extending my OCI could. If you can't see the difference then I can't help you.
Except that you have zero data and thus have it all based upon speculation. And you're doing it all because you have a roof leak that causes the insides to fog.
It's all connected, and to me is silly logic. Idle for extended periods, which costs money and causes wear... That apparently you fret over... Which drives you to shortened oil changes which also cost money and cause you to lack surety, in a vehicle that apparently you don't care much about, because you're unwilling to fix the fundamental problem that causes the supposed safety issue of iced/fogged interior windows, which is the whole reason you're doing this to begin with apparently.
If you don't care much about it that you're willing to allow a roof leak and water inside (=assured rust-out), not sure why you're concerned about this at all. The truck will become moldy or rust out before the engine sees any huge issues.
So all this is about a band aid for the fundamental issue you're unwilling to fix, yet you talk about reliability or longevity?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
JHZ, I care about the OCI and not the roof because the roof leaking a little bit doesn't hinder the trucks reliability like over extending my OCI could. If you can't see the difference then I can't help you.
Except that you have zero data and thus have it all based upon speculation. And you're doing it all because you have a roof leak that causes the insides to fog.
It's all connected, and to me is silly logic. Idle for extended periods, which costs money and causes wear... That apparently you fret over... Which drives you to shortened oil changes which also cost money and cause you to lack surety, in a vehicle that apparently you don't care much about, because you're unwilling to fix the fundamental problem that causes the supposed safety issue of iced/fogged interior windows, which is the whole reason you're doing this to begin with apparently.
If you don't care much about it that you're willing to allow a roof leak and water inside (=assured rust-out), not sure why you're concerned about this at all. The truck will become moldy or rust out before the engine sees any huge issues.
So all this is about a band aid for the fundamental issue you're unwilling to fix, yet you talk about reliability or longevity?
You are literally why New Jersey is the laughing stock of the northeast. Above ALL else I idle my truck to keep me warm. Because unlike a lot of other members, I own my vehicle instead of things being the other way around. I made this thread to ask if others with similar patterns follow a similar OCI schedule as the one I am implementing. This thread is not for a condescending [censored] like yourself to try to analyze my routine and critique me. I don't care in any way, shape or form how concerned you are about how much I pollute the air (even though cows of all things contribute more greenhouse gasses than cars and my one truck makes zero impact) or how you think I should spend my money or how I should prioritize any given issue with my truck.
If you can't accept that then get the [censored] out of my thread that you keep clicking on despite the fact that you are evidently so appalled by your findings. I cannot believe how uptight you are about something that doesn't concern you in the slightest.
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
JHZ, I care about the OCI and not the roof because the roof leaking a little bit doesn't hinder the trucks reliability like over extending my OCI could. If you can't see the difference then I can't help you.
Except that you have zero data and thus have it all based upon speculation. And you're doing it all because you have a roof leak that causes the insides to fog.
It's all connected, and to me is silly logic. Idle for extended periods, which costs money and causes wear... That apparently you fret over... Which drives you to shortened oil changes which also cost money and cause you to lack surety, in a vehicle that apparently you don't care much about, because you're unwilling to fix the fundamental problem that causes the supposed safety issue of iced/fogged interior windows, which is the whole reason you're doing this to begin with apparently.
If you don't care much about it that you're willing to allow a roof leak and water inside (=assured rust-out), not sure why you're concerned about this at all. The truck will become moldy or rust out before the engine sees any huge issues.
So all this is about a band aid for the fundamental issue you're unwilling to fix, yet you talk about reliability or longevity?
You are literally why New Jersey is the laughing stock of the northeast. Above ALL else I idle my truck to keep me warm. Because unlike a lot of other members, I own my vehicle instead of things being the other way around. I made this thread to ask if others with similar patterns follow a similar OCI schedule as the one I am implementing. This thread is not for a condescending [censored] like yourself to try to analyze my routine and critique me. I don't care in any way, shape or form how concerned you are about how much I pollute the air (even though cows of all things contribute more greenhouse gasses than cars and my one truck makes zero impact) or how you think I should spend my money or how I should prioritize any given issue with my truck.
If you can't accept that then get the [censored] out of my thread that you keep clicking on despite the fact that you are evidently so appalled by your findings. I cannot believe how uptight you are about something that doesn't concern you in the slightest.
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder. I use good synthetics though. I usually put 10000 or so miles on over the winter and I change the oil as soon as its warm enough to fathom getting under the car.
Since your drive to work is really short I suggest using a good synthetic and maybe even a euro 0w-40 and I'll tell you my reasoning why.
A 0w-40 will be a bit better when the inevitable fuel dilution comes into play and its ideal for cold starts. I'd then move to a yearly change, likely in the fall so the oil is new for winter.
Then I'd plan on a bi-weekly highway run of about 30 miles at steady cruise to evaporate any accumulated fuel and condensation.
I think you'd be ahead simply because you'll only be changing the oil yearly. And m1 0w-40 is only 26 bucks at Walmart. So basically 30 bucks a year for oil and filter.
Be sure to find a euro long life oil though. It will say it on the back. This would be what I'd do.
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder. I use good synthetics though. I usually put 10000 or so miles on over the winter and I change the oil as soon as its warm enough to fathom getting under the car.
Since your drive to work is really short I suggest using a good synthetic and maybe even a euro 0w-40 and I'll tell you my reasoning why.
A 0w-40 will be a bit better when the inevitable fuel dilution comes into play and its ideal for cold starts. I'd then move to a yearly change, likely in the fall so the oil is new for winter.
Then I'd plan on a bi-weekly highway run of about 30 miles at steady cruise to evaporate any accumulated fuel and condensation.
I think you'd be ahead simply because you'll only be changing the oil yearly. And m1 0w-40 is only 26 bucks at Walmart. So basically 30 bucks a year for oil and filter.
Be sure to find a euro long life oil though. It will say it on the back. This would be what I'd do.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder. I use good synthetics though. I usually put 10000 or so miles on over the winter and I change the oil as soon as its warm enough to fathom getting under the car.
Since your drive to work is really short I suggest using a good synthetic and maybe even a euro 0w-40 and I'll tell you my reasoning why.
A 0w-40 will be a bit better when the inevitable fuel dilution comes into play and its ideal for cold starts. I'd then move to a yearly change, likely in the fall so the oil is new for winter.
Then I'd plan on a bi-weekly highway run of about 30 miles at steady cruise to evaporate any accumulated fuel and condensation.
I think you'd be ahead simply because you'll only be changing the oil yearly. And m1 0w-40 is only 26 bucks at Walmart. So basically 30 bucks a year for oil and filter.
Be sure to find a euro long life oil though. It will say it on the back. This would be what I'd do.
That's an interesting idea. I hadn't thought about a 0w-40 but that would seem to cover all the bases. To be honest, running a full syn in an engine this old concerns me though. The engine does have a thin layer of black sludge (a coating but nothing like thick pudding to be worried about) visible through the oil fill hole and I'm willing to bet that some of my gaskets and seals are still holding oil in due to some sludge retention. I'd rather not stir the pot and cause leaks with a synthetic from seals that currently aren't leaking in the first place.
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no? With seal swellers to counteract my fears that might be the hot ticket. Interesting and thought provoking idea, thank you Clevy.
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder. I use good synthetics though. I usually put 10000 or so miles on over the winter and I change the oil as soon as its warm enough to fathom getting under the car.
Since your drive to work is really short I suggest using a good synthetic and maybe even a euro 0w-40 and I'll tell you my reasoning why.
A 0w-40 will be a bit better when the inevitable fuel dilution comes into play and its ideal for cold starts. I'd then move to a yearly change, likely in the fall so the oil is new for winter.
Then I'd plan on a bi-weekly highway run of about 30 miles at steady cruise to evaporate any accumulated fuel and condensation.
I think you'd be ahead simply because you'll only be changing the oil yearly. And m1 0w-40 is only 26 bucks at Walmart. So basically 30 bucks a year for oil and filter.
Be sure to find a euro long life oil though. It will say it on the back. This would be what I'd do.
That's an interesting idea. I hadn't thought about a 0w-40 but that would seem to cover all the bases. To be honest, running a full syn in an engine this old concerns me though. The engine does have a thin layer of black sludge (a coating but nothing like thick pudding to be worried about) visible through the oil fill hole and I'm willing to bet that some of my gaskets and seals are still holding oil in due to some sludge retention. I'd rather not stir the pot and cause leaks with a synthetic from seals that currently aren't leaking in the first place.
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no? With seal swellers to counteract my fears that might be the hot ticket. Interesting and thought provoking idea, thank you Clevy.
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no?
Nope, but they do make 5w-30 High Mileage...an excellent oil.
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no?
Nope, but they do make 5w-30 High Mileage...an excellent oil.
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder. I use good synthetics though. I usually put 10000 or so miles on over the winter and I change the oil as soon as its warm enough to fathom getting under the car.
Since your drive to work is really short I suggest using a good synthetic and maybe even a euro 0w-40 and I'll tell you my reasoning why.
A 0w-40 will be a bit better when the inevitable fuel dilution comes into play and its ideal for cold starts. I'd then move to a yearly change, likely in the fall so the oil is new for winter.
Then I'd plan on a bi-weekly highway run of about 30 miles at steady cruise to evaporate any accumulated fuel and condensation.
I think you'd be ahead simply because you'll only be changing the oil yearly. And m1 0w-40 is only 26 bucks at Walmart. So basically 30 bucks a year for oil and filter.
Be sure to find a euro long life oil though. It will say it on the back. This would be what I'd do.
That's an interesting idea. I hadn't thought about a 0w-40 but that would seem to cover all the bases. To be honest, running a full syn in an engine this old concerns me though. The engine does have a thin layer of black sludge (a coating but nothing like thick pudding to be worried about) visible through the oil fill hole and I'm willing to bet that some of my gaskets and seals are still holding oil in due to some sludge retention. I'd rather not stir the pot and cause leaks with a synthetic from seals that currently aren't leaking in the first place.
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no? With seal swellers to counteract my fears that might be the hot ticket. Interesting and thought provoking idea, thank you Clevy.
K. No the 0w-40 doesn't come in a high mileage flavour however if you are concerned about gaskets I suggest buying a product made by a company called liqui-moly. It's called motor oil saver. The stuff is amazing at stopping leaks,unless the gasket is physically broken.
You can find it at napa for 7 bucks a can. It will also raise the TBN of the oil which will insure that a yearly interval is no problem.
Motor oil saver will condition your gaskets and stop any potential leaks before they start.
So with the extra 7 bucks for motor oil saver that brings your yearly expenditure up to less than 40 bucks.
Because you've mentioned there may be deposits in the engine I suggest using a really good extended drain filter like the fram ultra,or for the first year change the filter at the 6 month mark.
The fram ultra will hold 27 grams of particulate so it should be good for the year.
I'm using the fram ultra for 20000 miles however my engine is known to be clean.
The M1 0w-40 is going to clean stuff up. The motor oil saver is an ester which will also clean stuff as well as condition the gaskets.
Now that you've mentioned deposits I would add a bottle of mmo,or a can of seafoam right away to get a head start on the cleaning and get a lot of the deposits into the existing filter.
Then at oil change time use M1 0w-40 and a can of motor oil saver,along with a fram ultra and start with yearly changes from that point going forward.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cheesepuffs
I idle for at least a half hour when the temps are -30c and colder. I use good synthetics though. I usually put 10000 or so miles on over the winter and I change the oil as soon as its warm enough to fathom getting under the car.
Since your drive to work is really short I suggest using a good synthetic and maybe even a euro 0w-40 and I'll tell you my reasoning why.
A 0w-40 will be a bit better when the inevitable fuel dilution comes into play and its ideal for cold starts. I'd then move to a yearly change, likely in the fall so the oil is new for winter.
Then I'd plan on a bi-weekly highway run of about 30 miles at steady cruise to evaporate any accumulated fuel and condensation.
I think you'd be ahead simply because you'll only be changing the oil yearly. And m1 0w-40 is only 26 bucks at Walmart. So basically 30 bucks a year for oil and filter.
Be sure to find a euro long life oil though. It will say it on the back. This would be what I'd do.
That's an interesting idea. I hadn't thought about a 0w-40 but that would seem to cover all the bases. To be honest, running a full syn in an engine this old concerns me though. The engine does have a thin layer of black sludge (a coating but nothing like thick pudding to be worried about) visible through the oil fill hole and I'm willing to bet that some of my gaskets and seals are still holding oil in due to some sludge retention. I'd rather not stir the pot and cause leaks with a synthetic from seals that currently aren't leaking in the first place.
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no? With seal swellers to counteract my fears that might be the hot ticket. Interesting and thought provoking idea, thank you Clevy.
K. No the 0w-40 doesn't come in a high mileage flavour however if you are concerned about gaskets I suggest buying a product made by a company called liqui-moly. It's called motor oil saver. The stuff is amazing at stopping leaks,unless the gasket is physically broken.
You can find it at napa for 7 bucks a can. It will also raise the TBN of the oil which will insure that a yearly interval is no problem.
Motor oil saver will condition your gaskets and stop any potential leaks before they start.
So with the extra 7 bucks for motor oil saver that brings your yearly expenditure up to less than 40 bucks.
Because you've mentioned there may be deposits in the engine I suggest using a really good extended drain filter like the fram ultra,or for the first year change the filter at the 6 month mark.
The fram ultra will hold 27 grams of particulate so it should be good for the year.
I'm using the fram ultra for 20000 miles however my engine is known to be clean.
The M1 0w-40 is going to clean stuff up. The motor oil saver is an ester which will also clean stuff as well as condition the gaskets.
Now that you've mentioned deposits I would add a bottle of mmo,or a can of seafoam right away to get a head start on the cleaning and get a lot of the deposits into the existing filter.
Then at oil change time use M1 0w-40 and a can of motor oil saver,along with a fram ultra and start with yearly changes from that point going forward.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
JHZ, I care about the OCI and not the roof because the roof leaking a little bit doesn't hinder the trucks reliability like over extending my OCI could. If you can't see the difference then I can't help you.
Except that you have zero data and thus have it all based upon speculation. And you're doing it all because you have a roof leak that causes the insides to fog.
It's all connected, and to me is silly logic. Idle for extended periods, which costs money and causes wear... That apparently you fret over... Which drives you to shortened oil changes which also cost money and cause you to lack surety, in a vehicle that apparently you don't care much about, because you're unwilling to fix the fundamental problem that causes the supposed safety issue of iced/fogged interior windows, which is the whole reason you're doing this to begin with apparently.
If you don't care much about it that you're willing to allow a roof leak and water inside (=assured rust-out), not sure why you're concerned about this at all. The truck will become moldy or rust out before the engine sees any huge issues.
So all this is about a band aid for the fundamental issue you're unwilling to fix, yet you talk about reliability or longevity?
You are literally why New Jersey is the laughing stock of the northeast. Above ALL else I idle my truck to keep me warm. Because unlike a lot of other members, I own my vehicle instead of things being the other way around. I made this thread to ask if others with similar patterns follow a similar OCI schedule as the one I am implementing. This thread is not for a condescending [censored] like yourself to try to analyze my routine and critique me. I don't care in any way, shape or form how concerned you are about how much I pollute the air (even though cows of all things contribute more greenhouse gasses than cars and my one truck makes zero impact) or how you think I should spend my money or how I should prioritize any given issue with my truck.
If you can't accept that then get the [censored] out of my thread that you keep clicking on despite the fact that you are evidently so appalled by your findings. I cannot believe how uptight you are about something that doesn't concern you in the slightest.
Beyond rude. Where I live has nothing to do with anything, but apparently you cant make a decent argument of your own when called out for your ridiculous logic. It has nothing to do with pollution, which if you had the slightest reading comprehension, you would have noted. But apparently you havent been able to move beyond an apartment complex, and it sure is rude to your neighbors to be spewing dirty air their way. Pollution or not, its not pleasant to breathe.
But given that you cant grasp the concept that the water leak is the issue (which you conveniently didnt even note until well into the thread... wonder why), and are just pulling for excuses to give your ridiculous scenario peace of mind, Ill just have to laugh. Especially since my wife and my mother drive shorter commutes with just fine OCIs becaue we actually have DATA, not speculation and spewing argumentitive rhetoric at anyone who doesnt agree with your silly situation. Go do what you want.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
JHZ, I care about the OCI and not the roof because the roof leaking a little bit doesn't hinder the trucks reliability like over extending my OCI could. If you can't see the difference then I can't help you.
Except that you have zero data and thus have it all based upon speculation. And you're doing it all because you have a roof leak that causes the insides to fog.
It's all connected, and to me is silly logic. Idle for extended periods, which costs money and causes wear... That apparently you fret over... Which drives you to shortened oil changes which also cost money and cause you to lack surety, in a vehicle that apparently you don't care much about, because you're unwilling to fix the fundamental problem that causes the supposed safety issue of iced/fogged interior windows, which is the whole reason you're doing this to begin with apparently.
If you don't care much about it that you're willing to allow a roof leak and water inside (=assured rust-out), not sure why you're concerned about this at all. The truck will become moldy or rust out before the engine sees any huge issues.
So all this is about a band aid for the fundamental issue you're unwilling to fix, yet you talk about reliability or longevity?
You are literally why New Jersey is the laughing stock of the northeast. Above ALL else I idle my truck to keep me warm. Because unlike a lot of other members, I own my vehicle instead of things being the other way around. I made this thread to ask if others with similar patterns follow a similar OCI schedule as the one I am implementing. This thread is not for a condescending [censored] like yourself to try to analyze my routine and critique me. I don't care in any way, shape or form how concerned you are about how much I pollute the air (even though cows of all things contribute more greenhouse gasses than cars and my one truck makes zero impact) or how you think I should spend my money or how I should prioritize any given issue with my truck.
If you can't accept that then get the [censored] out of my thread that you keep clicking on despite the fact that you are evidently so appalled by your findings. I cannot believe how uptight you are about something that doesn't concern you in the slightest.
Beyond rude. Where I live has nothing to do with anything, but apparently you cant make a decent argument of your own when called out for your ridiculous logic. It has nothing to do with pollution, which if you had the slightest reading comprehension, you would have noted. But apparently you havent been able to move beyond an apartment complex, and it sure is rude to your neighbors to be spewing dirty air their way. Pollution or not, its not pleasant to breathe.
But given that you cant grasp the concept that the water leak is the issue (which you conveniently didnt even note until well into the thread... wonder why), and are just pulling for excuses to give your ridiculous scenario peace of mind, Ill just have to laugh. Especially since my wife and my mother drive shorter commutes with just fine OCIs becaue we actually have DATA, not speculation and spewing argumentitive rhetoric at anyone who doesnt agree with your silly situation. Go do what you want.
My post up above is the best one in this thread.
Nice and short and to the point and it even compliments the OP.
Nice and short and to the point and it even compliments the OP.
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no?
Nope, but they do make 5w-30 High Mileage...an excellent oil.
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning.
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no?
Nope, but they do make 5w-30 High Mileage...an excellent oil.
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning.
They make a product you might want to buy and its very cheap....
http://www.rainx.com/product/glass-and-cleaners/rainx-anti-fog/#.UwLAarQ0_XU
http://www.rainx.com/product/glass-and-cleaners/rainx-anti-fog/#.UwLAarQ0_XU
Originally Posted By: mcrn
They make a product you might want to buy and its very cheap....
http://www.rainx.com/product/glass-and-cleaners/rainx-anti-fog/#.UwLAarQ0_XU
I've tried it and found that it works but only for a short duration of time and then you need to continue buying more and using tons of it (and I don't mean only with my chronic fogging/icing case but also in other vehicles that don't have leaky roofs). It helps, but to me it's the same as the spray-on type of Rain-X rain repellent. Impressive initial results that fade rather quickly. Thank you very much for the suggestion though! You reminded me that I think I have a pack of those left with some wipes still in it from last time I used it, so I could at least use them for now and get rid of them.
They make a product you might want to buy and its very cheap....
http://www.rainx.com/product/glass-and-cleaners/rainx-anti-fog/#.UwLAarQ0_XU
I've tried it and found that it works but only for a short duration of time and then you need to continue buying more and using tons of it (and I don't mean only with my chronic fogging/icing case but also in other vehicles that don't have leaky roofs). It helps, but to me it's the same as the spray-on type of Rain-X rain repellent. Impressive initial results that fade rather quickly. Thank you very much for the suggestion though! You reminded me that I think I have a pack of those left with some wipes still in it from last time I used it, so I could at least use them for now and get rid of them.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no?
Nope, but they do make 5w-30 High Mileage...an excellent oil.
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning.
I didn't know anything about Mos2 before (only read the name here a couple times) so thanks for the info and sharing your experience.
Your idea of the old add pack being stripped seems plausible. I'd say you're on the right track there. Really no other way to explain it but my time using M1 sure left a bad taste in my mouth with Mobil products for a long time (that was three years ago and I'm only considering trying Mobil oil again as of recently). I really believe it would have happened with PP or PU or QSUD or any number of other syns too though so it's not like it's Mobil's fault.
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
That being said, Mobil makes M1 0w-40 High Mileage, no?
Nope, but they do make 5w-30 High Mileage...an excellent oil.
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs?
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning.
I didn't know anything about Mos2 before (only read the name here a couple times) so thanks for the info and sharing your experience.
Your idea of the old add pack being stripped seems plausible. I'd say you're on the right track there. Really no other way to explain it but my time using M1 sure left a bad taste in my mouth with Mobil products for a long time (that was three years ago and I'm only considering trying Mobil oil again as of recently). I really believe it would have happened with PP or PU or QSUD or any number of other syns too though so it's not like it's Mobil's fault.
My only experience with a full synthetic was M1 5w-30 (non HM) in an oil burning Toyota 1ZZ (they're famous for sticking rings and burning oil as many are aware). That engine ran dino for 10 years before I tried M1 on it (due to syn having better burn-off protection) but that engine DRANK through it like no tomorrow. Faster than GTX or VWB. And the PVC valve was functional. I was flabbergasted, dumbfounded, shocked. I haven't touched a synthetic since. I have more recently read here though that others have had the same issue when switching from a long-term dino ran car to PU.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs? [/quote]
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning. [/quote]
I didn't know anything about Mos2 before (only read the name here a couple times) so thanks for the info and sharing your experience.
Your idea of the old add pack being stripped seems plausible. I'd say you're on the right track there. Really no other way to explain it but my time using M1 sure left a bad taste in my mouth with Mobil products for a long time (that was three years ago and I'm only considering trying Mobil oil again as of recently). I really believe it would have happened with PP or PU or QSUD or any number of other syns too though so it's not like it's Mobil's fault. [/quote]
I'm really not a fan of Mobil at all. In fact I really have no interest in any of their products EXCEPT their 0w-40. That oil is something special. Truly a world class product and the cost in America is fantastic.
I buy based on price how. The majors are so close in quality in each of their tiered products it's basically splitting hairs. The only reason I suggest M1 0w-40 is the price at Walmart,otherwise if cost wasn't a factor liqui-moly 0w-40 would be my first choice.
It meets all the same specs as the M1 does,including the euro long life specs and I've had very good experiences with their products and I'd rather support liqui-moly as a company than Mobil,but 26 bucks for a 5 litre jug is really tough to ignore.
And the liqui-moly motor oil saver is fantastic stuff. It's got boron in it and is an ester which raises tbn which adds some padding in the tbn department helping getting to that 1 year oil change interval.
And I've had stellar results with mos2. My Chevy gained 1.5 kms per litre using it in the oil,my charger gain 2-3 mpg consistently with it in my oil. Mos2 repeatably improved fuel consumption in everything I've put it in.
And I use it every second oil change in my compressors and generators at work and I've got 5.5 hp 160cc Honda engines with over 10000 hours on the engines.
I've got 2 compressors with 5.5 Honda engines I bought 8 years ago. The engines have never been opened up,nor any carb work.
I use tc-w3/xylene in the fuel,and have for many years and mos2 in the oil. Those 2 compressors have eaten through a couple of actual compressor pumps so far but the engines are bone stock and never been opened up an of the 16 we now own my 2 oldest are the best of all of them.
My guys ran one of my generators without oil a couple years ago,in the heat of the summer. Instead of adding oil they unplugged the oil alert circuit so the generator would run and not immediately shut off.
I had been running mos2 in the oil for a few years in it already but after 2 days of running with the oil alert circuit unplugged the generator locked up solid.
So they call me and tell me it won't turn over and there's no oil in it. I go to their site and see for myself it's seized.
So all I had was tranny fluid in my truck. I put a quart and a half of tranny fluid in the oil sump,removed the pull cord housing,went to princess auto or a 2' pipe wrench and breaker bar. Stopped at Canadian tire for a news part plug just for the heck of it.
I got the pipe wrench around the crank bolt,breaker bar over the pipe wrench which gave me close to 5' of leverage and broke the crank free and got the engine to spin.
So as I was putting it back together I sent one of my guys to get some actual engine oil and he brought me a gallon of co-op 0w-40 hdeo.
I got the generator started with tranny fluid. Let it run for a couple of minutes then shut it off. Drained the tranny fluid which came out black as tar and added a quart of oil.
Ran that for 20 minutes,changed it again then added mos2 to the new oil and the guys went back to work.
I went back to princess auto to buy another generator because I figured the one that was seized was pretty much finished. That was 4-5 years ago now and that generator is still running.
My service guy came for tools a week later so I told him what happened. He figured the bores would be scored and the bearings blued with heat so he took it back to his shop.
He removed the top end and was utterly amazed. The bores were fine. The piston was a bit blued from what he said but he said everything looks fine and we wasn't gonna bother taking the rest apart because everything looked fine.
He then asked what oil I used. He now is a believer in liqui-moly products and recommends them to his customers.
That generator is still onsite,still running. After being locked up solid.
Liqui-moly makes products that work. It's just that simple.
In ww2 the fighter planes used mos2 in the oil so if their oil pans got shot out and they lost oil they could land the plane under its own power.
And iirc when vw was having overheating issues with their air-cooled engines in the 70s they recommended mos2 which cured the problem.
The stuff works.
I tore apart a 2v 4.6 ford from my mustang. The engine had sat,are moved from the car for 2 years. The cams still felt slick to the touch when I removed them,2 years after its last start up,2 years since oil had touch it,and still felt slippery.
I'm sold.
Bottom line, that experience left a bitter taste in my mouth and I don't know what to think since. Why does an engine used to dino drink a syn upon switching? I've also read that it goes away after an OCI or two and then all it fine again but it takes awhile. So the idea of switching intrigues me but I have my reservations. Any thoughts or opinions about this on why it occurs? [/quote]
I think that different brands of oil get consumed for any number of reasons but here's my take on it.
The existing oil has left its anti-wear layer and misc deposits. The new oil cleans these deposits as well as strips the anti-wear layer because different brands have different chemistries.
Once the new oil has laid down its anti-wear layer and has formed deposits the consumption ceases,until brands are switched again and the cycle continues.
I feel it has more to to with the engine than the oil though because some engines consume no oil no matter what brand and even when different brands are used at every oil change.
Other engines consume oil until deposits have formed and the anti-wear layer has been laid down.
I've had really good results with mos2 in an oil burner that belonged to my neighbour,and various outdoor equipment like lawn mowers and a roto-tiller.
My neighbour has a grand am. I figured the rings or valve guides were shot because at start up it smoked for a few minutes until the engine got hot.
I added mos2 to his oil and within a week no more smoke at start up,so I figure the mos2 plated whatever was allowing oil to pass by and made the clearance smaller thereby stopping the oil burning.
My lawnmower last year smoked at start up for about 30 seconds. Added mos2 and no more smoke,and its easier to pull over now too.
Yes mos2 is a band aid and is by no means a permanent fix but its great at helping eek out those few extra miles before junking an engine n
And every engine I've ever added mos2 to got easier on fuel,repeatably. Best 8 bucks I ever spent for an engine.
And motor oil saver has been great to me as well. My 88 fox had a rear main seal leak so bad it undercoated the entire underbody of the car. 1 can of motor oil saver and that 302 no longer leaks.
Of course motor oil saver isn't a replacement for a proper gasket replacement however as a preventative step on an old engine to prevent a gasket deficiency it cannot be beat.
For 8 bucks you can add a can of this ester additive. It raises the tbn of the oil which now allows longer drains and it will condition the gaskets preventing future leaks.
Winning. [/quote]
I didn't know anything about Mos2 before (only read the name here a couple times) so thanks for the info and sharing your experience.
Your idea of the old add pack being stripped seems plausible. I'd say you're on the right track there. Really no other way to explain it but my time using M1 sure left a bad taste in my mouth with Mobil products for a long time (that was three years ago and I'm only considering trying Mobil oil again as of recently). I really believe it would have happened with PP or PU or QSUD or any number of other syns too though so it's not like it's Mobil's fault. [/quote]
I'm really not a fan of Mobil at all. In fact I really have no interest in any of their products EXCEPT their 0w-40. That oil is something special. Truly a world class product and the cost in America is fantastic.
I buy based on price how. The majors are so close in quality in each of their tiered products it's basically splitting hairs. The only reason I suggest M1 0w-40 is the price at Walmart,otherwise if cost wasn't a factor liqui-moly 0w-40 would be my first choice.
It meets all the same specs as the M1 does,including the euro long life specs and I've had very good experiences with their products and I'd rather support liqui-moly as a company than Mobil,but 26 bucks for a 5 litre jug is really tough to ignore.
And the liqui-moly motor oil saver is fantastic stuff. It's got boron in it and is an ester which raises tbn which adds some padding in the tbn department helping getting to that 1 year oil change interval.
And I've had stellar results with mos2. My Chevy gained 1.5 kms per litre using it in the oil,my charger gain 2-3 mpg consistently with it in my oil. Mos2 repeatably improved fuel consumption in everything I've put it in.
And I use it every second oil change in my compressors and generators at work and I've got 5.5 hp 160cc Honda engines with over 10000 hours on the engines.
I've got 2 compressors with 5.5 Honda engines I bought 8 years ago. The engines have never been opened up,nor any carb work.
I use tc-w3/xylene in the fuel,and have for many years and mos2 in the oil. Those 2 compressors have eaten through a couple of actual compressor pumps so far but the engines are bone stock and never been opened up an of the 16 we now own my 2 oldest are the best of all of them.
My guys ran one of my generators without oil a couple years ago,in the heat of the summer. Instead of adding oil they unplugged the oil alert circuit so the generator would run and not immediately shut off.
I had been running mos2 in the oil for a few years in it already but after 2 days of running with the oil alert circuit unplugged the generator locked up solid.
So they call me and tell me it won't turn over and there's no oil in it. I go to their site and see for myself it's seized.
So all I had was tranny fluid in my truck. I put a quart and a half of tranny fluid in the oil sump,removed the pull cord housing,went to princess auto or a 2' pipe wrench and breaker bar. Stopped at Canadian tire for a news part plug just for the heck of it.
I got the pipe wrench around the crank bolt,breaker bar over the pipe wrench which gave me close to 5' of leverage and broke the crank free and got the engine to spin.
So as I was putting it back together I sent one of my guys to get some actual engine oil and he brought me a gallon of co-op 0w-40 hdeo.
I got the generator started with tranny fluid. Let it run for a couple of minutes then shut it off. Drained the tranny fluid which came out black as tar and added a quart of oil.
Ran that for 20 minutes,changed it again then added mos2 to the new oil and the guys went back to work.
I went back to princess auto to buy another generator because I figured the one that was seized was pretty much finished. That was 4-5 years ago now and that generator is still running.
My service guy came for tools a week later so I told him what happened. He figured the bores would be scored and the bearings blued with heat so he took it back to his shop.
He removed the top end and was utterly amazed. The bores were fine. The piston was a bit blued from what he said but he said everything looks fine and we wasn't gonna bother taking the rest apart because everything looked fine.
He then asked what oil I used. He now is a believer in liqui-moly products and recommends them to his customers.
That generator is still onsite,still running. After being locked up solid.
Liqui-moly makes products that work. It's just that simple.
In ww2 the fighter planes used mos2 in the oil so if their oil pans got shot out and they lost oil they could land the plane under its own power.
And iirc when vw was having overheating issues with their air-cooled engines in the 70s they recommended mos2 which cured the problem.
The stuff works.
I tore apart a 2v 4.6 ford from my mustang. The engine had sat,are moved from the car for 2 years. The cams still felt slick to the touch when I removed them,2 years after its last start up,2 years since oil had touch it,and still felt slippery.
I'm sold.
Wow, very impressive! The generator story is crazy.
Originally Posted By: cheesepuffs
Wow, very impressive! The generator story is crazy.
The generator it a 3500 watt Honda,and was already 5 years old prior to it seizing.
To be honest cheesepuffs if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't believe it. I figured their had to be at least some kind of damage and there was none. It certainly hasn't shortened the life cycle of the generator.
My 2 oldest compressors are what impress me most. There is no way a honda 5.5hp 160cc engine is made to last no 10000 hours and prior to using mos2 I never got more than a couple years out of a compressor.
My crews were much smaller back then too. It was just me and a couple guys but my compressor would run 10 hours a day(minimum)6 and sometimes 7 days a week so over a period of a couple years I'm guesstimating 6000-7000 hours on the engines and they were pretty much done so I'd sell it for a couple hundred to another crew and buy another.
But these 2 are 8ish years old at least. The triple has been my personal pump for 5 years and prior to my back injury I'd work pretty much every day. I'm a sub contractor so the more I get done the more money I make.
So in 5 years I'm looking at at the bare minumum 10000 hours,then post injury my compressor went out from site to site for the past 3 years so the barest minimum on my personal crews compressor is 14000 hours.
Which is double the life span of any compressor I've ever had before.
Yes today's oils are better,and my service routine hasn't changed. The only thing different is mos2.
So that 8 dollar can of mos2 lasts for 4 oil changes because I only ad 1/4 can,at every second oils change and it doubles the life of the compressors engines.
And keeps them from overheating as a bonus.
My generator ran for a day or 2,with little to no oil. The engines are splash lubricated too,so once all factors are considered its amazing what this stuff has done for me.
Considering each compressor costs me 800 bucks each,generators start at 1500 for a decent one,300-400 for a 3000 watt Chinese unit,and I can double each units life by adding 1/4 can of mos2,at 8 dollars a can,so 2 dollars a dose,every second oil change.
Consider all that stuff and then ask me if mos2 is worth the cost.
I have begun to add ceratec to them now. I figure once every 6 months should be fine.
I can say without a doubt that's ceratec has lowered the compressor pump temps enough that I can actually put my hands on the cooling fins,and leave them there whereas prior to ceratec 10 seconds with my hands on the pump's block would be the absolute max.
I'm of the additives are snake oil school of thought,but I do try various ones that get some hype. Liqui-moly consistently works as advertised and the only brand of additives I'll actually buy.
Yes after a year of playing with concentrations I use tc-w3/xylene in every drop of fuel any engine I own burns and since discovering liqui-moly I believe in every product they produce.
Wow, very impressive! The generator story is crazy.
The generator it a 3500 watt Honda,and was already 5 years old prior to it seizing.
To be honest cheesepuffs if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't believe it. I figured their had to be at least some kind of damage and there was none. It certainly hasn't shortened the life cycle of the generator.
My 2 oldest compressors are what impress me most. There is no way a honda 5.5hp 160cc engine is made to last no 10000 hours and prior to using mos2 I never got more than a couple years out of a compressor.
My crews were much smaller back then too. It was just me and a couple guys but my compressor would run 10 hours a day(minimum)6 and sometimes 7 days a week so over a period of a couple years I'm guesstimating 6000-7000 hours on the engines and they were pretty much done so I'd sell it for a couple hundred to another crew and buy another.
But these 2 are 8ish years old at least. The triple has been my personal pump for 5 years and prior to my back injury I'd work pretty much every day. I'm a sub contractor so the more I get done the more money I make.
So in 5 years I'm looking at at the bare minumum 10000 hours,then post injury my compressor went out from site to site for the past 3 years so the barest minimum on my personal crews compressor is 14000 hours.
Which is double the life span of any compressor I've ever had before.
Yes today's oils are better,and my service routine hasn't changed. The only thing different is mos2.
So that 8 dollar can of mos2 lasts for 4 oil changes because I only ad 1/4 can,at every second oils change and it doubles the life of the compressors engines.
And keeps them from overheating as a bonus.
My generator ran for a day or 2,with little to no oil. The engines are splash lubricated too,so once all factors are considered its amazing what this stuff has done for me.
Considering each compressor costs me 800 bucks each,generators start at 1500 for a decent one,300-400 for a 3000 watt Chinese unit,and I can double each units life by adding 1/4 can of mos2,at 8 dollars a can,so 2 dollars a dose,every second oil change.
Consider all that stuff and then ask me if mos2 is worth the cost.
I have begun to add ceratec to them now. I figure once every 6 months should be fine.
I can say without a doubt that's ceratec has lowered the compressor pump temps enough that I can actually put my hands on the cooling fins,and leave them there whereas prior to ceratec 10 seconds with my hands on the pump's block would be the absolute max.
I'm of the additives are snake oil school of thought,but I do try various ones that get some hype. Liqui-moly consistently works as advertised and the only brand of additives I'll actually buy.
Yes after a year of playing with concentrations I use tc-w3/xylene in every drop of fuel any engine I own burns and since discovering liqui-moly I believe in every product they produce.
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