After a timing belt job how long before oc

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 30, 2011
Messages
246
Location
Topsail Island NC
Na miata just had timing belt changed and currently have around 2500 miles on qsgb and a p1 at 13 months so I'm about ready for a change but was thinking about going 100-200 miles before I change to wash any dust or debri into the filter if any got inside. Just looking for some opinions if I'm on the right track or if I should go a little longer or if you would've changed immediately. Hopfuly the p1 isn't torn will cut and post eventually.
 
Last edited:
I'd let the oil filter do its job and go through the rest of the OCI. That's what I did on my Focus when I changed the timing belt.
 
No I haven't. Actually, I have a few old oil filters sitting around because I anticipate buying an oil filter cutter.

Honestly, I took extra precaution when doing the timing belt to ensure nothing fell down into the engine while I had the valve cover off. That's why I didn't worry too much about it.

Also, I thought about all the valve cover gasket replacements I've done over the years, with no ill effects from popping the cover(s) off.

Sorry I'm not much of a help in that regards.
 
Yeah I wish I had the shop and time to do it myself to make sure nothing fell inside but I had a nice garage do it. But since I wasn't evolved I may just be over thinking it
 
the belt was changed before breakage? finish normal OCI
if the belt broke, hopefully you got it before any fine debris clogged the oil passages.
(had that problem once. broken timing belt, had it fixed for $600. week later the engine sounded like a meatgrinder, ended up having to get a Jasper Remanufactured Engine. ~$2000)
 
Not sure, but... wouldn't OC have nothing to do with timing belt?

I can see how you could do one, if it was part of a full service like spark plugs, etc.
 
No the water pump started leaking and it was due for a new belt so if you know about miatas you gotta take off the timing belt to get to the pump. And they had to take the valve cover off for the service so the top of the motor was exposed allowing so thing to possibly get inside.also had cam and crank seals replaced since they were in the area. And it's 25 yr old
 
Also on my motor is a non interference motor. And the belt is concealed outside of the internals so I don't belive a broken belt could get into the oil passages.
 
sounds similar to the 2.0l Neon Engine. it's water pump is Driven by the timing belt, so water pump replacement is a normal part of the timing Belt Service.( and Chrysler recommended doing the cam and crank seals at the same time)
 
Honestly I don't think it'll make a difference either way. Whether the oil/ filter is new or 2500 miles in, the filter will do its job by collecting all the debris that could have fallen into the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: tratman2000
Also on my motor is a non interference motor. And the belt is concealed outside of the internals so I don't belive a broken belt could get into the oil passages.


Rubber timing belts never run in oil ... only metal timing chains do.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Honestly I don't think it'll make a difference either way. Whether the oil/ filter is new or 2500 miles in, the filter will do its job by collecting all the debris that could have fallen into the engine.


+1 ... leave the filter on and just do a regular oil change. You should cut it open to see what's going on inside and to see if it caught anything abnormal.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Honestly I don't think it'll make a difference either way. Whether the oil/ filter is new or 2500 miles in, the filter will do its job by collecting all the debris that could have fallen into the engine.

As long as his Pure One doesn't have any tears, that is.
 
I try to change the oil as soon as possible after timing belt or valve adjustment services. Who knows how much dirt/debris got into the valvetrain and such from when the valve cover(s) were off when the shop worked on it and left it uncovered.
 
Any used filter not approaching full load is going to filter "better" than a new one.

Presuming the P1 has no tear, and you're at 2.5k miles, I'd leave it on there. It can go MUCH further with no risk of loading to a point of bypass. And it will be more efficient while doing so, because it already has some load in it now.

In this case, new is not better.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Any used filter not approaching full load is going to filter "better" than a new one.

Presuming the P1 has no tear, and you're at 2.5k miles, I'd leave it on there. It can go MUCH further with no risk of loading to a point of bypass. And it will be more efficient while doing so, because it already has some load in it now.

In this case, new is not better.


Yes I agree with the milage part being ok just that I'm at 13 months on the filter plus concerned with the filters integrity.
 
Then by all means, take it off and replace it something more reliable.
smile.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top