3-row towing vehicle
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Tahoe or Suburban would be the best bet.
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Ford Expedition with the 3.5 Ecoboost. We had one as a rental recently and despite my disappointment with the interior (it was an XLT base) the engine and transmission performance were excellent and that turbo six moved the big SUV around with ease.
Originally Posted By: Number_35
My friend is looking to change vehicles, to upgrade the tow rating.
Requirements:
Tow rating closer to 6000# or better
3 rows of seats
Not too hard on gas
Given that he and his family put very few miles on the vehicle (averaging < 10K km/year), I don't think the fuel economy should necessarily be a major factor, but it is always a consideration here with our higher fuel costs. It's their only vehicle, so is not used only to tow.
I would prefer a Tahoe or Suburban, but my friend thinks they're too big. I think a previous-generation Explorer would have done the job as well, but the Expedition would, like the Tahoe/Suburban, be too big.
You're going to have to spend a lot of money to make that list come true. Your friend believing that a Tahoe is too large makes this really difficult. Most people (and manufacturers) don't try to make 1 vehicle do all these things. If you throw out size and fuel economy then a conventional RWD van makes the most sense and could be had cheap enough to be a second vehicle. If the 3rd row can be done away with a Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel checks all the boxes as does the Touraeg TDi.
The old 5.9 equipped Durango tows well, but gets single digit fuel economy pulling a 2-axle travel trailer.
How many people does the vehicle need to carry? I know you say a 3rd row seat is a requirement, but do you really need room for more than 5?
My friend is looking to change vehicles, to upgrade the tow rating.
Requirements:
Tow rating closer to 6000# or better
3 rows of seats
Not too hard on gas
Given that he and his family put very few miles on the vehicle (averaging < 10K km/year), I don't think the fuel economy should necessarily be a major factor, but it is always a consideration here with our higher fuel costs. It's their only vehicle, so is not used only to tow.
I would prefer a Tahoe or Suburban, but my friend thinks they're too big. I think a previous-generation Explorer would have done the job as well, but the Expedition would, like the Tahoe/Suburban, be too big.
You're going to have to spend a lot of money to make that list come true. Your friend believing that a Tahoe is too large makes this really difficult. Most people (and manufacturers) don't try to make 1 vehicle do all these things. If you throw out size and fuel economy then a conventional RWD van makes the most sense and could be had cheap enough to be a second vehicle. If the 3rd row can be done away with a Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel checks all the boxes as does the Touraeg TDi.
The old 5.9 equipped Durango tows well, but gets single digit fuel economy pulling a 2-axle travel trailer.
How many people does the vehicle need to carry? I know you say a 3rd row seat is a requirement, but do you really need room for more than 5?
Originally Posted By: CKN
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: CKN
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
You need 10-15% (average ~13%) of the trailer weight on the tongue so that it will be stable. Otherwise you will get severe sway. No way around it.
Originally Posted By: CKN
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
You need 10-15% (average ~13%) of the trailer weight on the tongue so that it will be stable. Otherwise you will get severe sway. No way around it.
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: CKN
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
You need 10-15% (average ~13%) of the trailer weight on the tongue so that it will be stable. Otherwise you will get severe sway. No way around it.
I read 5-10% some places? With a friction bar it shouldn't be an issue though.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: CKN
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
You need 10-15% (average ~13%) of the trailer weight on the tongue so that it will be stable. Otherwise you will get severe sway. No way around it.
I read 5-10% some places? With a friction bar it shouldn't be an issue though.
^^^^
No. 10% is minimum for travel trailer type and you even want a little more just to make it more stable. Friction bar or other type of sway control is like putting a bandaid on a severed limb. It won't help if you don't have at least the minimum tongue weight.
No. 10% is minimum for travel trailer type and you even want a little more just to make it more stable. Friction bar or other type of sway control is like putting a bandaid on a severed limb. It won't help if you don't have at least the minimum tongue weight.
We were just traveling around NZ for 3 weeks in a campervan.
Of note, a lot of standard sedans had tow hitches on them. It was routine to see things like:
and
People own "vehicles". Not "tow vehicles". Quite windy roads, with the highest speed limit of 100 kph, probably keeps things slow and safe.
I'm sure our DOT would freak out over many things seen, though.
Of note, a lot of standard sedans had tow hitches on them. It was routine to see things like:
and
People own "vehicles". Not "tow vehicles". Quite windy roads, with the highest speed limit of 100 kph, probably keeps things slow and safe.
I'm sure our DOT would freak out over many things seen, though.
Originally Posted By: surfstar
It was routine to see things like
http://oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611
It was routine to see things like
http://oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611
Originally Posted By: Number_35
My friend is looking to change vehicles, to upgrade the tow rating.
He's been using a Chevy Traverse (3.6 l I think, w/ a tow-rating of c. 5000#) to tow a camper trailer w/ a dry weight of close to 4000#. By the time the trailer is loaded up, it's white-knuckle time with the Traverse in spite of the tow rating not being exceeded.
Requirements:
Tow rating closer to 6000# or better
3 rows of seats
Not too hard on gas
Given that he and his family put very few miles on the vehicle (averaging < 10K km/year), I don't think the fuel economy should necessarily be a major factor, but it is always a consideration here with our higher fuel costs. It's their only vehicle, so is not used only to tow.
The Traverse looks to be in excellent condition, and has very few miles on it (IIRC < 35K km on a 4 or 5 year-old vehicle) and should be worth top dollar.
He's thinking that a Durango might be best, preferably with a small V8, perhaps the 4.7. I would prefer a Tahoe or Suburban, but my friend thinks they're too big. I think a previous-generation Explorer would have done the job as well, but the Expedition would, like the Tahoe/Suburban, be too big.
To confound things, a mutual friend towing a slightly heavier 5th-wheel (and comparable frontal area) with a RAM 1500 finds the 4.7 somewhat taxed when climbing a hill or facing a headwind or crosswind, so the Durango might be better equipped with a larger engine. (Is the venerable 318 still around?)
So, I'd appreciate hearing from the BITOG crew on this. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Durango v6 pulls 6200lbs. I get 28mpg on the road. Ride is one of the best. Chassis/suspension/transmission is based on MB ML/GLxxx.
My friend is looking to change vehicles, to upgrade the tow rating.
He's been using a Chevy Traverse (3.6 l I think, w/ a tow-rating of c. 5000#) to tow a camper trailer w/ a dry weight of close to 4000#. By the time the trailer is loaded up, it's white-knuckle time with the Traverse in spite of the tow rating not being exceeded.
Requirements:
Tow rating closer to 6000# or better
3 rows of seats
Not too hard on gas
Given that he and his family put very few miles on the vehicle (averaging < 10K km/year), I don't think the fuel economy should necessarily be a major factor, but it is always a consideration here with our higher fuel costs. It's their only vehicle, so is not used only to tow.
The Traverse looks to be in excellent condition, and has very few miles on it (IIRC < 35K km on a 4 or 5 year-old vehicle) and should be worth top dollar.
He's thinking that a Durango might be best, preferably with a small V8, perhaps the 4.7. I would prefer a Tahoe or Suburban, but my friend thinks they're too big. I think a previous-generation Explorer would have done the job as well, but the Expedition would, like the Tahoe/Suburban, be too big.
To confound things, a mutual friend towing a slightly heavier 5th-wheel (and comparable frontal area) with a RAM 1500 finds the 4.7 somewhat taxed when climbing a hill or facing a headwind or crosswind, so the Durango might be better equipped with a larger engine. (Is the venerable 318 still around?)
So, I'd appreciate hearing from the BITOG crew on this. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Durango v6 pulls 6200lbs. I get 28mpg on the road. Ride is one of the best. Chassis/suspension/transmission is based on MB ML/GLxxx.
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
^^^^
No. 10% is minimum for travel trailer type and you even want a little more just to make it more stable. Friction bar or other type of sway control is like putting a bandaid on a severed limb. It won't help if you don't have at least the minimum tongue weight.
References? From people with engineering degrees?
I've read that the rest of the world usually sets up their trailers with fairly low tongue weights because they use normal cars for towing. As shown above, it seems to work for them.
^^^^
No. 10% is minimum for travel trailer type and you even want a little more just to make it more stable. Friction bar or other type of sway control is like putting a bandaid on a severed limb. It won't help if you don't have at least the minimum tongue weight.
References? From people with engineering degrees?
I've read that the rest of the world usually sets up their trailers with fairly low tongue weights because they use normal cars for towing. As shown above, it seems to work for them.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
As shown above, it seems to work for them
Click on my link above (http://oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611). Hopefully, you'll return with a better understanding of the position you're trying to take.
As shown above, it seems to work for them
Click on my link above (http://oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-down-1609112611). Hopefully, you'll return with a better understanding of the position you're trying to take.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
^^^^
No. 10% is minimum for travel trailer type and you even want a little more just to make it more stable. Friction bar or other type of sway control is like putting a bandaid on a severed limb. It won't help if you don't have at least the minimum tongue weight.
References? From people with engineering degrees?
I've read that the rest of the world usually sets up their trailers with fairly low tongue weights because they use normal cars for towing. As shown above, it seems to work for them.
I am not an engineer on this topic and the 10% "rule" does seem not universal across all countries. I have heard that in Europe they use trailers designed for 5-8% tongue weight. In the US it is almost always recommended 10-15%. There are multiple references for 10-15% tongue weight in the US. Some I found in 5 min:
https://books.google.com/books?id=JgEAAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA94&dq=%22hitch+load%22#v=onepage&q=%22hitch%20load%22&f=false --> this one says that a GM study found 15% to be the most stable (its old from 1971).
Some great posts with math from Ron Gratz who I find is very knowledgeable on this subject:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/22277617/gotomsg/22282876.cfm#22282876
http://www.edccorp.com/library/TechRefPdfs/EDC-1082.pdf
Some more math for you:
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/14265335.cfm
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
^^^^
No. 10% is minimum for travel trailer type and you even want a little more just to make it more stable. Friction bar or other type of sway control is like putting a bandaid on a severed limb. It won't help if you don't have at least the minimum tongue weight.
References? From people with engineering degrees?
I've read that the rest of the world usually sets up their trailers with fairly low tongue weights because they use normal cars for towing. As shown above, it seems to work for them.
I am not an engineer on this topic and the 10% "rule" does seem not universal across all countries. I have heard that in Europe they use trailers designed for 5-8% tongue weight. In the US it is almost always recommended 10-15%. There are multiple references for 10-15% tongue weight in the US. Some I found in 5 min:
https://books.google.com/books?id=JgEAAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA94&dq=%22hitch+load%22#v=onepage&q=%22hitch%20load%22&f=false --> this one says that a GM study found 15% to be the most stable (its old from 1971).
Some great posts with math from Ron Gratz who I find is very knowledgeable on this subject:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/22277617/gotomsg/22282876.cfm#22282876
http://www.edccorp.com/library/TechRefPdfs/EDC-1082.pdf
Some more math for you:
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/14265335.cfm
Originally Posted By: CKN
He will be over payload (or right at it) even with most half-ton trucks.
He needs at least a 3/4 ton truck. As another poster suggested-he needs to open the driver's side door of the vehicles he is considering at look at the PAYLOAD NUMBER.
I don't think anyone needs a 3/4 ton rig to haul a 5000# camper. A 1500 Suburban can tow that pretty easy with a W-D hitch.....I wouldn't bumper pull a camper/TT without one. However there is truth in what your saying about the numbers.
2006 2wd Suburban with Tow Package....
GVWR 7000#
Payload Capacity 1731#
GCWR 13,000#
5000# camper with 15% on the tongue = 750#, 1731-750= 981# left for occupants & gear in the truck itself, Not much margin.
Lets say you max out the vehicle at 7000# (including tongue weight), 7,000# truck + 5,000# camper= 12,000#, So in theory you can still add 1000# to the camper in the form of gear & luggage (Pretending the GVWR of the camper is not exceeded)
In the end, These specs are VERY conservative! If a Suburban cant tow a 5,000 pound camper....Something is seriously wrong.
I used to have a Heartland Big Horn 3055 5th wheel, Weighed 10,400# dry, That I pulled with my '06 2500HD, Exceeded pin weight, & payload limits quite often with no ill effects.
He will be over payload (or right at it) even with most half-ton trucks.
He needs at least a 3/4 ton truck. As another poster suggested-he needs to open the driver's side door of the vehicles he is considering at look at the PAYLOAD NUMBER.
I don't think anyone needs a 3/4 ton rig to haul a 5000# camper. A 1500 Suburban can tow that pretty easy with a W-D hitch.....I wouldn't bumper pull a camper/TT without one. However there is truth in what your saying about the numbers.
2006 2wd Suburban with Tow Package....
GVWR 7000#
Payload Capacity 1731#
GCWR 13,000#
5000# camper with 15% on the tongue = 750#, 1731-750= 981# left for occupants & gear in the truck itself, Not much margin.
Lets say you max out the vehicle at 7000# (including tongue weight), 7,000# truck + 5,000# camper= 12,000#, So in theory you can still add 1000# to the camper in the form of gear & luggage (Pretending the GVWR of the camper is not exceeded)
In the end, These specs are VERY conservative! If a Suburban cant tow a 5,000 pound camper....Something is seriously wrong.
I used to have a Heartland Big Horn 3055 5th wheel, Weighed 10,400# dry, That I pulled with my '06 2500HD, Exceeded pin weight, & payload limits quite often with no ill effects.
Good information in those links, although I didn't find anything that explains the effects of an anti sway damper and the required tongue weight for stability.
Many of the UK caravanning sites say to add one if needed of course, which is more often is I assume, given that they run lower tongue weights.
Anyways, probably if we ever get a 4000lb trailer, and have something like a Pathfinder with a silly low payload, I'll run the tongue weight heavy enough to avoid sway problems, keep my speeds reasonable (65 and under) and not worry about going slightly over the payload ratings the odd time.
Also, as far as I can tell the highway traffic act in ontario doesn't seem to even mention manufacturer ratings on personal vehicles, just trailer weights(over 3200lbs needs brakes) and combined vehicle and trailer weights(over 10k lbs needs a yearly inspection ). If anyone can find something different I'd love to see it.
Many of the UK caravanning sites say to add one if needed of course, which is more often is I assume, given that they run lower tongue weights.
Anyways, probably if we ever get a 4000lb trailer, and have something like a Pathfinder with a silly low payload, I'll run the tongue weight heavy enough to avoid sway problems, keep my speeds reasonable (65 and under) and not worry about going slightly over the payload ratings the odd time.
Also, as far as I can tell the highway traffic act in ontario doesn't seem to even mention manufacturer ratings on personal vehicles, just trailer weights(over 3200lbs needs brakes) and combined vehicle and trailer weights(over 10k lbs needs a yearly inspection ). If anyone can find something different I'd love to see it.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: CKN
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
An Equalizer hitch doesn't make the weight go away. The weight will still be (mostly) on the rear and front axle of the tow vehicle (again-adding to the payload amount). You cannot take 500 pounds of hitch weight off the tongue of the trailer. It's not possible.
The issue is being overloaded is if your in an "at fault" accident. Any half-wit Lawyer will check out the payload capacity of said vehicle. If your overloaded you will be sued and your Lawyer can explain to the judge about how you know more than the engineers that designed the vehicle and how you can pull/load XXXX amount of weight in na safe manner.
Originally Posted By: CKN
None of the above recommendations consider payload. A Pathfinder, Suburban, Trail Blazer are not enough vehicle due to PAYLOAD REQUIREMENTS.
All of the above vehicles will max out payload. A 2500 Suburban would work.
How about an equalizing hitch? Or just balance the trailer to put 200lbs on the hitch? I know there's no regulations here on how to load your trailer, and I doubt any state gets that picky either on regulations for using a RV trailer used for personal use. If you ever get into an accident severe enough that someone starts weighing things, you can say that your trailer was balanced at least and your vehicle wasn't overloaded.
If anyone has an explanation of why some vehicles have such low payload ratings, I'd love to see it. Personally I'd have no issue taking 4 buddies and camping gear in a Pathfinder, even though its "overloaded". No insurance company is going deny a claim based on that, atleast up here. That's what our liability coverage is for, you doing something dumb, afterall, the driver doing something dumb is the cause of most accidents. 99% of every accident on a highway starts with someone speeding because everyone speeds... Overloading a private vehicle isn't any different.
An Equalizer hitch doesn't make the weight go away. The weight will still be (mostly) on the rear and front axle of the tow vehicle (again-adding to the payload amount). You cannot take 500 pounds of hitch weight off the tongue of the trailer. It's not possible.
The issue is being overloaded is if your in an "at fault" accident. Any half-wit Lawyer will check out the payload capacity of said vehicle. If your overloaded you will be sued and your Lawyer can explain to the judge about how you know more than the engineers that designed the vehicle and how you can pull/load XXXX amount of weight in na safe manner.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: CKN
He will be over payload (or right at it) even with most half-ton trucks.
He needs at least a 3/4 ton truck. As another poster suggested-he needs to open the driver's side door of the vehicles he is considering at look at the PAYLOAD NUMBER.
I don't think anyone needs a 3/4 ton rig to haul a 5000# camper. A 1500 Suburban can tow that pretty easy with a W-D hitch.....I wouldn't bumper pull a camper/TT without one. However there is truth in what your saying about the numbers.
2006 2wd Suburban with Tow Package....
GVWR 7000#
Payload Capacity 1731#
GCWR 13,000#
5000# camper with 15% on the tongue = 750#, 1731-750= 981# left for occupants & gear in the truck itself, Not much margin.
Lets say you max out the vehicle at 7000# (including tongue weight), 7,000# truck + 5,000# camper= 12,000#, So in theory you can still add 1000# to the camper in the form of gear & luggage (Pretending the GVWR of the camper is not exceeded)
In the end, These specs are VERY conservative! If a Suburban cant tow a 5,000 pound camper....Something is seriously wrong.
I used to have a Heartland Big Horn 3055 5th wheel, Weighed 10,400# dry, That I pulled with my '06 2500HD, Exceeded pin weight, & payload limits quite often with no ill effects.
I have a 2011 Silverado Crew Cab with the 5.3 and 2WD It has a payload of 1444 pounds(AND I HAVE THE "TOW PKG.). The tongue weight of his trailer will be about 750 pounds. Put 4 additional passengers in my truck, and add all the stuff you take for camping (Bikes,Ice Chest, Firewood, Dog, Easy ups, etc.,) and explain how I am not going to exceed the approximately 700 pounds left under my payload.
Most Half-ton trucks DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH PAYLOAD as I have previously stated.
I have a 30 foot ultra light that comes in at 4,500 pounds and the truck with just the wife and I. I towed it around the country about 2 years ago and I wouldn't have wanted any more weight in the truck nor a heavier trailer.
Originally Posted By: CKN
He will be over payload (or right at it) even with most half-ton trucks.
He needs at least a 3/4 ton truck. As another poster suggested-he needs to open the driver's side door of the vehicles he is considering at look at the PAYLOAD NUMBER.
I don't think anyone needs a 3/4 ton rig to haul a 5000# camper. A 1500 Suburban can tow that pretty easy with a W-D hitch.....I wouldn't bumper pull a camper/TT without one. However there is truth in what your saying about the numbers.
2006 2wd Suburban with Tow Package....
GVWR 7000#
Payload Capacity 1731#
GCWR 13,000#
5000# camper with 15% on the tongue = 750#, 1731-750= 981# left for occupants & gear in the truck itself, Not much margin.
Lets say you max out the vehicle at 7000# (including tongue weight), 7,000# truck + 5,000# camper= 12,000#, So in theory you can still add 1000# to the camper in the form of gear & luggage (Pretending the GVWR of the camper is not exceeded)
In the end, These specs are VERY conservative! If a Suburban cant tow a 5,000 pound camper....Something is seriously wrong.
I used to have a Heartland Big Horn 3055 5th wheel, Weighed 10,400# dry, That I pulled with my '06 2500HD, Exceeded pin weight, & payload limits quite often with no ill effects.
I have a 2011 Silverado Crew Cab with the 5.3 and 2WD It has a payload of 1444 pounds(AND I HAVE THE "TOW PKG.). The tongue weight of his trailer will be about 750 pounds. Put 4 additional passengers in my truck, and add all the stuff you take for camping (Bikes,Ice Chest, Firewood, Dog, Easy ups, etc.,) and explain how I am not going to exceed the approximately 700 pounds left under my payload.
Most Half-ton trucks DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH PAYLOAD as I have previously stated.
I have a 30 foot ultra light that comes in at 4,500 pounds and the truck with just the wife and I. I towed it around the country about 2 years ago and I wouldn't have wanted any more weight in the truck nor a heavier trailer.
Last edited:
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