2015 F-250 Rear Axle Mag-Hytec Cover Installation

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: roadrunner1
You don't have to worry about fluid replacement as per the manual the original fluid is lifetime unless submerged in water. The covers do look nice, on my '07 I put on the aluminum cover that they started using in '08 Super Dutys. Its more for looks than anything else as Ford determined that the extra cooling wasn't needed. They did extensive testing at Eisenhower pass with a trailer loaded to max capacity and they couldn't get the fluid to exceed 303f, which is well within its operating range (75w-140).
Sorry, I do not subscribe to "lifetime fluid" intervals and I want the extra fluid capacity provided by the cover.

 

[DoubleWasp]

Diff looks absolutely terrible, and you should have left your fluid in 1000 times longer.

 

[zeng]

The metal filings I was referring to is at LHS top , Outer Diameter edge of ring gear ..

http://imageshack.com/a/img907/5766/NCMXBX.jpg

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: zeng
The metal filings I was referring to is at LHS top , Outer Diameter edge of ring gear ..

http://imageshack.com/a/img907/5766/NCMXBX.jpg
Those are not filings. This is "fuzz" from the paper towels that I used to clean the inside of the housing.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: Rand
All those trucks(ford) get muddy gear oil fast on the factory fill from the break in mostly. That pattern looks perfect. I changed a few at 30000 and there was so much silt made me want to do it at 10000miles. After the first gear oil change it takes a long time to get dirty again. I only mention ford as I havent done much with chevy or ram.
Agreed on all counts! The UOAs on my 2010 FX4 support exactly what you are saying. I have performed early changes on Ford, Chevy, and Dodge and with few exceptions they all make a fair amount of break-in metal. IMHO, it is to be expected as the ring and pinion wear in to each other, but subsequent changes will see less and less metal even if the OCIs are extended between them.

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: zeng
The metal filings I was referring to is at LHS top , Outer Diameter edge of ring gear ..

http://imageshack.com/a/img907/5766/NCMXBX.jpg
Those are not filings. This is "fuzz" from the paper towels that I used to clean the inside of the housing.


My bad ...

 

[zeng]

Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: Rand
All those trucks(ford) get muddy gear oil fast on the factory fill from the break in mostly. That pattern looks perfect. I changed a few at 30000 and there was so much silt made me want to do it at 10000miles. After the first gear oil change it takes a long time to get dirty again. I only mention ford as I havent done much with chevy or ram.
Agreed on all counts! The UOAs on my 2010 FX4 support exactly what you are saying. I have performed early changes on Ford, Chevy, and Dodge and with few exceptions they all make a fair amount of break-in metal. IMHO, it is to be expected as the ring and pinion wear in to each other, but subsequent changes will see less and less metal even if the OCIs are extended between them.



+1

What Rand said mirrors my personal observations as well.

With increased oil sump volume of 6 quartz(from 4 quartz) and consequently lower opearating temperature, your operating viscosity may further increase to 90-105 cSt or thereabouts , thus further enhancing components longevity and wear protection. If you so wish, increased OCI's as well.

 

[cdm1993]

I apologize if I am reviving this thread. My Mag-Hytec diff cover just came in the mail this week for my GM 14 bolt. Did you use any RTV for the install?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: cdm1993
I apologize if I am reviving this thread. My Mag-Hytec diff cover just came in the mail this week for my GM 14 bolt. Did you use any RTV for the install?
The thread is current. No, you do not need to use any RTV for the install because Mag-Hytec covers use an o-ring to seal against the axle housing. I lubed the o-ring with a little grease and used anti-seize on the cover bolts. I also used a torque wrench to tighten the cover bolts as opposed to just hand tightening them and I have never had a leak on a Mag-Hytec.

The only other tips I have is to insert something (like a very thin bladed screwdriver) at the TOP--NOT the bottom of the housing to break the seal of the existing gasket (in case the face of the housing is slightly gouged; this will prevent a leak because it will be in an area that is not constantly submerged in oil) and to cover the carrier and ring gear with a cloth to prevent the gasket material from falling into the housing as you clean it. Enjoy it--your maintenance on the axle just became infinitely easier.

 

[cdm1993]

Good to go. Appreciate the reply and the tips.

 

[wtd]

While it is a different rear end, when I first changed the rear diff oil on my 2014 Mustang GT at about 3,600 miles to install Ford's aluminum finned rear diff cover, My factory fluid was totally gray in color and looked horrible.

This rear also uses Ford's lifetime 75-140 fluid with LS additive.

I was later told that the reason my fluid was gray was because of the LS additive making it that color. I don't know if that is true or not but I'm glad I changed the fluid out early.

Wayne

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: wtd
This rear also uses Ford's lifetime 75-140 fluid with LS additive. I was later told that the reason my fluid was gray was because of the LS additive making it that color. I don't know if that is true or not but I'm glad I changed the fluid out early.
My 2010 FX4 had the gray fluid that you are talking about, however, this F-250 did not. One would need to really understand what lifetime means with regards to this fluid. Based on what I saw in my old F-150 I would not run this fluid past 100k. For a vehicle which is not exposed to towing or the like it may indeed last a lifetime however, I do not subscribe to that notion. All fluids wear out, but the question is at what point do they wear out and without testing it how would you know. For me, it is an easy choice, I always change them out early.

 

[wtd]

I'm also not a believer in lifetime fluids and is why I also change them out. Based on what the original diff fluid looked like in my Mustang, I would never leave it in forever.

I remember years ago when I first changed the original front diff fluid out on my 98 Chevy K1500, it was milky white looking and the truck had never been in deep water. I'm assuming since I didn't use four wheel drive that much, the condensation buildup must have caused it to look like that. I think I had 15-20,000 miles on the truck when I changed it.

Wayne

 

[bdcardinal]

When I drained the factory diff fluid in my '14 at 5K miles it still looked a bit dark, but not grey at all. Of course mine uses a Torsen so it did not have a limited slip additive since that would just damage the unit.