'16 F150 5.0 First Time Oil Consumption

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Apr 2, 2015
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Missouri
I guess to start I have a 2016 F150 with the 5.0. Purchased used in Nov 2017 with 48,XXX miles on it and just about to roll over 145K on it now. Day after purchase I put in a FS oil and a filter of my liking and have maintained it closely with plans to be kept long term (plan for both my boys to drive it through high school). Has been the best and my favorite truck I have owned so far with minimal issues.

Over the weekend I was changing the oil on my wife's car and decided to check the level on mine while hers was draining. Much to my surprise, the oil was just barely touching the dipstick and to get back to an appropriate level took 2 quarts. This is the first time a large volume of oil (to me at least) has been consumed/burnt by the truck. I have added roughly a .5 quart before to get back to the level I like, but never had the level that low before.

This is my third round of Valvoline EP 5W30 in the truck, I am just over 6K on this OCI and was planning on extending the OCI to around 9,500 to see how the UOA looked afterwards. The previous 2 rounds UOA's (pic attached) warranted the shot to go a little further, but I am curious now, should I abandon this OCI and send off a sample to Blackstone to see if anything is revealed?

Or stick with it and the "random" loss is credited more to what is discussed in this thread? Oil sheared, got thin, made it's way past seals, burnt off, and as the lower level of oil couldn't do as it did before, it kept burning off.

The only thing that has changed about the engine was right at the end of the last OCI I changed the PCV Valve as the one on the dirty side of the truck was still the original and very loose and gunked up. Discovered while cleaning my catch can. Maybe a possible contributor to the issue?

Thanks in advance for any help!



F150 Blackstone Report.jpg
 
7.6-8k mile OCIs aren't plans for long term ownership.

You already have oil consumption and want to extend the UOA? and the PCV was gunked up?

You are going the wrong way with OCIs. If you want long term ownership, you should shorten the OCI's to 5k and skip UOA data, which for many is a false sense of security.

I'd start running the higher hths 30 grades and even the 0w40's.
 
7.6-8k mile OCIs aren't plans for long term ownership.

You already have oil consumption and want to extend the UOA? and the PCV was gunked up?

You are going the wrong way with OCIs. If you want long term ownership, you should shorten the OCI's to 5k and skip UOA data, which for many is a false sense of security.

I'd start running the higher hths 30 grades and even the 0w40's.
I think a lot of people lose track of the fact that UOAs tell you about the oil...not the vehicle.
 
My chevy did not like regular valvoline syn. I had a similar issue many years back when I switched to Valvoline. Switches brands consumption went way down, tried Valvoline Hm no problems either.
 
7.6-8k mile OCIs aren't plans for long term ownership.
My OCI's have shortened compared to when I first bought the truck (I was running Amsoil and going to roughly 9,500 miles as my understanding was the oil is more than capable and my OLM went to 10,000). Since discovering BITOG and stopping Amsoil about 45K miles ago, my OCI average has shortened to 6,455 miles. Only going to 7,919 and 7,565 the last OCI's because I was curious how long the Valvoline EP could go. I am just a couple hundred miles over 6K on this OCI and honestly will probably go ahead and change it by 7K, when I get the time in the next few weeks.

A genuine question, why is 7-8K OCI not a plan for long term ownership if the oil is showing it is doing what it should? (Treat me like a 5th grader here and dumb it down, please. LOL)

You already have oil consumption and want to extend the UOA? and the PCV was gunked up?
This was the very first time the truck has consumed oil like this. Most I have ever added during an OCI was roughly 1/2 - 3/4 quart to get the level back to where I like it to be on the dipstick, and I assumed that loss to be normal from what I have read here on the forums.
The PCV was the original (132K on it) and from what I have read from Ford, they are recommended to be replaced every 30-35K. So not surprised it was gunked up (internals did not move as freely like the new one) and the o-ring degraded enough for it to fit loose and wobble.

You are going the wrong way with OCIs. If you want long term ownership, you should shorten the OCI's to 5k and skip UOA data, which for many is a false sense of security.
2 reasons for the UOA's: 1) I was looking to see if there were any signs that pointed to any failure(s) or issue(s) in the engine that needed to be addressed before major failure. High level of metals, antifreeze, fuel, etc. 2) Was simply curious how far the Valvoline EP could go. (Will consider that experiment done)

If there is reason from this recent consumption to do one more UOA with this OC, I will, otherwise I don't have plans to do another until about 200K just to make sure all is at is should be still.

I'd start running the higher hths 30 grades and even the 0w40's.
Which oils would you consider to be higher HTHS 30's? Anything over 3.5? I have access to Edge A3/B4 and if I remember correctly, because of one of the approvals it has it gives it a minimum HTHS of 3.5.
 
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Oil capable? Means nothing. The engine, weather, and driving style need to be capable.
When I use Redline, Amsoil, Royalpurple.... my interval for the 2.4GDI is still 3750 miles, which is the same if I use store brand generic conventional oil, because the engine is not capable, and driving style definitely isn't.

Since you already have crud'd up a PCV valve, and are experience oil consumption, your NEW interval should be 4000 miles until you clean out the engine and reduce consumption. Check oil level frequently and keep it full always.

Cheap UOA is the false sense of security that too many use... other than excessive fuel or antifreeze, borderline useless. You'd need TAN, oxidation, nitration, iso/particle counts, for a better picture.

A3/B4 is a good start. I'd use it at your next interval, or when you run out of your current API swill.

To thicken thinner oil, add a bottle of STP synthetic(the gold bottle) or their ceramic, just one bottle per interval, to top off the oil when its a pint low the 1st time.


Any of the 0w40's and 5w40's are worth considering too. The euro oils from ANY brand available at local stores and walmart are a good start. Look at the specs as many 0w30's and 5w30's have the 3.5+ hths, as do various 10w30 and 5w30 HDEO diesel oils.
 
Oil capable? Means nothing. The engine, weather, and driving style need to be capable.
When I use Redline, Amsoil, Royalpurple.... my interval for the 2.4GDI is still 3750 miles, which is the same if I use store brand generic conventional oil, because the engine is not capable, and driving style definitely isn't.

Since you already have crud'd up a PCV valve, and are experience oil consumption, your NEW interval should be 4000 miles until you clean out the engine and reduce consumption. Check oil level frequently and keep it full always.

Cheap UOA is the false sense of security that too many use... other than excessive fuel or antifreeze, borderline useless. You'd need TAN, oxidation, nitration, iso/particle counts, for a better picture.

A3/B4 is a good start. I'd use it at your next interval, or when you run out of your current API swill.

To thicken thinner oil, add a bottle of STP synthetic(the gold bottle) or their ceramic, just one bottle per interval, to top off the oil when its a pint low the 1st time.


Any of the 0w40's and 5w40's are worth considering too. The euro oils from ANY brand available at local stores and walmart are a good start. Look at the specs as many 0w30's and 5w30's have the 3.5+ hths, as do various 10w30 and 5w30 HDEO diesel oils.
Thank you 🙌 I appreciate the info!
I don't have a stash of oil so I'll spend a few days looking at PDS/PDI sheets of what I find is available in the area to do my next change with. I know the Edge 5W30 A3/B4 is available at Walmart, but I would imagine there are some Euro options available there as well and at O'Reilly and AutoZone.
Curious, you have any favorites you lean towards using?
 
No brand favorites
QuakerState 5w40 is the discount winner at walmart for now
Mobil 1 FS 0W40 is available near me for $26 5qt and interests me.
Going up to 13.8 KV100 and probably close to 3.6-3.8 HTHS over the 10.7 KV100 and 3.2 HTHS now, will there be any differences I may notice performance wise?
 
I had a '12 5.0 in an F150. Also had an '18 with one. Some 18 5.0's use oil, but not normal for a '16. Watch it. Maybe it's a 1 off.

I was following my girl about a year ago on the interstate. Every time she would hammer down, her Land Rover spat out a significant blue puff. Twas burning about a quart every 500 miles
 
I had a '12 5.0 in an F150. Also had an '18 with one. Some 18 5.0's use oil, but not normal for a '16. Watch it. Maybe it's a 1 off.

I was following my girl about a year ago on the interstate. Every time she would hammer down, her Land Rover spat out a significant blue puff. Twas burning about a quart every 500 miles
Yeah, we have an '18 and a '19 at work, both with the 5.0, and both fall into the production range that has the excessive oil consumption TSB. The '18 is about to go to the dealer to go through the process for them to document the excessive usage and then do whatever the fix for it will be when enough documentation/proof has been collected. The '19 hasn't really used any oil excessively so we just keep an eye on the level and add when needed.
 
Oil should be changed regularly, not because it wears out or gets low on additives/TBN but because it gets contaminated with wear particles, unfiltered air dust particles, blow-by components, fuel, etc., and most oil filters do little or nothing to fight this contamination. If a vehicle will be kept long-term then the oil needs to be serviced more frequently. A DIY full synthetic oil service is typically $40 or less. Even if you drive a lot, <$40 every few months is CHEAP compared to a rebuild or even the cumulative cost of top-up oil -- additional oil required because longer OCIs resulted in an oil burner. It just chaps me a little when someone gets a strong healthy vehicle they plan to keep long-term and then this happens. Yes I know, the oil minder and the oil analyses said things are doing OK. Still this probably could have been avoided, and we see it too often. CHANGE YOUR OIL.
 
I'll take input from anyone with knowledge on this, but have been reading through lots of PI sheets and I'm curious if you all might agree that Mobil 1 has a typo on the KV@100 for their FS 0W40 and really meant 12.8?
For comparison I will list some 40's I've looked at:

Mobil 1 FS 0W40 KV@100 13.8
Mobil 1 FS 5W40 KV@100 13.2
QS 5W40 Euro KV@100 13.3
Edge 0W40 PA KV@100 13.2
Edge 5W40 A3/B4 KV@100 13.4

Side note: did call Mobil 1 and spoke with a nice gentleman who is looking into it and said he will e-mail me what he finds out.
 
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