Is Amsoil really the best motor oil?

[Pablo]

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if I have to change the full-flow oil filter every six months and top off with make-up oil and use lube control and no telling what other additives and install a by-pass filter and do a UOA every six months and buy it from some half-cocked MLM salesman

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That is a bit of an exageration, if I do say so myself. Why would you need additives? None of my cars have a by-pass filter. Other than interest, no rerquirement to do a UOA. I may be half cocked, but I need to call you on this one. Sorry.

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Originally posted by crashz:
One thing that has me scrathing my head is that Amsoil has the lowest Noack ratings, yet it thickens up when run for a length ot time. Why would an oil that has the least evaporation loss, thicken up so much?
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Because it's thickening from unchecked oxidation (per Terry) and not from boil off.

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First of all I will agree that the older formulas and in particular the 5W-30 ASL did thicken a bit in SOME cars. Perhaps this was some oxidation....but "thicken so much" and "unchecked oxidation" are not a good word choices. I honestly have not had any Amsoil motor oil "thicken" in my cars and oxidation was low. The thing that other smart folks observe on "thickening out of grade" and have posted on this numerous times....when an oil starts high in a range, it doesn't take much of a percent change to go into the next grade. Perhaps this is why it's acceptable per API.

 

[ekpolk]

Another direction on the same question: I'm not sure that "best" can be meaningfully applied, at least as to multiple different cars. I had a very nice 5k run with ASL in my V-6 Camry, subjectively. The GC I'm now trying produces less mileage and more noise at higher rpm. Alas, I failed to sample the ASL when it was done.

I'm sure there are some engines for which particular Amsoil formulae are wonderful. Likewise, I imagine there are some engines that do better with other oils. One of the consistent lessons I'm taking away from BITOG is that characterizations like "best" or "worst" are, with respect to one oil or another, pretty much a car by car thing. Sure, there are probably some generally good and disastrously bad oils out there, but I think (read: just my opinion) that each of us needs to make these quality judgments for ourselves and our particular engines.

 

[JohnnyO]

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Originally posted by Palut:
Again, I have nothing against the oil itself, I simply hate the marketing.

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I'm one of the marketing people (and lead Amsoil rep basher)

on another automotive site I moderate. Someone occasionally finds us and proceeds to tout Amsoil and their personal site as a cure-all in every forum for everything from poor gas mileage to tire leaks, bad radio reception, dandruff, gout, and lombago.
Funny thing is, if one of them would ever sign on as a sponsor and/or give our members a discount, they'd probably sell a fair bit of the stuff. Never had any takers.

Personally I think it's a good oil for someone who puts on A LOT of miles in a year and can't be bothered with monthly oil changes.

[ June 10, 2004, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: JohnnyO ]

 

[doyall]

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That is a bit of an exageration, if I do say so myself. Why would you need additives? None of my cars have a by-pass filter. Other than interest, no rerquirement to do a UOA. I may be half cocked, but I need to call you on this one. Sorry.

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Yes it was an exaggeration but to only to some degree. Amsoil agressively markets its oil for extended drains, does it not? Does Amsoil not recommend a filter change during an extended drain? Will a top-off not be required? Without doing a UOA or two how do you know whether the operational parameters and equipment condition are conducive to an extended drain? Another poster suggested Lube Control to prevent oxidative thickening. Amsoil themselves sell and agressively recommend additives and by-pass filters, do they not? Is not Amsoil among the higher priced of the 'premium' oils? Without a lot of time, experimentation, trouble and expense how else is one to determine whether or not an extended drain is achieving the desired results. My overarching point is that with all the different combination of factors necessary to consider to determine if Amsoil is right for any given application, regular oil changes with any other quality oil will get you to the same place with a whole lot less aggravation and probably little or no more expense.

PS: My exception to the "half-cocked salesman" remark was directed specifically at you and the other site sponsors who are extremely responsible in the stating of opinions and giving of advice. If only all Amsoil proponents were as responsible.

 

[Pablo]

doyall - Thank you. You are very correct about the filter and top off. Actually Amsoil doesn't sell any oil additives. And they never say you must have a By-pass filter.

But I get your point. It's not for you, and that's fine. For me, for example my turbo requires a dino oil change (per the book) every 3000 miles and the oil filter is a bear...so...I use Amsoil and use the Amsoil OCI for this car, which is 10,000 miles. Piece of cake. I did a 20K OCI on my newer Volvo. Dang it was sweet....but I was worried the whole time, I will admit!!! I can't say any other "quality" oil will get me there.

 

[avi1777]

eben- one of amsoil salesmans said in one of he's videos while he was pouring oil into an engine"you can feel the protection"...OK.
I use amsoil mainly because of the high tbn it has.

 

[farrarfan1]

 

[OilReport99]

eben- one of amsoil salesmans said in one of he's videos while he was pouring oil into an engine"you can feel the protection"...OK.
I use amsoil mainly because of the high tbn it has.

Did you really need to revive this thread after 16 years?

 

[Astro14]

Avi - if you wish to discuss AMSOIL, let’s pick a thread that’s more relevant, one that’s not 16 years old. Start your own.

thanks