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Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5329156 01/21/20 09:41 PM
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bbhero Online Content
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What you are getting at is this I believe...

Guys... I have a group 24f battery in my Nissan Altima VQ right now that is rated at 550 CCA at 0°F...

That rating obviously drops as the ambient temperature drops.... So at say -15°F my battery may well be only able to produce say 400 CCA.... And say at -30°F it may produce 275 CCA... And at -40 it may only produce 200 CCA... Any colder than that it would be a good idea to use a plug in system.

So in region's like where the op lives where it was -35 °F just last year... A higher CCA battery is truly necessary because of amperage drop off related to very cold temperatures observed there.


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Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5329163 01/21/20 09:55 PM
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Dave9 Offline
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Heh, once again we seem to have drifted off the topic which was not opinions on whether someone should get a larger battery - That is ALREADY the intent.

The answer is no, a plastic tray is not necessary but in the long term you may suffer faster corrosion of the metal under the battery if you don't have one. This is a long term effect, you can go ahead and get the larger battery now and then get around to getting the tray later, or even make one out of a piece of (non-brittle) plastic if you're handy fabricating this type of thing, though if others are right about the low price (or from a junkyard) then it hardly seems worth the bother to roll your own.

Last edited by Dave9; 01/21/20 09:55 PM.
Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: Dave9] #5329164 01/21/20 09:57 PM
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littlehulkster Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Dave9
Heh, once again we seem to have drifted off the topic which was not opinions on whether someone should get a larger battery - That is ALREADY the intent.

The answer is no, a plastic tray is not necessary but in the long term you may suffer faster corrosion of the metal under the battery if you don't have one. This is a long term effect, you can go ahead and get the larger battery now and then get around to getting the tray later, or even make one out of a piece of (non-brittle) plastic if you're handy fabricating this type of thing, though if others are right about the low price (or from a junkyard) then it hardly seems worth the bother to roll your own.


If I was to get an AGM battery, I could avoid that corrosion entirely, right?

Last edited by littlehulkster; 01/21/20 09:57 PM.

2015 Mazda3 I 2.0
Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5329212 01/22/20 02:58 AM
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Char Baby Offline
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You don't necessarily need an AGM battery as there are many new Lead Acid Batteries that are also sealed.

I prefer lead acid batteries with the removal caps. Maybe I'm still old school but, I like to keep an eye on my acid level and keep it above the lead plates and use a Tender/maintainer as well.

I've been trying to learn as much as I can about AGM batteries and what I've gathered is...
AGM batteries have a deeper drain down/deeper cycle than a traditional lead acid battery. But they're not a "deep cycle" battery(persay) like marine batteries are. They're somewhere in between the traditional lead acid battery and the deep cycle/marine battery; which is also lead acid.

Also, AGM batteries will have less(if any) spillage in case of car crash(similar to a gel battery) but, they're not a Gel Battery. I think that the Absorbent Glass Matt(AGM) will hold the acid from spilling. AGM batteries have some advantages over lead acid batteries. However, I'm not sure what their disadvantages are except that they may need a different charging system(alternator) and/or, don't like traditional(old style) battery chargers(charger must say, Lead Acid & AGM). Also, AGM cost more than the top line lead acid batteries. The AGM are more expensive but not unaffordable.

Anywaaaaay, this is the way I understand it so, I hope I said all of this correctly. ^^^ smile

When my daughter bought her new battery for her '15 Civic(as I mentioned earlier), Walmart(W*M) EverStart MAXX is sealed where as Advance Auto Parts(AAP) WearEver GOLD has the removal caps(both lead acid/51-R). Both the W*M & AAP battery have the same spec's & warranty.

Last edited by Char Baby; 01/22/20 03:26 AM.

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Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5329222 01/22/20 04:09 AM
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Driz Offline
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Honda’s always had small batteries. We owned 4 over time and ran them yo a rusty death and I dealt with others regularly. when I could I just chuckled the biggest size that fit in there being in the North, never any problems. I set the bigger ones on a small block of panel / plywood.
Be thankful you can put a big one in. The last civic I had left no room whatsoever sandwiched into a nook on the firewall . Tiny battery about the size of a big Harley bike. In all the years and hundreds of thousands of miles none of my trays rusted out, just rust typical of the surroundings tray or not. Just flush it out under there once in a while as it’s a crud collection point .

Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5329259 01/22/20 06:23 AM
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Char Baby Offline
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My older Hondas used to come with respectable size batteries(Group 35 size IIRC). But now, they're coming with batteries so small that, once the hold down bracket is off, I can lift out the battery with one hand...Grab & lift, there's nothing to it. And I can do it with my bad hand.

But as far as the metal battery trays go?
I haven't had a metal tray rot out in way >40 years when cars were designed so you could reach anything but were unprotected against the Western NY State winter salt.

Last edited by Char Baby; 01/22/20 06:28 AM.

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Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5329533 01/22/20 12:59 PM
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My sister has a 2005 crv with the tiny group51r, in Florida, originally sold in Florida.
I saw that a much larger battery could fit in the space, but not inspected the tray.

The 2 year old interstate, an hour after engine shutdown was reading only 12.73v, and it seems to crank slower than it should. I would expect surface charge voltage to last longer after driving, but each battery is different,with many variables affecting surface charge voltage retention.

I'll hold it at 14.7v for several hours until amperage stops tapering, Then back off voltage to 13.6 until she needs to goto work the next day . It has not seen an external charging source since I was here last year.

I'll likely be 2500 miles away when it fails, but she got ripped off on the interstate 51r, I saw a 24 in a local AP store for ~100$ and she's claiming twice that expended to have it replaced last time.



Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5329617 01/22/20 02:54 PM
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littlehulkster Offline OP
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Yeah I was going to fix this today, then it snowed.

I guess I never considered a small piece of plywood.

I have no idea why Honda switched to these garbage batteries, even the best ones are pretty woeful for a modern electronics laden car. The really dumb thing is, as I said before, the metal tray and tiedowns can clearly fit a MUCH larger battery. You'd think the warranty claims in northern states would be enough to dissuade them, but I guess not.


2015 Mazda3 I 2.0
Re: Are the plastic battery trays necessary? [Re: littlehulkster] #5330580 01/23/20 06:44 PM
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littlehulkster Offline OP
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Well, got it fixed.

If any of you have a CRV with battery issues, a size 24F will fit. It's tight, but it works. Autozone had the tray I needed and everything just went in. Got it all tightened down nicely, the hood shuts fine and the car runs great, so I think it's a problem solved. The 24 is longer, but it's only maybe a tiny amount taller, so it wasn't a problem fitting it in. Finally figured out how Honda's strange battery wiring harness works, too.

Last edited by littlehulkster; 01/23/20 06:47 PM.

2015 Mazda3 I 2.0
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