It's been a few years since I have done brakes. To the point where I cannot remember if there were clips on the last brakes I did. One was a1994 Camry wagon. They were disc however.
I have read up on prepping the caliper holder. I filed the areas where the clips go to remove rust. Then painted just that area with primer. Two days later I coated those areas with M77 and pushed in new clips.
With no lube on clips I pushed in new Wagner pads. The pads were a little difficult to push in put I attribute that to tension from new clips. But not sure. The pads are tight in the clips but I can get them out by hand with a little force. I would not need a hammer.
So how tight are pads supposed to be in the clips?
Do I use never-seize on caliper bracket bolt? It seemed a little difficult to remove when pulling off caliper bracket.
I think everything you wrote is exactly what I did with my father's Subaru with the exception that I used OEM parts and Permatex purple. I also cleaned the bores of the slide pins with cotton swabs and brake cleaner until all the factory lube was gone. I only did this because I used sil-glide and don't know long term how different lubricants would react to each other. Besides reapplying lube to the pin, I also made sure there was a coating around the gland where the boot seats as that was a weak point with moisture actually making its way past and corroding the fronts.
My pads felt tight but you can move them along the clips so I was satisfied the fitup was correct. When I reinstalled the prepped caliper over the new pads and tightened properly, everything moved with no binding.
I personally do use antisieze on the bracket bolts too and typically don't need to reapply everytime I remove. Just a tiny drop on the leading edge of the threads.
The previous rear pads were advance auto gold and were gone in 40k and noisy which seemed strange the rears wear that fast but don't know if Subaru AWD has anything to do with that. It's been over a year and my rear OEM pads have given me no trouble thus far.