Ditching 0W20?
- Thread starter Georgiey22
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I'm rocking the Redline oil 0w20 and have no worries at all. Getting the best of both worlds. In a short trip the 0w20 pcmo full synthetic probably works fine. If I was worried I would go up or 1:1 0w20 0w30 as Dave at Redline has stated as fine. Though I ran 150,000 miles on 0w20 Grp 3 with Lubegard Biotech or Ceratec without a hitch and my UOA samples back it up. Not only that but added performance parts and increased my driving and the right pedal and all was fine too.
George,it sounds like you do some spirited driving. Go with 5w30, I think it will give you a little added protection, higher hths. As far as startup goes there will be no difference between the two oils. It would have to get a lot colder for there to be any benefit , a lot colder!
Before you ditch the 20wt you might want to see this post about a 1954 Buick using a 20wt back then during the winter time from a respected member here on BITOG.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/u...nteresting-find-in-dads-shop#Post4921660
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/u...nteresting-find-in-dads-shop#Post4921660
The 20's of the day had a higher HTHS, and the engines where not tuned anywhere near like what today's are. I do think a straight 20 grade would be an interesting oil to play with though.
Using a 30 grade will be fine it's not like the OP is getting into 70 grade territory and the difference will not be measured by the engine.
I switched my J35 V-6 Accord to 5W-30 and never looked back -- the engine is definitely quieter than on 5/0W-20. I'm even thinking about trying the Mobil 1 0W-40. The same Honda V-6 engine in Australia is specified for 5W-30 and 10W-40 oils.
Honda engines does not need any higher viscosity than xx-30 and it is the best viscosity for honda engines according to many owner manuals in diffrent areas. Marin, motorcykle, cars.
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It would be interesting to see the oil spec page in the owner's manual for the K24 equipped Accord for other parts of the world.
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/mobil_au/ Here is what Mobil recommends in Australia.
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
It would be interesting to see the oil spec page in the owner's manual for the K24 equipped Accord for other parts of the world.
What is this irrational vendetta you have with thicker for everything? It really does not make any sense whatsoever. This is America the engine is tested here with the recommended grade in conditions the majority here will never submit their car to and when a vehicle fails it rarely is due to lubrication. So this obsession which borders on religion is not healthy nor is it productive.
It would be interesting to see the oil spec page in the owner's manual for the K24 equipped Accord for other parts of the world.
What is this irrational vendetta you have with thicker for everything? It really does not make any sense whatsoever. This is America the engine is tested here with the recommended grade in conditions the majority here will never submit their car to and when a vehicle fails it rarely is due to lubrication. So this obsession which borders on religion is not healthy nor is it productive.
Originally Posted by hatt
The engines also didn't last very long. Those guys were bragging about how good the car was if it had 70k and hadn't been overhauled yet.
As one who was there then, even engines with 10-40 didn't last much longer than 70K without an overhaul.
The engines also didn't last very long. Those guys were bragging about how good the car was if it had 70k and hadn't been overhauled yet.
As one who was there then, even engines with 10-40 didn't last much longer than 70K without an overhaul.
These engines whether they run on 0w20 in Cheyenne Wyoming or 15w40 in Coober Pedy Australia will still be running after many miles/kilometer and years. The point that they run a different grade elsewhere is irrelevant. In fact, 0w20 is becoming more and more available in places where 10w30 was the standard.
Oil temp and pressure is more important. And the most wear comes from cold starts.
Originally Posted by Shannow
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Originally Posted by Shannow
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
I believe you are communicating the same point. It is not lack of oil flow or presence of oil between parts, but the fact of the oil and parts being cold, and relying on hydrodynamic form of lubrication. When things warm the wear goes down.
Originally Posted by Shannow
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
I believe you are communicating the same point. It is not lack of oil flow or presence of oil between parts, but the fact of the oil and parts being cold, and relying on hydrodynamic form of lubrication. When things warm the wear goes down.
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Originally Posted by Shannow
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
I believe you are communicating the same point. It is not lack of oil flow or presence of oil between parts, but the fact of the oil and parts being cold, and relying on hydrodynamic form of lubrication. When things warm the wear goes down.
ok
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Originally Posted by Shannow
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
I believe you are communicating the same point. It is not lack of oil flow or presence of oil between parts, but the fact of the oil and parts being cold, and relying on hydrodynamic form of lubrication. When things warm the wear goes down.
ok
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Originally Posted by Shannow
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
I believe you are communicating the same point. It is not lack of oil flow or presence of oil between parts, but the fact of the oil and parts being cold, and relying on hydrodynamic form of lubrication. When things warm the wear goes down.
ok
And why then need i explain my self when there is many that know the answers? Hydrodynamic form of the oil will fail if you have too much or too low oil pressure.
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
Originally Posted by Bjornviken
Originally Posted by Shannow
What do temperature and pressure mean in a lubrication system ?
As to cold starts...the wear is during warmup, while the oil is all there at all places and flowing...not the "cold start" per se.
Cold starts where the oil pressure i high and the oil is cold. But i think you know this.
I believe you are communicating the same point. It is not lack of oil flow or presence of oil between parts, but the fact of the oil and parts being cold, and relying on hydrodynamic form of lubrication. When things warm the wear goes down.
ok
And why then need i explain my self when there is many that know the answers? Hydrodynamic form of the oil will fail if you have too much or too low oil pressure.
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