Here's my fram filter at least 18 thousand miles

[Ablebody]

All I had to cut this open was a pair of tin snips and a screwdriver

http://tinypic.com?ref=2euoi90" target="_blank">

Things I like about this filter:
Filter element itself seems strong like it would never really collapse or tear.
metal in caps.
Soft flexible anti drain back valve

Things I don't like about this filter:
Very small element
Thin metal case
The pressure relief valve is a separate piece that fits into the center tube that could leak by where it fits in. On some other filters the bypass valve is built in so that the spring is on top and the oil would have to apply enough pressure to force the valve open before anything could leak by.
The relief valve is on the dome end where when it does open or leak by it would introduced contaminants back into the engine.
The car had a rattling noise and shook after startup and at idle. I did several things to the car trying to fix the problem throughout the use of this filter. I change spark plugs and coils clean the throttle body and mass air flow sensor and change the air filter put seafoam through the vacuum lines. Reset the computer to retrain itself. None of that changed anything. Soon as I change the filter those symptoms are gone so then I realized that the problem was the oil filter which I never thought about until then.

 

[old1]

I know strange things happen that have no explanation, but I have a hard time thinking that an oil filter, any oil filter, could cause the symptoms you describe.

 

[andyd]

Well, you learned something. It looks like you were changing every other OCI. The usual scenario is the filter is changed and now the engine is noisy upon start up. Compared to all the other more difficult and expensive things it may be. A filter is easy-peasey. When confronted with multiple things that could cause a symptom, start with the cheap /easy stuff first.

 

[diyjake]

18k miles on that filter sure didn't help things.

 

[csandste]

"The car had a rattling noise and shook after startup and at idle. "

That's the problem that HyunKia cited in denying warranty claims if you didn't use their filter. I've used lots of after market filters in Kias and never heard that noise but if I had I would have switched to the OEM immediately.

 

[JMJNet]

That filter is the small version of xg3600 at 2" more height which means more filtering materials.

If I were you, and there is a vertical space, I will put XG3600.
Then you will have a better chance of running it to 18K miles, although that is not a guarantee that it will last that long.
Personally, I will run it up to 10K.

 

[Zee09]

Originally Posted by csandste
"The car had a rattling noise and shook after startup and at idle. "

That's the problem that HyunKia cited in denying warranty claims if you didn't use their filter. I've used lots of after market filters in Kias and never heard that noise but if I had I would have switched to the OEM immediately.


Looks like a car issue.
I use these in a diesel MF tractor and it gets worked hard-same model- never had any issues
Ran one out to 300 hours.

 

[SirTanon]

Originally Posted by Ablebody

Things I don't like about this filter:
Very small element

Small is subjective. Considering the proven capability of Fram Ultra filters, and the fact that they are "depth filtering" with multiple layers of high-quality synthetic media, it was certainly enough.

Originally Posted by Ablebody
Thin metal case

Again, subjective. Also, it didn't burst, right? Over 18k miles? Seems like it was thick enough.

Originally Posted by Ablebody
The pressure relief valve is a separate piece that fits into the center tube that could leak by where it fits in. On some other filters the bypass valve is built in so that the spring is on top and the oil would have to apply enough pressure to force the valve open before anything could leak by.

This has been shown previously to be a perfectly serviceable and durable design. Just because, to you, it "looks like" it could leak, it's highly unlikely it did. There's a pressure rating on it for a reason.

Originally Posted by Ablebody
The relief valve is on the dome end where when it does open or leak by it would introduced contaminants back into the engine.

With the filtering capability of that media, and the type of media in place, as well as the kind of flow that this type of media has been proven to have, this will pretty much never happen, unless the filter is completely overloaded, and if that's the case, the engine has bigger problems. As you can see, even at 18k miles, the filter media still looks almost new.

Originally Posted by diyjake
18k miles on that filter sure didn't help things.


At 18k miles, that filter was just getting warmed up. Not an issue.

 

[Ablebody]

Originally Posted by andyd
Well, you learned something. It looks like you were changing every other OCI. The usual scenario is the filter is changed and now the engine is noisy upon start up. Compared to all the other more difficult and expensive things it may be. A filter is easy-peasey. When confronted with multiple things that could cause a symptom, start with the cheap /easy stuff first.

It was 3 oil changes actually lol.

 

[MParr]

That's the same filter I have on my Toro ZTR. The Ultra is the only FRAM oil filter I will use. I'm not saying the filter didn't cause the problem you cited. I will say 18,000 miles is too long on any filter, I don't care what the xxxxxx packaging says. If you think the filter caused the problem, try a NAPA Gold 1394 and change the oil and filter at 5,000 miles.

 

[Ablebody]

Originally Posted by old1
I know strange things happen that have no explanation, but I have a hard time thinking that an oil filter, any oil filter, could cause the symptoms you describe.

That's what most of the people I know say but I've talked to a number of people on forums and a few suggest the filter was restricted. Not allowing oil to flow well enough. Never had a detectable issue with a filter before and never even knew how one functions before this as I believe is the case with most people that say it couldn't possibly be the filter.
Anyway the filter has been off for a couple k miles sitting on top of my fridge until I got around to cutting it open. Since the the issue is gone.

 

[bullwinkle]

I missed something somewhere-what kind of car was this again? I didn't see where Hyundai or Kia was mentioned, they are known for being picky about filters. At how many miles did the problem start? What oil was used? There's a lot of variables here, and since I've personally ran an Ultra for longer, I'm wondering what exactly would cause "shaking"-was there any knocking or valve train rattling? Not saying I don't believe you...

 

[bullwinkle]

Also, I would ask you to try to get the media off & extended to see what is in it-but. It's almost impossible to do that on an Ultra, the wire backing is hard to deal with without cutting yourself.

 

[Ablebody]

Originally Posted by bullwinkle
I missed something somewhere-what kind of car was this again? I didn't see where Hyundai or Kia was mentioned, they are known for being picky about filters. At how many miles did the problem start? What oil was used? There's a lot of variables here, and since I've personally ran an Ultra for longer, I'm wondering what exactly would cause "shaking"-was there any knocking or valve train rattling? Not saying I don't believe you...

Mazda 1.5. 3 oil changes. Pennzoil hm, I think supertech syn and quaker state conventional. I think those were all 5w30. Hard to remember really.
The rattling noise and shaking was for pretty much the whole time.

 

[Ablebody]

Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Also, I would ask you to try to get the media off & extended to see what is in it-but. It's almost impossible to do that on an Ultra, the wire backing is hard to deal with without cutting yourself.

I'll give it a try

 

[SnowDrifter]

Sounds like your ADBV wasn't functioning properly

 

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted by JMJNet
That filter is the small version of xg3600 at 2" more height which means more filtering materials.

If I were you, and there is a vertical space, I will put XG3600.
Then you will have a better chance of running it to 18K miles, although that is not a guarantee that it will last that long.
Personally, I will run it up to 10K.


I'm probably wrong but the 4967 is smaller version of 4386 filter. The 3614 is small version of the 3600 btw

 

[ZeeOSix]

The Ultra has a felt seal on the end cap around where the bypass valve assy fits, so doubt it leaks. Seems you're obsessed with the bypass valve sealing on oil filters. And besides, if it did leak there's no way it could achieve the 99% at 20 micron efficiency rating during ISO testing.

And it's not too flow restrictive, as shown by info from Motorking. Besides, a positive displacement oil pump can only cut oil flow to the engine when it's in pressure relief. Now if the filter was ran 18K miles on a pretty dirty engine then it could become flow restrictive from debris loading.

Did all these bad running engine symptoms show up the day the Ultra was installed? Or was it after many thousands of miles?

 

[SirTanon]

Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by JMJNet
That filter is the small version of xg3600 at 2" more height which means more filtering materials.

If I were you, and there is a vertical space, I will put XG3600.
Then you will have a better chance of running it to 18K miles, although that is not a guarantee that it will last that long.
Personally, I will run it up to 10K.


I'm probably wrong but the 4967 is smaller version of 4386 filter. The 3614 is small version of the 3600 btw

You're correct. I was just about to say this. AFAIK, the 4967 and the 3600 have different threading too.

 

[53' Stude]

SirTanon: i am not so sure about threads as they both thread onto my 2.4 2AZ-FE engine fine.

After looking on fram site; both 4967 and 3600 are 3/4 16 thread