I see you rollerized the Output.....Good for you!!
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Can I run dex6 in my th400.
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Originally Posted By: clinebarger
I see you rollerized the Output.....Good for you!!
yep. Measured the old thrust washer and bearing and set up the new Torrington bearing to the proper height looks you said then I put the bushing.010" to .020" below the surface of the new bearing.
I see you rollerized the Output.....Good for you!!
yep. Measured the old thrust washer and bearing and set up the new Torrington bearing to the proper height looks you said then I put the bushing.010" to .020" below the surface of the new bearing.
so i have been making sure all of the end plays and clearances are in spec. My rear end play is .005" to .007". Clinebarger you said that .005" to .010" was a good spec for rear end play with the torrington bearing instead of thrust washer. For the rest of the specs i am following an article on sonnax. I am up to the part where i am checking the forward clutch hub to direct drum play. Sonnax says the spec is .008" to .015". I have no play at all. sonnax says id you have no play to use a thinner thrust washer. I cannot find any thinner thrust washers. So my question is is should i sand the thrust washer down that i have or should i leave it with no play. Here is a link to the article. https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/23...r-train-failure
I know you bought some "late" 4L80E items.....You CANNOT run the .041" shim uder the Sun Gear Bearing in a TH400 as it will close up the direct drum to forward hub end-play.
Are you 100% sure the Sun Gear Shaft is fully seated into the Sun Gear?
Another area of concern is the Cast Iron TH400 Forward Hub, The Cast Iron will wear against the Steel Main Shaft. It would have to be some major wear to cause this.
.041" shim....
TH400 Forward Hub Wear
4L80E Steel Hub/No Wear
Are you 100% sure the Sun Gear Shaft is fully seated into the Sun Gear?
Another area of concern is the Cast Iron TH400 Forward Hub, The Cast Iron will wear against the Steel Main Shaft. It would have to be some major wear to cause this.
.041" shim....
TH400 Forward Hub Wear
4L80E Steel Hub/No Wear
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Originally Posted By: joegreen
Also could you tell me if this is where the fretting snap ring goes and where i should have the gap in the snap ring oriented?
It sits on the bottom "Ledge" (The Center Support sits right on top of it), Orient it at the 9:00 position, About 180 degrees from where you have it.
Also could you tell me if this is where the fretting snap ring goes and where i should have the gap in the snap ring oriented?
It sits on the bottom "Ledge" (The Center Support sits right on top of it), Orient it at the 9:00 position, About 180 degrees from where you have it.
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Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: joegreen
Also could you tell me if this is where the fretting snap ring goes and where i should have the gap in the snap ring oriented?
It sits on the bottom "Ledge" (The Center Support sits right on top of it), Orient it at the 9:00 position, About 180 degrees from where you have it.
Ok, so the gap in the ring should be in the same area where there are no case lugs?
Originally Posted By: joegreen
Also could you tell me if this is where the fretting snap ring goes and where i should have the gap in the snap ring oriented?
It sits on the bottom "Ledge" (The Center Support sits right on top of it), Orient it at the 9:00 position, About 180 degrees from where you have it.
Ok, so the gap in the ring should be in the same area where there are no case lugs?
I am not using that .041" shim. Anyway I must not have had things seated properly because i took the everything apart from the output shaft to the center support and now i have the slightest amount of play between the forward clutch hub and the direct drum which there is supposed to be. Im going to go back through and check my rear end play again to verify.
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Originally Posted By: joegreen
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: joegreen
Also could you tell me if this is where the fretting snap ring goes and where i should have the gap in the snap ring oriented?
It sits on the bottom "Ledge" (The Center Support sits right on top of it), Orient it at the 9:00 position, About 180 degrees from where you have it.
Ok, so the gap in the ring should be in the same area where there are no case lugs?
Yes, All 3 Case snap rings get installed at 9:00. (Fretting, Center Support, Intermediate Clutch
(Early units (pre-1970) didn't use a Fretting Ring)
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: joegreen
Also could you tell me if this is where the fretting snap ring goes and where i should have the gap in the snap ring oriented?
It sits on the bottom "Ledge" (The Center Support sits right on top of it), Orient it at the 9:00 position, About 180 degrees from where you have it.
Ok, so the gap in the ring should be in the same area where there are no case lugs?
Yes, All 3 Case snap rings get installed at 9:00. (Fretting, Center Support, Intermediate Clutch
(Early units (pre-1970) didn't use a Fretting Ring)
What about the center support snap ring thickness? I bought a hd snap ring and a spiroloc snap ring both from ckperformance. I called and asked which one was better and he said he uses them both interchangeably. I measured the spiroloc snap ring and it's .087" and the hd snap ring is .092". That is a .005" difference. Does that .005" matter? I have been checking rear end play with the spiroloc snap ring because it's much easier for me to put in and take out of the case. I have not been able to get the Hd snap ring in the case because it's so stiff. I tried to see if I could fit a .005" feeler gauge between the spiroloc snap ring and the case lugs when everything was installed up to the center support. I was able to fit the .005" feeler gauge which tells me that the HD snap ring should also fit. I was not able to move the center support up and down by hand with the spiroloc snap ring in place. I am just concerned if a .005" feeler gauge fits I don't want the center support moving back and forth destroying the case lugs.
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After some further research I made a mistake. No wonder I couldn't get the Hd snap ring all the way down into the case to hold the center support I was using the wrong snap ring. I now see that the tapered snap ring holds in the center support and the HD snap ring or spiroloc snap ring is for the intermediate clutch backing plate.
New question. I'm checking rear end play again with the beveled snap ring holding in the center support. I'm my sonnax article on checking rear end play it says
"with the shaft pushed again the washers, zero the dial indicator and move the assembly in the opposite direction to get your measurement."
With the case upside down I push down really hard on the output shaft until it stops moving the dial indicator then I zero the indicator and lift up on the output shaft until the indicator stops moving again. Is that the proper way to check rear endplay?
When I check it that way I can't hear any audible click of the output shaft moving up and down but I can see the indicator get a reading.
"with the shaft pushed again the washers, zero the dial indicator and move the assembly in the opposite direction to get your measurement."
With the case upside down I push down really hard on the output shaft until it stops moving the dial indicator then I zero the indicator and lift up on the output shaft until the indicator stops moving again. Is that the proper way to check rear endplay?
When I check it that way I can't hear any audible click of the output shaft moving up and down but I can see the indicator get a reading.
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Originally Posted By: joegreen
With the case upside down I push down really hard on the output shaft until it stops moving the dial indicator then I zero the indicator and lift up on the output shaft until the indicator stops moving again. Is that the proper way to check rear endplay?
When I check it that way I can't hear any audible click of the output shaft moving up and down but I can see the indicator get a reading.
That's how I do it, You just have to lift the output straight up as rocking it side to side will give false readings. Sometimes it's easiest to clamp something to the output for use as a handle. It's tough to hear .005" to .007" of movement.....My hearing isn't that great from all the years working in a shop.
With the case upside down I push down really hard on the output shaft until it stops moving the dial indicator then I zero the indicator and lift up on the output shaft until the indicator stops moving again. Is that the proper way to check rear endplay?
When I check it that way I can't hear any audible click of the output shaft moving up and down but I can see the indicator get a reading.
That's how I do it, You just have to lift the output straight up as rocking it side to side will give false readings. Sometimes it's easiest to clamp something to the output for use as a handle. It's tough to hear .005" to .007" of movement.....My hearing isn't that great from all the years working in a shop.
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Originally Posted By: joegreen
With the case upside down I push down really hard on the output shaft until it stops moving the dial indicator then I zero the indicator and lift up on the output shaft until the indicator stops moving again. Is that the proper way to check rear endplay?
When I check it that way I can't hear any audible click of the output shaft moving up and down but I can see the indicator get a reading.
That's how I do it, You just have to lift the output straight up as rocking it side to side will give false readings. Sometimes it's easiest to clamp something to the output for use as a handle. It's tough to hear .005" to .007" of movement.....My hearing isn't that great from all the years working in a shop.
ok sweet. What about front end play. I'm working on that right now and the sonnax article says to set front end play .002" to .005" more than rear end play. So does that still apply even though I converted to a rear roller setup. Rear end play is .005" to .007" should I set front end play between .002" to .005" more than the rear end play?
Originally Posted By: joegreen
With the case upside down I push down really hard on the output shaft until it stops moving the dial indicator then I zero the indicator and lift up on the output shaft until the indicator stops moving again. Is that the proper way to check rear endplay?
When I check it that way I can't hear any audible click of the output shaft moving up and down but I can see the indicator get a reading.
That's how I do it, You just have to lift the output straight up as rocking it side to side will give false readings. Sometimes it's easiest to clamp something to the output for use as a handle. It's tough to hear .005" to .007" of movement.....My hearing isn't that great from all the years working in a shop.
ok sweet. What about front end play. I'm working on that right now and the sonnax article says to set front end play .002" to .005" more than rear end play. So does that still apply even though I converted to a rear roller setup. Rear end play is .005" to .007" should I set front end play between .002" to .005" more than the rear end play?
I would like to see .010" at the least for Front/Input end-play. You never want the Rear too Thrust Load the front! That is a golden rule on TH400's as the front section is all Thrust Washer! The Drums need to float & the washers need oiling.
.003"-.008" greater than Output end-play. That's why I recommend at least .010", .003" greater than .007".
Using this method...You don't have to load the output.
Using this method...You don't have to load the output.
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Im still confused about front end play. I have been finding conflicting reports about loading the output shaft towards the front of the case before checking front end play. When i dont have any forward load on the output shaft my front end play is .020". when i do have the weight of the transmission on the output shaft pushing the output shaft towards the front of the trans my front end play is .013". So which is the proper way to check front end play? With the output shaft loaded forward or unloaded?
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