Dielectric grease or something else?

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JHZR2

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I have a bunch of DC sae connectors for quick connection of my battery chargers to my less often used vehicles. Some are made of bright stainless, others are some metal with a corrosion resistant coating. The former look great, the later are showing some discoloration. I'd like to put something on them to keep the elements a bit further out and prevent corrosion.

My first thought was dielectric grease, but not sure if its the right thing. These connectors are just peeking out from underhood, but if the product separated and ran, it would be on my paint... Don't want that.

The product would need to prevent corrosion and preferably moisture from accessing the connections, not create a high resistance connection, and not run or bleed out.

Recommendations?
 
I thought that was exactly what di-grease was for. Just use a thin film and there should be no dripping. Just my .02
 
Spray them with Fluid Film which I think you've stated in the past that you have on hand. Not as messy as smearing grease everywhere.
 
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I use dielectric grease when ever I remove a connector.


Same here!
ATMOF, my BIL uses Dielectric Grease on so many things that, he claims that he is finding more & more uses for it including brakes & brake hardware(never failed yet!). And he works in the heavy duty truck field.
 
I've always used dielectric grease on my plow motor and solenoid connections with great results. Like everyone else has said, that's what its designed for...any outside electrical connection to prevent corrosion.
 
Sorry to hijack, JHZR@ but there is so much confusion concerning dielectric grease; I'm confused myself. So how about a game? List all the applications you use dielectric grease on.

I have only used the tube stuff by placing a small amount on the end of a spark plug and a little on the inside of the boot. I also put a little on every electrical connector I have apart. How many uses am I missing?
 
I use it on all electronic connections in my vehicles. Thing is, open and exposed 12v battery charger connections aren't permanently connected, is a bit different, at least at my first glance.
 
Originally Posted By: George7941
Dielectric grease will work just as well as anything else.

The absolute authority on electrical contact greases is Nye Lubricants
http://www.nyelubricants.com/products/nyogel.shtml

Nyogel is recommended by GM and Ford to prevent fretting corrosion on electrical contacts.

Motorcraft XG12 dielectric grease for electrical contacts is manufactured by Nye Lubricants
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.c...ategory=Greases


Any idea what the difference bewteen the MC XG12 and XG-3 dielectric grease is?
 
This application (temporary el connections) is a great use for dilectric grease.

I use it for this very same purpose (for my Battery Tender connectors) as well as plugs such as the various trailers I use (RV, boat, utility).

It would have to be HOT (well above ambient temps) to make it run. And it wipes off clean with no residue typically.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Sorry to hijack, JHZR@ but there is so much confusion concerning dielectric grease; I'm confused myself. So how about a game? List all the applications you use dielectric grease on.


Here is one. I replaced a motherboard in a laptop and the connection with monitor was very poor no matter how many times I reattached the tiny plug. Remembering that DG fixed intermittent harness connection problem in my Subaru many years ago, I tried DG on the motherboard socket and it worked on the first try and works like a charm a yer later.

Could someone please tell me how exactly it works. If not, I will have to believe in miracles.
 
Well, it simply excludes oxygen from the connection slowing down microscopic electrolytic corrosion. For people with VW TDIs it was a good fix for driveability issues when used on the MAF connector, which had different metals each side.

I also use a tiny amount on every electrical connector, the only time it's given me grief is when I used it on an HDMI connector.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
I understand that, but how does it explain instant results?


Hmm, overnight I realized that you may not know that almost all electrical connectors are design to wipe the contacts clean on insertion. Any slight resistance that develops can causes galvanic corrosion at a microscopic level and small currents from certain types of sensors will not break through that.
In addition all underhood connectors should ideally be watertight, although you will find that those under covers carrying higher currents (fuses, relays, lighting) are not.

IMHO, connector design is one of the main drivers determining historic reliability of vehicle brands and is one reason why Japanese cars got better first. The legendary Mercedes W123 of the '70s-'80s used silver plated connectors with a heavy, sticky grease to seal them (throughout the vehicle,) while BMW only took care on critical components (ECU, TCM and ABS) and used relatively low-quality connectors on non-critical systems such as AC, window and power seat controls. Saab, Alfa and other Euro brands were similar.

I have a saying that "every electrical problem is a mechanical problem," and that is because the root cause of many failures in electrical systems is poor mechanical design, a result of the failure of the EEs to always select components appropriate to the environmental conditions, or appreciate the benefit of passing that responsibility off to the MEs.
 
Originally Posted By: Kiwi_ME
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
I understand that, but how does it explain instant results?


Hmm, overnight I realized that you may not know that almost all electrical connectors are design to wipe the contacts clean on insertion.


OK, are you saying DG helps to wipe the corroded surface on the metallic pins/contacts?
 
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