what about motor honey??

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I went to buy oil today and my buddy that works at the part store said Lucas is great . I've heard a lot of people love this stuff but I'm not paying 12 bucks a quart . I ended up getting some motor honey . It's pretty darn thick. My thoughts were since saturns use oil and shear oil real bad that them thickener would help. Any thoughts or any one who was used it. Wondering what yall think of it.
 
Better off going thicker on oil weight, Lucas and others are not very good. There is an articleon this site that explains why on the main page
 
An old product much in the same family as STP,and store brand oil "treatments".Basically thickens the oil temporarily.STP used to have some added ingredients that supposibly caused internal engine corrosion (?).
The first thing I think of when I hear Motor Honey,is the Casite "Tough Guy"...the same cartoon character that pushed Hastings filters.
 
I owned a 83 Ford Escort. used honey and that worked somewhat, not what'd you expect though reading the package label. So I went with 10w40 which seemed to be better than honey. Really didn't need to change the filter because it'd get a fresh quart every 500 miles.. can't remember when I did lol..
Those scorts were bullet proof!
Anyhoo I finally fixed the leaky valve cover gasket and that saved alot of oil, thinking I replace pcv too which was stuck open. So it gets to the point sometimes that no matter what oil, you must fix the mechanical failure first, valve guide seals, gaskets or perhaps piston rings in which you'll be looking for a new car in the future. There really isn't a magic bullet for a worn out engine.
 
Well my car has perfect compression I'm just using to see if it slows the oil usage I dont expect it to fix anything since its just a Saturn and there isn't really anything wrong
 
I would be concerned about how your oil pump is going to move the gelatin that is your oil + motor honey when it is cold out.
 
So far I see folks doping their motor oil from using stoddard solvent to motor hunny...begs the question as to what he/she is trying to achieve in this case?

Yeah, I understand the urge for quick satisfaction (that's why I call most of the useless OTC additives "satisfaction-in-a-can").

If the root of the problem is mechanical (e.g. typical Saturn engine oil burning issues due to stuck oil control rings), the only way to resolve this is to take it apart and deal with it (scrape the carbon off of the ring lands, re-ring, etc.)

My 2c's worth.

Q.
 
Well so far in 20 degrees it starts fine . No noise when it had 10w40 in it it made noise. Now its got 5w30 with a half quart of motor honey. So far I haven't noticed a problem. I have said it before ill say it again I'm not looking to it to fix anything. All I want is a little less oil usage. And if I get no ill effects and less usage its worth it. It only has about 12% motor honey and 88% motor oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
So far I see folks doping their motor oil from using stoddard solvent to motor hunny...begs the question as to what he/she is trying to achieve in this case?

Yeah, I understand the urge for quick satisfaction (that's why I call most of the useless OTC additives "satisfaction-in-a-can").

If the root of the problem is mechanical (e.g. typical Saturn engine oil burning issues due to stuck oil control rings), the only way to resolve this is to take it apart and deal with it (scrape the carbon off of the ring lands, re-ring, etc.)

My 2c's worth.

Q.


I agree. BUT! If you have one car, it's your daily driver and it's Dollar value is low. You may not be able to have the car out of service or be able to afford, or be able to justify, the expense of a rebuild.
Many years ago I was in such a situation. In my case a can or two of STP reduced oil consumption to a manageable level, so I was able to get to and from work, pay the mortgage and eat.

In an ideal world we would all have new cars, perform regular OCI's with quality oil, and our car would not have inherent defects.
In a less than perfect world, oil Thickeners and engine cleaners can (IMHO) play an important role.
 
if adding 1 bottle of motor honey is good for an engine, think of how great it would be if you ran straight motor honey! who wants to be the tester?
 
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A solution to this would be to run rotella 5w-40 or M1 0w-40 if your trying to slow consumption but want easy flow for colder weather. I dont understand why you wanted to use the cheapest oil around because of cost and then go and buy some $10 additive to throw in the engine..... Thats a extra 1-2 quarts of good oil for make up, that money honey isn't going to help the cold starts any, kinda defeated the purpose of a lighter weight oil for colder weather....
 
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In the past I have priced a quart of an additive/thickener compared to a quart of a heavier oil. A quart of Oil is hard to beat.

I still have some Shaeffers #132, and some Liqui Moly Engine Oil Saver in my stock. I used the Engine Oil Saver last summer, when it was 107 outside, and it did the trick of slowing down the leak I have.

However, during the colder months I just stick with a mix of 10w30 and 10w40, and top off with a 40 weight.

If it is a price thing I would stick with just the oil.

I worry about damage done on start up when using an oil thickener in winter, if it does drop out of suspension due to cold weather it is effectively jelly that your pump will choke on. A 10w40 I'd think would be a better choice.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456


I worry about damage done on start up when using an oil thickener in winter, if it does drop out of suspension due to cold weather it is effectively jelly that your pump will choke on. A 10w40 I'd think would be a better choice.


If that was true my cars back in the 50's, 60,s and on that I've used STP in for years now would have all choked the oil pumps in the below "0" weather here in No. Indiana.

I have a car now that does not use any oil between 5,000 mile OCI's but started making a noise I believe to be piston slap, added a bottle of STP and noise stopped, not a bad fix for $3.00. Motor has 150,000 plus miles and I purchased the car for $800. 3 years ago, not going to dump a bunch into it. Its our winter car here in the rust zone.

STP or similar turning to jelley? Really???????????????????
 
I used bardol no-smoke for 4-5 years in my old e28 bmw because of bad valve seals. It and 20w50 oil "reduced" the oil burning a bit. Just add a quart of 20w50 and no-smoke when low
smile.gif
and Never had any problems. sold the car with 185,000 and still drove nice.
 
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Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Well so far in 20 degrees it starts fine . No noise when it had 10w40 in it it made noise. Now its got 5w30 with a half quart of motor honey. So far I haven't noticed a problem. I have said it before ill say it again I'm not looking to it to fix anything. All I want is a little less oil usage. And if I get no ill effects and less usage its worth it. It only has about 12% motor honey and 88% motor oil.


I think these no-smoke additives generally do more good than harm for oil burners where the engine no longer runs near spec / close to new condition. However, make sure you get the simple-to-fix mechanical things in order 1st. Clean or replace the pvc valve and possibly the hose.

Somewhat thickened up 5w30 seems like a good winter mix IMO. For something as thick as motor honey though I personally would've added a bit less than you did, maybe just half to a third bottle, ~7 oz to your 5w30. If it gets much colder (20f is pretty darned cold already!) and you think you've gone too thick you can always top up with some Marvel MMO to thin it back down.

Report back!! and let us know how it's doing with the consumption and smoke.
 
Thickeners like STP and Motor Honey have use - esp in the past with V8s that were worn..
Mostly for oil burners, but will attenuate leakage as well.
There are downsides, however. Cold weather start up flow is lousy, and gas mileage and power will be down a bit.
 
I'm with some of the others on this issue. Rather than adding some snake oil with unknown properties, move up a grade. If you are burning oil with xW-30, move up to 0W-40 or 0W-40 with a touch of 20W-50.
 
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