Amsoil 10w-40, 4.7L Dakota

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Here is the results of an oil analysis done at 12,000 miles in a 4.7 Dodge Dakota.

iron 21 sodium 25
chromium 2 mag 30
lead 0 calcium 3303
copper 7 barium 0
tin 0 phosp 1085
alum 5 zinc 1264
nickel 0 moly 7
silver 0 tit 0
silicon 8 van 0
boron 3 pot 0

I see that the silicon is very low . I assume that is were you would see a problem with dirt coming past the filter.

Does anyone have an analysis of fresh oil so that we have a benchmark to compare it to?

Could someone let me know what you read in my results?

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Your wear numbers are excellent! Seeing a lead number of zero is something I've been striving for but I doubt I'll ever see with my leadfoot!
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Your silicon level definitely shows that your air filter is doing an amazing job.

I wouldn't change a thing here, this oil is working very well for you!
 
This is the oil I'm running in the 1996 Volvo 855 right now (first time). The car seems to "like" this oil.

Numbers look ok. Fe might be a tad high, but it is a pushrod V8. (right? not a 6?)

What lab? What about the TBN, viscosity, etc?

How many miles total on the engine?

[ October 07, 2003, 07:16 AM: Message edited by: Pablo ]
 
Awesome numbers! This is a nice 40wt oil. I like the fact it's a 10w and not 0w. I now have another option to consider when I get my Jeep. Any TBN, Viscosity? Pablo, Fe is fine. This oil has 12k miles on it.
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[ October 07, 2003, 07:20 AM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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The truck uses the Amsoil air filter as well as their oil filter.

Test kit was supplied by Amsoil.
36,300 miles on the truck at the moment.
The oil was put in at 22,000 miles.
Changed filter and did a oil analysis at 34,000 miles.
The oil will be left in untill 46,000 miles when oil and filter will be changed.
Will do another oil analysis.

Thanks!!!
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Okay ... here is everything ...

(Sorry for the layout)

iron 21 sodium 25
chromium 2 mag 30
lead 0 calcium 3303
copper 7 barium 0
tin 0 phosp 1085
alum 5 zinc 1264
nickel 0 moly 7
silver 0 tit 0
silicon 8 van 0
boron 3 pot 0
TBN 2.60 OXID 7.0
NITR 1.0 Fuel VIS @ 100 C 14.91 Water 0
Glycol NEG

Any other comments?

Thanks! Should i still be ...
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The 15w-40 AME? diesel/oil looks like a first class oil. I bet that would hold up very well in extended drains and wouldn't shear or leave any deposits behind. It specifically states it has rust/corrosion inhibitors.
 
No pushrods in this engine. The pistons are short skirt high ring design with anadized lands like alot of engines. It has SOHC with hydralic adjustors. It is chain driven with an idler were a cam would go on an OHV design. The bottom end is fitted with a girdle instead of individual main caps. The girdle is made of compacted high graphite steel. The HO versions have forged crank, floting bushed wrist pins etc... The level of contricity for this is engine is excellent. The tolerance and concentricity "not clearances" are almost race car like! The valve cover is extruded mag. The oil pump has been specialy clearance so it can esily pump the recommended 5W30. The pump is a G-Rotor design. The oil system is a high pressure type. The head is almopst a true hemi design with coil on ignition.

The only real weakness is the piston design. If this engine were any better it would have to be a Toyota!

I used to own a Dak QC 4.7 and loved tweaking it for MO-POWER!!!

P.S. I have observed that all Daimler Chrysler engines tend to trend iron high. I am begining to think they are useing a really low grade iron ring by todays standard. If they would nitride these they could get buy with the cheaper alloy and not see the high iron numbers!

[ October 08, 2003, 10:37 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
 
R2R,

If the TBN was 2.6 prior to the filter change and topoff, it might be 4.0 at this time. I'd do a complete oil/filter change within 3000 miles. Under no conditions do you want to run this oil for another 12,000 miles.

Tooslick
 
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