109,000mi on 20 weight--valve gear pics

Status
Not open for further replies.
Even I often tell people not to bother with synthetic if they are not interested in synthetic or they do not plan on owning the car or truck for 10 or more years! I am the first to admit that if the person is only going to own a vechile for 2-5 years then trade in then synthetic oil makes no sense at all. Todays modern SM oils have the best base stock's of any API aproved dino oils in history because of the requirment for cleanliness and volitility. I would like to see these numbers geta bit tighter so that all group-I basestock was elimanated from the oils completly before I jump on the dino band wagon though. In fact when Chevron Supreme moved to all Goup-II and II+ I was useing it in some of my other vechiles and it was turningin great UOA. I just wish I knew what products had nothing lower then GII in them.

Their is one exception if someone was going to use bypass filtration and push the limits of the oils then synthetic makes sense as well from a cost stanpoint. I seem to remember some Chevy with 409,000 miles on it that had only had something like 4 oil changes with Amsoil and the engine was clean inside and running well with good compression etc....
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I have an open question for Jay and others. I was a little concerned when I changed my plugs for the first time at 90k and they looked similar to Jay's. I.E. some discoloration of electrodes,very light white coating,rust ring around topside of plug. Are the plugs in the photo considered to be in "normal" condition? Thanks.


I thought the plugs looked great. They had perfect color, they were all the same color and condition, and the condition was good for the miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: lazaro
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: lazaro
Originally Posted By: Jay
Originally Posted By: mgm13
Nice pics of really clean looking engine. What was the OCI and what oil filter pls.

Thanks
Big Mike
About 7500mi for the OCI and I use Nippon 15400-POH-305 filters. The manual recommends changing the oil filter every other oil change. I tried that once, but my silicon and wear numbers increased noticeably. Now I change the filter every oil change.

the cost of a clean engine like this takes 14 oil changes, plus oil samples? how much for the oil and filters? I feel bad I have 70,000 + miles and only 4 oil swaps and my first & current oil sample at 7000 was still good for more time.
do you have any sample sheets to share with the nice pics? what are the silicone numbers that you found alarming?
oh my engine is a 3.0 V-6 Yamaha SHO for a comparison


Selling something?
smirk2.gif


Show me the same engine with your 4 or whatever oil changes @ 109k and we can talk.

Since you can not, you can not compare what condition the valve train *MAY* be in.

Since we HAVE his photos and ACTUAL data we can SEE what FACTS are using Havoline.

Bill

BTW: thanks to the original poster for 7500 mile OCIs and then posting the photos.
cheers3.gif


I was looking for actual data like a sample sheet, no answer yet.
Im just smelling something Bill.
I have plenty of oil sample sheets to share, do you?


You're not serious are you?
crackmeup2.gif


Bill has probably posted more UOA results here than any other member. Have you posted 1? Lets see it... You say you've done 4 oil changes in 70,000 miles. Lets see one with 15,000 to 20,000 miles from your engine.
12.gif


Bill has also posted numerous pictures of those oh so bad cheap oil filters.

Bill is all about facts. Are you?

Drew thanks for the intrest but I asked simple questions with no reply other than "selling something?"
lets see the sheets and lets talk about it.
Im all ears.
you mention the oil filter FACTS?
it is great that Bill spends time to care
and open our eyes with his views.
Do I have to agree? NO I dont!
so far all his past post I have read I dont agree with most of his personal views on the subject.
Im sure he feels the same way with me.
Im not trying to discredit any individual here Im just asking questions.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Jay
Lazaro, I've posted many of my earlier oil analysis results on the board already. Here's one of them:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post247793

I haven't posted any of the later ones because they were so typical of the earlier ones (except for the slightly increased silicon and wear the time I left the oil filter in for two OCIs).

hey thanks!
the print is small on the sheet, please help me,
the Kvis@100 are those ranges in the 8 sec ranges?
and is the fuel range in the 2 range?
thanks!
 
What are you two arguing over?
21.gif


Synthetic oil just buys you time. I think all API SM conventional oils are every bit as good as a synthetic up to 7,500 miles or so. After that, I'd use a synthetic.

I would not run any oil past 15k miles. It's just not worth the risk IMO. Very few Amsoil reports come back looking decent past the 15k mile mark.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
What are you two arguing over?
21.gif




Here's my point: if you're going to argue over the results posted in the first post, you better have some factual ammo to refute them. Lazaro does not.

Again, I'll point out that there are about 3 posters with the exact same signature as Lazaros. Hmmmmmm.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: lazaro

hey thanks!
the print is small on the sheet, please help me,
the Kvis@100 are those ranges in the 8 sec ranges?
and is the fuel range in the 2 range?
thanks!


Lazaro, I don't know about the Kvis values. The lab is WearCheck in Cary, NC. Maybe someone more familiar with that lab's testing procedures can help.

The fuel value is a percentage. The lab doesn't report fuel %'s less than 2%.
 
very nice and clean the k20 engines are probably the best engines honda makes right now. only thing that bothers me are the loud stock injectors and having the stupid oil filter mounted next to the exhaust manifold
 
Quote:
Again, I'll point out that there are about 3 posters with the exact same signature as Lazaros. Hmmmmmm


At one point, anyone identified as an Amsoil dealer got that as a signature. When Tony was with us, and I was a mod, we would research the email address and sometimes you would find that the new user was an Amsoil (or other) rep. Tony would approve them but limit their "permissions" until he explained the limitations of what a lone wolf could do on BITOG.

The inverted view of the sig thing is that it (sorta) clearly identifies Amsoil dealers that aren't sponsors ..so it's a mixed bag
21.gif
55.gif
 
Looks very good! I had my old 2000 Accord (F23A4 with 102k mi) apart a few weeks ago (my brother owns it now) to check valves, timing belt, etc. and honestly the valve cover is no cleaner than yours and I've run Mobil 1 5-30 since maybe 15000 miles or so with ~7500mi OCIs. I did see what looks like less wear on the cam lobes but it would be hard to tell if it's really any different unless I used the same camera in similar conditions or had seen the engine myself. Hopefully I will get my UOA back any day now and see how things look.

Again, looks good to me!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top