Wow, blown away at Acura dealership service price

‘86 Chrysler T&C was a woody wagon w/a K-car drivetrain. The Chrysler 2.2 had a belt, the Mitsubishi 2.6 had 2 chains-which apparently required engine removal to replace, at least on a minivan (one of my best friends growing up’s parents had an ‘86 Caravan with the same engine). No belt(s) on a 2.6. I bet it was a 2.2, I had a Dodge Aries for a short while with a 2.6 & a bad carburetor. Carburetor was worth more than the car…

I went back and checked. It was a 2.5.
The 2.2 was the turbo motor.
The vans (of which we had several in the family) had the 2.6.
Some details blur over the years, however I still remember the botched TB job, which was just outside the time limit to file a dispute with my CC company.
 
Those who buy new or nearly new American made vehicles that are not from the junkyard or CoPart don't nearly have the number of issues that vehicles coming from the later sources do.
 
Those who buy new or nearly new American made vehicles that are not from the junkyard or CoPart don't nearly have the number of issues that vehicles coming from the later sources do.
I can't believe people even buy vehicles from Copart, some of their prices for "salvaged but repairable" vehicles (whatever that means) are almost the same price as the used market. No thanks.
 
I can't believe people even buy vehicles from Copart, some of their prices for "salvaged but repairable" vehicles (whatever that means) are almost the same price as the used market. No thanks.
Jeepman,

Please start a thread of your copart knowledge, I would love to know about your understanding and experiences with copart.i very much am looking forward to reading your thread on copart. Thanks in advance.
 
Jeepman,

Please start a thread of your copart knowledge, I would love to know about your understanding and experiences with copart.i very much am looking forward to reading your thread on copart. Thanks in advance.
I used to work in the automotive insurance industry. Most of the vehicles brought to copart are salvage, and copart is famous for their inaccurate listings (stating vehicles run/drive when they don't, etc). At their prices, buying a salvage vehicle and fixing it up can't possibly be a better option than buying a similar used clean title vehicle. I'm sure there are exceptions but that isn't the norm, unless your labor is free.
 
Dropped the wifes 2014 rdx at the fife WA Acura dealership this morning for the 100k timing belt service. $1890. Last time I had this done at an Acura it was 790. I also need a key for the acura. The key was in backorder at last dealer at 260. This dealer quoted 589. I am blown away at the prices.

I know Acura gets a little bit more, but this place seems crazy high.

Did you remember to yell at the dealer to get off your lawn while you threw your cane at them?
 
Dropped the wifes 2014 rdx at the fife WA Acura dealership this morning for the 100k timing belt service. $1890. Last time I had this done at an Acura it was 790. I also need a key for the acura. The key was in backorder at last dealer at 260. This dealer quoted 589. I am blown away at the prices.

I know Acura gets a little bit more, but this place seems crazy high.
Now I haven't read all the 9 pages of this thread so this may have already been answered, but for someone that rebuilds flooded Mercedes, why aren't you doing this yourself?
 
It's absolutely ridiculous that Honda is still using timing belts in their V6s. Even the new Honda Pilot, which is getting a new engine, is still going to use timing belts. What the **** Honda.
VW uses a belt in their current EA211 designs. Good for 150K with inspections every 20K thereafter. Plenty of owners with over 200K on the original belts / tensioners without issue.
 
VW uses a belt in their current EA211 designs. Good for 150K with inspections every 20K thereafter. Plenty of owners with over 200K on the original belts / tensioners without issue.
They apparently need to share their belt technology with Honda since Honda's R&D is severely lacking.
 
with inspections every 20K thereafter. Plenty of owners with over 200K on the original ... tensioners without issue.
How do you inspect (and evaluate) a tensioner ? If it ain't leaking, you can't tell anything, to my knowledge. As I understand it with Hondas, when things go bad with the timing belt system, it's more often the tensioner that fails. The belt could be 4 days old and the damage still gets done too.
 
They apparently need to share their belt technology with Honda since Honda's R&D is severely lacking.
Honda doesn't care (I don't mean that in a negative way either). Honda considers the timing belt a maintenance item, just like changing the oil. They don't keep this requirement a secret either. My '99 Accord owners manual specifically points out that the belt must be changed (it was around 60k miles back then). They have data indicating longer intervals are acceptable as 105k is the guideline nowadays. I will say, when I was looking for a car for our daughter, Accords with the V6 were not on my list because of the timing belt.

If it's any consolation, they only use a timing belt on the 3.5L V6 engines today and have moved away. All of their (new) 4-cylinders have moved away from belts and by "new", this started in the early 2000s.
 
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I used to work in the automotive insurance industry. Most of the vehicles brought to copart are salvage, and copart is famous for their inaccurate listings (stating vehicles run/drive when they don't, etc). At their prices, buying a salvage vehicle and fixing it up can't possibly be a better option than buying a similar used clean title vehicle. I'm sure there are exceptions but that isn't the norm, unless your labor is free.
This is KEY. Many of us here tend to be "older"-probably (optimistically) twenty years left for many of us. If you get satisfaction from crawling underneath a vehicle all weekend-so be it. I just got done playing a card game with my grandchild. That's what I rather be doing.
 
Why ? Is the job difficult on the labor side 'cause the starter is pretty cheap (given what's available).
Like @jeepman3071 said, it's in the "V" of the engine, under the intake. Buddy who was a Lexus tech for many years told me it gives it a more quiet starting sequence..adding to the luxury aspect.

Labor wise, I haven't done one..but it's involved.
 
No, but what will $10k let alone $12k get you today in today’s market?

That and really, these days a $1k repair isn’t that much money. It sure sounds like it, I think most of us remember when $100 for something was “expensive”. But inflation has crept in, and I think most of us like to remember something from 5-10 years ago as happening “just the other day”. I know I sure do! (but don’t ask me what I did yesterday)
My buddy is a really smart guy and makes A LOT of money. Those types tend to preserve wealth. So there are a couple of things that puzzle me with his thoughts. He has a family of 5, and gets the cheapest health care, a HSA. He said he has done the math and even with getting services, it's cheaper. Doesn't sound right but I believe him and suspect he doesn't need much for services. Then, my wife got insurance for our family and it blew his theory out of the water. School district had two choices only--HMO, PPO, $0 deductible (remember HSA, HRA, these were invented by insurance cos to defray costs to the employer, not to increase value to the employee--so when available, the HMO or PPO are jacked to a discouraging rate). I felt like it were the year 2000. Her cost is 33% of mine, $0 deductible, for the PPO, and mine has a $1,500 deducible. I can't wait for the first pay in 2023.

The other thing, he traded in a 2017 Odyssey, to avoid the timing belt job. And, said it makes financial sense. I teased him and said isn't it really that you want a 2022?

I bought a 2006 Lexus in 2016. In the 6.5 years that I've had it, I did do that timing belt job for $950 at an indie, but the car has been reliable (it's supposed to be bulletproof). As mentioned, I got a free multipoint in 2016 at the dealer, that said $6,700 needed. I've done none of it. My sneaking suspicion is that's what caused the car to be traded in, allowing me to pick it up. I paid $14k, which is not nothing, but it's not that much for a car that I've had 6.5 years and will have for years to come, imho....my .02
 
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The other thing, he traded in a 2017 Odyssey, to avoid the timing belt job. And, said it makes financial sense. I teased him and said isn't it really that you want a 2022?

He might be right. It seems on average a vehicle with 100k on it goes for about 50% of new. Assuming a life of 200k, it's worth trading for new and just using the first 50% of the vehicle's life which undoubtably is the better half.
 
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He might be right. It seems on average a vehicle with 100k on it goes for about 50% of new. Assuming a life of 200k, it's worth trading for new and just using the first 50% of the vehicle's life which undoubtably is the better half.
I'm positive there's a non-financial justification. Just this morning was trading emails with a buddy and I joked check this car out, $2,187/mo. lease. then, I realized I was on the finance tab and it was an 84 mo. loan. Someone out there thinks it's a good deal, if not, it wouldn't be on the web.
 
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I'm positive there's a non-financial justification. Just this morning was trading emails with a buddy and I joked check this car out, $2,187/mo. lease. then, I realized I was on the finance tab and it was an 84 mo. loan. Someone out there thinks it's a good deal, if not, it wouldn't be on the web.

Depends, if it was a 911 turbo that would be a good deal, but since we're talking about an Odyssey I would have to say no it is not a good deal.
 
Depends, if it was a 911 turbo that would be a good deal, but since we're talking about an Odyssey I would have to say no it is not a good deal.
It was actually a M4 CSL. That would likely be a very good price on a 911 Turbo. I remember being bummed around 2015, that the Turbo S could not be had with a stick (997). As my mom says, you have a lot of energy to worry about things that do not concern yourself :ROFLMAO:
 
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