Why so little respect for Brad Penn Penn Grade 1?
- Thread starter Chris71
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Agreed...especially for a 20W50 racing oil. Granted a solid base stock will take you a long way, but I was really surprised at the lack of a visibly robust add pack. I'll have to look at the spec again to see if there is something that I missed.
That's the regular Brad Penn, not The Penn Grade 1 green racing oil! The Penn Grade 1 has 1500 ppm of zinc and 1410 ppm of phosphorous!
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Brad Penn makes a normal 20w-50 for street use(which is what that UOA was probably from) and a 20w-50 Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 racing oil. It's called "The Green Oil" because it actually is green. The Penn Grade 1 works fantastic in high-performance or racing engines. I speak from experience.
We just started getting it in Australia. Its very cheap, mainly aimed for the racing scene here, the 20W50 range, i am hoping its the racing grade as i am looking to use it soon.
Originally Posted By: KA426
That's the regular Brad Penn, not The Penn Grade 1 green racing oil! The Penn Grade 1 has 1500 ppm of zinc and 1410 ppm of phosphorous!
It was a VOA like I typed wow
Are you always this clueless?
Here's the bottle from the case I tested and spoke of.
It's not worthy of my Garden Tractor
That's the regular Brad Penn, not The Penn Grade 1 green racing oil! The Penn Grade 1 has 1500 ppm of zinc and 1410 ppm of phosphorous!
It was a VOA like I typed wow
Are you always this clueless?
Here's the bottle from the case I tested and spoke of.
It's not worthy of my Garden Tractor
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You got a fluke batch then because it has 1500 ppm of zinc and 1410 ppm of phosphorous normally.It's run nation-wide in race engines.
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Funny,
I looked at the VOA and it stated API SJ. Penn Grade 1 doesn't meet any API specification so something is fishy.
I looked at the VOA and it stated API SJ. Penn Grade 1 doesn't meet any API specification so something is fishy.
Other side of bottle says API SJ/CF
Are you speaking from 1st hand experience??? Or just repeating what you read or hear??
If you have used it lets see a bottle pick with the seal and a VOA test with what you say.
Everything I showed here was based on facts from my 1st hand experience.
I'd be more interested to see if they still have the salt in it
Are you speaking from 1st hand experience??? Or just repeating what you read or hear??
If you have used it lets see a bottle pick with the seal and a VOA test with what you say.
Everything I showed here was based on facts from my 1st hand experience.
I'd be more interested to see if they still have the salt in it
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I stand corrected. The bottle states "suitable for SJ applications" The tech papers state one thing and your VOA states another. I just picked up a case of 40 wt. the other day. Maybe I'll do a VOA from Blackstone on it. Somethings weird because that VOA you showed the other day couldn't be the widely popular, fine performing race oil that it has come to be.
I'm going to do a VOA on the Penn Grade 1 40 wt. just to find out what the bleep is going on here!
Be honest. If you are a racer you know that very few test oil. What do you race?
Have you used the oil I'm talking about?
Have you read any other independent oil tests on BP like I shared with you?
Most use it because so and so said it was good. In this case the Green deal and link to obsolete GT-1 Green is what the magic pill was. I lived during that and hooked up with Terry Dyson and SPENT the coin to find out what was good and what was not. I have many other VOA's and UOA's on race oil.
You have to do your homework if you want the best
Your profile suggest you do not race. Why are you champing this?
Have you used the oil I'm talking about?
Have you read any other independent oil tests on BP like I shared with you?
Most use it because so and so said it was good. In this case the Green deal and link to obsolete GT-1 Green is what the magic pill was. I lived during that and hooked up with Terry Dyson and SPENT the coin to find out what was good and what was not. I have many other VOA's and UOA's on race oil.
You have to do your homework if you want the best
Your profile suggest you do not race. Why are you champing this?
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We do bracket race a 1968 Coronet 440. Believe me, I've read my butt off about this oil. It's worked flawlessly for us. We talked to other bracket guys, a lot of late model guys, engine builders,etc. All seem to praise the oil. I'm not doubting your input one bit. That's why I'm getting a VOA done on the 40 wt. that we run. If it turns out to be inferior, it will be drained and replaced by Shell Rotella T 15w-40.I thank you for your information on the subject.
OK Cool
Hey I'd like to see that VOA. Can you email it to me when it's done?
[email protected] cut and paste it the 4th character is a ZERO
BTW Last I looked (testing of course) for a shelf oil the VR-1 was the best bang for the BUCK. Kicking it up a notch, the Schaeffer's Micro Moly was better. Top shelf Red line or Royal Purple Race oil. Ohh and HD truck is just that.
PS Back in 2005 I had the moderator start tis area to discuss race oil. I do not look here often as it morphed into all kinds of race blabber.
Hey I'd like to see that VOA. Can you email it to me when it's done?
[email protected] cut and paste it the 4th character is a ZERO
BTW Last I looked (testing of course) for a shelf oil the VR-1 was the best bang for the BUCK. Kicking it up a notch, the Schaeffer's Micro Moly was better. Top shelf Red line or Royal Purple Race oil. Ohh and HD truck is just that.
PS Back in 2005 I had the moderator start tis area to discuss race oil. I do not look here often as it morphed into all kinds of race blabber.
Quick 16,
What oil would you recommend for another street/strip 440 with a big hydraulic cam? What part of Florida are you in? I used to vacation on Hutchison Island near Port St. Lucie. What size engine is in that rail? 454? 540?
What oil would you recommend for another street/strip 440 with a big hydraulic cam? What part of Florida are you in? I used to vacation on Hutchison Island near Port St. Lucie. What size engine is in that rail? 454? 540?
Got your PM
You need to tell me ore details
Is the cam broke in or is it all new?
Compression?
approx HP or a rear time slip?
Budget?
Does it have to pass State or Fed emissions?
I do not like HD oils in general for race applications
You need to tell me ore details
Is the cam broke in or is it all new?
Compression?
approx HP or a rear time slip?
Budget?
Does it have to pass State or Fed emissions?
I do not like HD oils in general for race applications
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Cam is broken in
10.5/1
450 hp approx.
No emissions since it is in an old car
10.5/1
450 hp approx.
No emissions since it is in an old car
Still not sure what your oil budget is? If it's like most of us lol
That's a pretty mild deal so no need for an expensive oil IMHO
I would go to NAPA or anyone that cat get you VR-1 in a straight 30W. I'd guess you drive few miles so I'd dump it ever 6 to 9 months. You could spend the $'s and test a UOA and see How the TBN and solubles look also. There use to be a Schaeffer's sponsor on here. If you want to spend a little more, they make a great oil.
That's a pretty mild deal so no need for an expensive oil IMHO
I would go to NAPA or anyone that cat get you VR-1 in a straight 30W. I'd guess you drive few miles so I'd dump it ever 6 to 9 months. You could spend the $'s and test a UOA and see How the TBN and solubles look also. There use to be a Schaeffer's sponsor on here. If you want to spend a little more, they make a great oil.
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I didn't even know Valvoline made VR-1 in 30 wt. Around here I only see it in 50 wt.Thanks for the advice. I just changed the oil with Rotella T 15w-40 but I'll look for the 30 wt. VR-1 if the upcoming Penn Grade 1 VOA looks lousy.
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