It works as far as the shop is concerned. My shop always puts the 3months/3K mile on the windshield. I don't particularly care one way or another. But for people who don't know how to pop up the hood and do periodic checking, it is better to have them show up at the shop every 3 months.
Why are we still living in the "dark ages?"
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Dealers do the same thing. They want my mom back in with her 2015 Yoda at 10k miles. The OM says every 10k.
If I am not mistaken, OM says 10k or yearly. That thing looks to be a PIA to change the oil on though. The front skid plate has to come off to get to the filter.
If I am not mistaken, OM says 10k or yearly. That thing looks to be a PIA to change the oil on though. The front skid plate has to come off to get to the filter.
Say $16.00 for 5 quarts of oil.
3000 miles = $0.005 per mile
5000 miles = $0.003 per mile
7500 miles = $0.002 per mile
Not much difference.
For reference:
Say $2.20 for 1 gallon of gas.
At 20 mpg = $0.11 per mile
From a quick Internet search: Repowering a typical car or truck with a rebuilt – remanufactured engine costs between $2,250 to $4,000 or about 10% to 20% of the cost of a new vehicle.
In the past, I've wiped a car's cam and seized a lawnmower engine due to inattention to lubrication. Bitter lessons.
Maybe I'll extend my OCI when I have a car with an OLM, but I'll still change it on the conservative side.
3000 miles = $0.005 per mile
5000 miles = $0.003 per mile
7500 miles = $0.002 per mile
Not much difference.
For reference:
Say $2.20 for 1 gallon of gas.
At 20 mpg = $0.11 per mile
From a quick Internet search: Repowering a typical car or truck with a rebuilt – remanufactured engine costs between $2,250 to $4,000 or about 10% to 20% of the cost of a new vehicle.
In the past, I've wiped a car's cam and seized a lawnmower engine due to inattention to lubrication. Bitter lessons.
Maybe I'll extend my OCI when I have a car with an OLM, but I'll still change it on the conservative side.
Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Must be a regional thing. I worked at a garage in high school 10 years ago and we put 5000 miles on the stickers using bulk 5w30. Unless the engine had a carb on it. Then 3k. I don't know of a single person or shop that uses 3000 mile intervals currently. Most of my friends that pay for oil changes have stickers stating 5000-7500 miles. My 95 Accord has a owners manual full of 7500 mile oil changes starting from day one at a local garage.
I thought even the lowest of the low would use 3,000 but I saw this when I check the Jiffy Lube site;
Times have changed. Vehicle technology has advanced.
Manufacturer recommendations vary. Driving conditions vary.
At Jiffy Lube, we know that the standard 3,000 mile oil change reminder does not work for everyone.
Your Voice Your Choice. What does that mean?
When you choose Jiffy Lube to service your vehicle, we will review with you the oil change recommendation from your vehicle manufacturer as well as the driving conditions you typically experience. Armed with that information, YOU TELL US what mileage interval you want on your Jiffy Lube reminder sticker.
Every dealer and quickie lube around tells you 3k. They want your money, thats all it is. They know oci's are a lot longer these days
When I had my Magnum, the dealer told me "follow the manual". (That car was 7500.)
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Must be a regional thing. I worked at a garage in high school 10 years ago and we put 5000 miles on the stickers using bulk 5w30. Unless the engine had a carb on it. Then 3k. I don't know of a single person or shop that uses 3000 mile intervals currently. Most of my friends that pay for oil changes have stickers stating 5000-7500 miles. My 95 Accord has a owners manual full of 7500 mile oil changes starting from day one at a local garage.
I thought even the lowest of the low would use 3,000 but I saw this when I check the Jiffy Lube site;
Times have changed. Vehicle technology has advanced.
Manufacturer recommendations vary. Driving conditions vary.
At Jiffy Lube, we know that the standard 3,000 mile oil change reminder does not work for everyone.
Your Voice Your Choice. What does that mean?
When you choose Jiffy Lube to service your vehicle, we will review with you the oil change recommendation from your vehicle manufacturer as well as the driving conditions you typically experience. Armed with that information, YOU TELL US what mileage interval you want on your Jiffy Lube reminder sticker.
Every dealer and quickie lube around tells you 3k. They want your money, thats all it is. They know oci's are a lot longer these days
When I had my Magnum, the dealer told me "follow the manual". (That car was 7500.)
Most of us here understand extended oil change intervals.
However, it's also clear that certain GM and Hyundai engines fail early, often within the warranty period, when extended drain intervals are used.
The ultra thin oil, coupled with extended drain is unable to lubricate the internal chains, and the particulates create an environment of rapid chain wear.
A simple oil change removes these contaminates from the engine and extends service life.
From GM: "Product investigators found that recalibrating the oil-life monitor will help the chains last longer, Adler said"
In other words, too many warranty claims.
However, since I have an interest in avoiding unnecessary repairs, I stick to 5000 mile syn change intervals.
However, it's also clear that certain GM and Hyundai engines fail early, often within the warranty period, when extended drain intervals are used.
The ultra thin oil, coupled with extended drain is unable to lubricate the internal chains, and the particulates create an environment of rapid chain wear.
A simple oil change removes these contaminates from the engine and extends service life.
From GM: "Product investigators found that recalibrating the oil-life monitor will help the chains last longer, Adler said"
In other words, too many warranty claims.
However, since I have an interest in avoiding unnecessary repairs, I stick to 5000 mile syn change intervals.
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Originally Posted By: CR94
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
... I worked at a garage in high school 10 years ago and we put 5000 miles on the stickers using bulk 5w30. Unless the engine had a carb on it. Then 3k. ...
That "3k" made no sense, except as a way to increase business. Car manufacturers suggested oil change intervals at least twice that long for carbureted engines several decades before that. For my '81 Mazda, 7500 miles. I typically changed oil at around 6000. It went over 600K with remarkably little evidence of wear or other problems that could be blamed on engine oil. How changing oil twice as often would've been any better isn't clear.
81 Mazda might not be comparative to the whole. And at the time of writing those stickers these engines/carbs were usually 20+ years old. Fuel dilution is a real concern. A carb never stops pumping fuel into the engine, fuel injection cuts fuel on deceleration. It adds up.
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
... I worked at a garage in high school 10 years ago and we put 5000 miles on the stickers using bulk 5w30. Unless the engine had a carb on it. Then 3k. ...
That "3k" made no sense, except as a way to increase business. Car manufacturers suggested oil change intervals at least twice that long for carbureted engines several decades before that. For my '81 Mazda, 7500 miles. I typically changed oil at around 6000. It went over 600K with remarkably little evidence of wear or other problems that could be blamed on engine oil. How changing oil twice as often would've been any better isn't clear.
81 Mazda might not be comparative to the whole. And at the time of writing those stickers these engines/carbs were usually 20+ years old. Fuel dilution is a real concern. A carb never stops pumping fuel into the engine, fuel injection cuts fuel on deceleration. It adds up.
My father's Subaru dealer puts 3k on the stickers, but I think that's because they want him to come in more often so they can tell him he needs $1000 in extra maintenance--and I'm not kidding! I doubt he has ever left after a routine service without spending a minimum of $300. For myself, I have been driving my own cars for 37 years and I have yet to suffer from a major engine failure. For most of that period I used whatever cheapy oil change places put in the car, and usually at least double or more 3k since I drove a lot. Some of those vehicles were just driven into the ground with rare oil and filter changes, and only the cheapest oil I could find topping up. The main advantage I see with today's engines in using better synthetic oil and filters is extended drain intervals (I would go up to 10k or so) and also cleaner running that helps avoid expensive O2 sensor changes and gummed up pollution controls. Anyone remember that taxi test in NYC that found there was no difference in using cheap oil or good oil? Should you change oil at 3k Here's a link to a copy of the article. Bottom line was that 6k intervals showed no increased wear over 3k intervals.
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Quote:
For the record, I run 7500k intervals on Amsoil XL 5w-30 in my 2004 Toyota Tacoma and 5000k intervals on Rotella T 15w-40 in my 1997 Ford F-250 Powerstroke diesel. Am I wasting my oil life as well?
7500k = 7,500,000
5000k = 5,000,000
No sir, you are NOT wasting your oil!
For the record, I run 7500k intervals on Amsoil XL 5w-30 in my 2004 Toyota Tacoma and 5000k intervals on Rotella T 15w-40 in my 1997 Ford F-250 Powerstroke diesel. Am I wasting my oil life as well?
7500k = 7,500,000
5000k = 5,000,000
No sir, you are NOT wasting your oil!
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If you have a Toyota 1MZ-FE or 3MZ-FE, the 5000 or 7500 mile in the owner's manual interval is not good enough.
My dad knew a guy who had to have the engine replaced in a Toyota Avalon because he trusted the owner's manual.
The way I see it, quick lubes don't want to get blamed for mechanical problems, so they recommend 3000 mile oil changes.
My dad knew a guy who had to have the engine replaced in a Toyota Avalon because he trusted the owner's manual.
The way I see it, quick lubes don't want to get blamed for mechanical problems, so they recommend 3000 mile oil changes.
Originally Posted By: Joe90_guy
For a long time, I used to formulate oils for a living. For every new iteration of the oil specifications, be they American or European, the tests become more numerous, more complicated and ever harder to pass and you need increasing amounts of expensive additives and better quality base oil.
Given the level of blood, sweat and tears (not to mention the gargantuan amounts of cash) that get poured into developing oils, I always used to weep when I saw the fruits our our collective labours thrown away after 3,000 miles!
It's like spending years creating the most delicious bottle of wine, then watching someone open the bottle, drink a couple of glasses and then pour the rest down the sink! I often used to muse that some clever entrepreneur might make his fortune by collecting all the oil that Americans prematurely throw away, recanning it and exporting it to the Developing World where it good for at least another 6,000 miles of use!
Engines are cheap, oil is expensive, right?
For a long time, I used to formulate oils for a living. For every new iteration of the oil specifications, be they American or European, the tests become more numerous, more complicated and ever harder to pass and you need increasing amounts of expensive additives and better quality base oil.
Given the level of blood, sweat and tears (not to mention the gargantuan amounts of cash) that get poured into developing oils, I always used to weep when I saw the fruits our our collective labours thrown away after 3,000 miles!
It's like spending years creating the most delicious bottle of wine, then watching someone open the bottle, drink a couple of glasses and then pour the rest down the sink! I often used to muse that some clever entrepreneur might make his fortune by collecting all the oil that Americans prematurely throw away, recanning it and exporting it to the Developing World where it good for at least another 6,000 miles of use!
Engines are cheap, oil is expensive, right?
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
My father's Subaru dealer puts 3k on the stickers, but I think that's because they want him to come in more often so they can tell him he needs $1000 in extra maintenance--and I'm not kidding! I doubt he has ever left after a routine service without spending a minimum of $300. For myself, I have been driving my own cars for 37 years and I have yet to suffer from a major engine failure. For most of that period I used whatever cheapy oil change places put in the car, and usually at least double or more 3k since I drove a lot. Some of those vehicles were just driven into the ground with rare oil and filter changes, and only the cheapest oil I could find topping up. The main advantage I see with today's engines in using better synthetic oil and filters is extended drain intervals (I would go up to 10k or so) and also cleaner running that helps avoid expensive O2 sensor changes and gummed up pollution controls. Anyone remember that taxi test in NYC that found there was no difference in using cheap oil or good oil? Should you change oil at 3k Here's a link to a copy of the article. Bottom line was that 6k intervals showed no increased wear over 3k intervals.
The Subaru dealer might be doing that low interval to "CYA" on all their cars with oil consumption problems. Some are losing 3 quarts in that span.
My father's Subaru dealer puts 3k on the stickers, but I think that's because they want him to come in more often so they can tell him he needs $1000 in extra maintenance--and I'm not kidding! I doubt he has ever left after a routine service without spending a minimum of $300. For myself, I have been driving my own cars for 37 years and I have yet to suffer from a major engine failure. For most of that period I used whatever cheapy oil change places put in the car, and usually at least double or more 3k since I drove a lot. Some of those vehicles were just driven into the ground with rare oil and filter changes, and only the cheapest oil I could find topping up. The main advantage I see with today's engines in using better synthetic oil and filters is extended drain intervals (I would go up to 10k or so) and also cleaner running that helps avoid expensive O2 sensor changes and gummed up pollution controls. Anyone remember that taxi test in NYC that found there was no difference in using cheap oil or good oil? Should you change oil at 3k Here's a link to a copy of the article. Bottom line was that 6k intervals showed no increased wear over 3k intervals.
The Subaru dealer might be doing that low interval to "CYA" on all their cars with oil consumption problems. Some are losing 3 quarts in that span.
I'm not disagreeing with the OP's notion that 3k/3mo OCIs are likely overkill, but in some cases, they're the MFGR recommended OCI.
For example, I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota with the 3.7l V6. The "standard" OCI is 6000 miles, and the "Severe" OCI is 3000 miles. The catch is that the requirements for the "Severe" service are so ludicrously easy that my pickup usually qualifies in one or two ways on every OCI, and mine's a 22 miles a day daily driver at about 60% road/40% highway, so nothing *that* unusual.
The list of qualifying conditions for 'Severe' service (copied from the PDF owner's manual):
I usually qualify under one of the temp related ones, and the stop & go traffic one, and sometimes dusty conditions.
That said, I think I've held to 5k-6k OCIs anyway- once a year is right about 5k-6k, so that's what I do, and for the most part with synthetic. So far, knock on wood, my engine's doing just peachy at 87k miles.
For example, I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota with the 3.7l V6. The "standard" OCI is 6000 miles, and the "Severe" OCI is 3000 miles. The catch is that the requirements for the "Severe" service are so ludicrously easy that my pickup usually qualifies in one or two ways on every OCI, and mine's a 22 miles a day daily driver at about 60% road/40% highway, so nothing *that* unusual.
The list of qualifying conditions for 'Severe' service (copied from the PDF owner's manual):
- Day or night temperatures are below 32°F (0°C).
- Stop and Go driving.
- Extensive engine idling.
- Driving in dusty conditions.
- Short trips of less than 10 miles (16.2 km).
- More than 50% of your driving is at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C).
- Trailer towing, Taxi, Police or delivery service (commercial service).
- Off-Road or desert operation.
- If equipped for and operating with E-85 (ethanol) fuel.
I usually qualify under one of the temp related ones, and the stop & go traffic one, and sometimes dusty conditions.
That said, I think I've held to 5k-6k OCIs anyway- once a year is right about 5k-6k, so that's what I do, and for the most part with synthetic. So far, knock on wood, my engine's doing just peachy at 87k miles.
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