Kinematic viscosity at 100C is what it is regardless of the VIIs. If Oil A with no VIIs has KV100 of 10 cSt, and Oil B with lots of VIIs has KV100 of 10 cSt, then they both will flow exactly the same at 100C. If you saw a difference, then it was due to factors like the actual temperature of the oil when drained, the level of viscosity change over the OCI, etc. Could also be one was a "thin 30" vs the other a "thick 30" (SAE grades have a viscosiy range).
Whats the least expensive JASO MA spec full synthetic?
- Thread starter grampi
- Start date
polymer chains (viscosity index improvers) used in multiweights do thicken oil, that's true. They also have poor shear stability, getting mechanically cut in gearboxes (permanent shear.) The thickening effect is lost as a result of permanent shear. VII's are very thick (like STP), and when making multigrades, a blender uses relatively thin oils to add the VII to.
At that molecular weight it has to be a solid.
Yes one of the vagaries of the eye viscometer.
who here besides me has tested:
sae30
sae40
10w30
10w40
all from the same oil company, in the same motor, for very close to the same amount of engine hours by the same lab?
to know the REAL answers
Bueller?
Bueller?
Bueller?
sae30
sae40
10w30
10w40
all from the same oil company, in the same motor, for very close to the same amount of engine hours by the same lab?
to know the REAL answers
Bueller?
Bueller?
Bueller?
Because the Marketing Department for Walmart hasn't stamped it on the bottle. hahahahha
Yeah, I get your drift and we all know that hundreds... if not thousands of riders are darn happy with SupertTech 15w40 in the sumps of their bikes.
It isn't my first choice, but I also wouldn't shun it if it were the only choice... and I would feel good about it.
If the spec is listed on the bottle, it meets the standard. It has nothing to do with marketing...marketing is what goes on the bottle to get guys to pay boo coo bucks for a boutique brand...
2x
I prefer API certified oils, not qualified.
But API has no qualifications for motorcycle oils.
Not at all. It can only mean that out of all the products a blender produces this is the one they recommend for the application. Without the license you really have no idea if an unlicensed product meets all of the technical requirements of that license.
And a JASO license is not “boo coo bucks.”
Then why have a required standard at all if it isn't going to be complied with, or enforced?
If an oil manufacturer puts "Meets or exceeds JASO MA2" on the bottle I'd have to believe that it meets or exceeds the JASO specifications, even if it's not officially registered with JASO. Only way to verify if their statement is true would be to have a certified lab that does JASO type spec testing to verify if it really meets JASO or not. Also possible that oil competitors may have it tested to verify, and if it didn't meet JASO specs, call them out on it for false advertising.
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JASO doesn't enforce anything. See post above, a 3rd party would have to verify their "meets JASO" claim.
This was several years ago in sport bike 400 mile , oil was castrol straight 30 weight. I use 10w30/5w30, routinely in other motors, from super tech to valvoline . Never seen an oil blow out like thin water, and no drip in 30 seconds like that straight castrol did in that sport bike.
It was extremely thin, I lay money a 10w30 would not have thinned out as much.
I run VR1 SAE 40 in my bike and I have never seen it drain out noticeably quicker or thinner than a multigrade 40 (I always do hot oil changes).
Too late for you now, but if an oil drained out of my bike's sump like you described, I'd be sending it off for a UOA.
I would buy a brand name oil , I use20w50 mobile for my Harley now days,,,,,buy the best you can afford,,,but really, ask yourself how much is engine rebuild,,,,really expensive......now how much is the cheapest open heart orps can you buy,,,,never skip on cheap oils imho.....
But a mfgr can recommend an oil to use. The manual for my Kawasaki Voyager says to use an oil that has the JASO 2 ,or an API SL rating. Apparently those ratings will keep the bike from having any oil related clutch slippage problems. It also says the oil can be the regular, blended, or synthetic types.I guess they have enough confidence in either type, to do it's intended job.,,,
Yeah I can’t imagine how the base stock composition would make any significant difference.
it comes in 20w50 too, my experience with it (long term) , was clutch slippage, the Dino version no issue.
MA2 on the bottle means Jack chit , also mobil super 1300 diesil is a stronger clutch oil than Valvo full syn.
its going to come down too how slick of oil your clutch can take, the Valvo syn is very slick.
I went through plates, heavier springs, Never thinking it was the oil, cause Id ran the Dino version for years, even the full syn occasionally during that time, but once I went to it the Full syn full time, the slippage was not fixable, till i stopped running that oil.
Just to get rid of it, I might use a 1/4 to 1/2 quart nowadays, mixed with a known strong clutch oil , just to get rid of it, I have like 6 or 7 bottles left.
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I see this is an old post but have you ever tried ordering it from Walmart online?
The Valvoline synthetic 10/40 is $8.89 and the conventional $6.37
