What is your cars recommended wheel nut torque?

I'm just curious to see if most wheels are torqued to about the same pressure. Are steel wheels different than alloy wheels?

The 2011 Camry, for all wheels on all models, specifies 76 ft. lbs. of torque for the bolts. Would aftermarket wheels require a different rating?

What's the rating for your car?

The determining factor in most torque applications is clamp load, more commonly known as "squeeze". This is usually measured by stretch in a fastener. For simple applications like lug nuts (yes they are simple compared to many joints) this is determined by fastener diameter and thread pitch (threads per inch).

I use 100lbs-ft for the van & Jeep and 150lbs-ft for my Ram.

Just my $0.02
 
The determining factor in most torque applications is clamp load, more commonly known as "squeeze". This is usually measured by stretch in a fastener. For simple applications like lug nuts (yes they are simple compared to many joints) this is determined by fastener diameter and thread pitch (threads per inch).

I use 100lbs-ft for the van & Jeep and 150lbs-ft for my Ram.

Just my $0.02

I was just typing something similar and then saw your reply. Almost everything 12mm is between 75-90, 14mm between 90-100, 1/2" is around 100 as well, and 9/16" around 140-150.
 
My late lamented Mazda specified 65-80 foot-pounds on steel wheels.
Toyota says 76 on both the aluminum wheels and steel spare.
I use less.
 
The fleet I maintained I used torque wrench easy google to find the exact torque,let say most toyota's 76 ft/lbs.Latest subaru 89 etc.My cars I use cross wrench by feel,when car on flat ground turn the nuts until car moves a little then drive around the block and check it again . I scratch my gray hair when cars came that I will need a piece of pipe/breaker to cross wrench to loosen- feel like over 100 ft/lbs and to do it for 20 lug nuts,wow.
 
Mercedes/BMW/Porsche - all 90lbs with my Harbour Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench.

Note: although tire shops use them, been suggested NOT to use a gun to loosen wheels but use a breaker bar for the initial break (??). Sorry, can't resist expanding the content under discussion. Seems relevant.
 
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Here are the nuts on my wheels. The biggest nut is on the drivers seat . :ROFLMAO:
 
The data points would be more useful if you knew the bolt/thread size, type of seat, and wheel construction.

Otherwise, they’re just random numbers.
2006 Focus 100 lbf-ft / 135 N-mM12 x 1.5 4 studs
2018 Outback89 lbf·ft (120 N·m)M12 x 1.25 5 studs
I just do 100+lb-ft on the beam wrench on them all, which stretches the outback studs a smidge more. I have mazda 3 alloy rims on the outback winters which may have a different nut seat than the nuts? Radius vs cone? in the 3rd winter they seat pretty solid now, but before I had to do a bit extra before the nut felt "bottomed out". With steel rims you can watch the wheel start to flex around the nut and adds some more range of tension. Alloys don't work that way, its just the studs than stretches.
When I get work done at the subaru dealer they still put the lugs tighter than me it seems anyways... Not crazy, but my impact notices.
 
2016 and 2017 Ford F150
M14x1. 5 Open End Bulge Acorn Lug Nut - 19mm Hex - 60 Degree Cone Seat
150 ft lbs, (which seems overkill to me)
 
A few days ago I took a front wheel off to measure pad and rotor thickness. I noticed that the wheel bolts were slightly greasy. I just wiped them clean but did not degrease them. I don't care for screeching metal-on-metal sounds when torquing.




 
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MINI/BMW apparently. And California as well. In the
rust belt it most probably wouldn't look that fine.
.
Maybe. The car does spend most of its time near the ocean. I frequently drive over seawater puddles and park on sand right by the ocean. No road salt. The car will turn 8 this coming year.
 
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