What is the best 5w-30 for cleaning / keeping an engine clean these days?

M1 and Castrol 40 weights have been excellent to my Honda but i also ran 30 weights at some points in my old Subaru (0W-30 castrol, 5W-30 PP, 10W-30 M1). i typically run a 6-8k mile OCI with OEM filters.

current Honda K20 at 108k:
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past Subaru EJ25 at 130k:
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admittedly i'm not straining either oil with those oil change intervals, but regardless i'm happy with their performance both in keeping the engines clean and their UOA readings.
 
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This was just posted the other day and he used nothing but a conventional/blend so I think it has more to do with shorter OCI's than the oil it self as others have said.
 
synthetic oils and a reasonable OCI For the service. The best oil for cleanliness is one that has not lost its ability to hold contaminants in suspension. Not having oxidative deposits Is also a consideration. A well formulated and manufacturer approved oil will keep you within the lines there, they have paid for a lot of testing to get those approvals.
More and more engines seem to be running cleaner and cleaner, perhaps we owe this to the move to more synthetic oils with Dexos and 0w20 recommendations among manufacturers.
Even as a thick oil believer these trends Have probably lead to cleaner engines in the U.S. Fleet.
 
I'm so jealous of some of you guys. I've run M1 10W30 in my Volvo since 2005 and I've never ever seen my engine that clean. Highway only and
I was thinking of going to Royal Purple, since I saw a YT Video from a BMW guy shocked at how quickly the RP oil was cleaning his engine.
 
I'm so jealous of some of you guys. I've run M1 10W30 in my Volvo since 2005 and I've never ever seen my engine that clean. Highway only and
I was thinking of going to Royal Purple, since I saw a YT Video from a BMW guy shocked at how quickly the RP oil was cleaning his engine.

The Auto-Rx I used recommended using conventional oil with their product in the cleaning and rinse phase to obtain the best results... ???
I've also had good results using Marvel Mystery Oil with conventional and synthetic oils...
 
The Auto-Rx I used recommended using conventional oil with their product in the cleaning and rinse phase to obtain the best results... ???
I've also had good results using Marvel Mystery Oil with conventional and synthetic oils...

The instructions say it's ok to use synthetic you just have to run it longer, at least 4,000 miles.
 
Let me rephrase:

What is the additive technology used in current SN+ oil to look for in VOAs that would indicate the ability to "clean" or de sludge or de varnish an engine. Or perhaps its a matter of base oil, but I didn't think so. Do PCMO's clean as well or better as something like a ck-4 diesel 5w-30 or 10w-30?

This would be paired with a fram ultra with reasonable or even shorter if needed ocis to clean, but that is a different topic.

I have not seen any before/after evidence that an oil can clean varnish. I recently posted a picture of a Honda 2.4 engine after 100K of conventional oil. The engine had light varnish. A second picture was taken (at 145K) after running synthetic oil for 45k miles, there was no change.
 
I’m sure plenty of oils will personally in all of our vehicles we use Castrol, Valvoline, Mobil 1 and occasionally Pennzoil or Royal Purple they all have kept our engines clean and all great oils. I have ran nothing but 10W-40 Castrol GTX in my truck since I got it in 2018 the engine is very clean it does an amazing job.
 
I'm so jealous of some of you guys. I've run M1 10W30 in my Volvo since 2005 and I've never ever seen my engine that clean. Highway only and
I was thinking of going to Royal Purple, since I saw a YT Video from a BMW guy shocked at how quickly the RP oil was cleaning his engine.
I’ve had great luck with Royal Purple. A lot of the people I know recommend it for keeping the engine clean. Castrol and Valvoline also do an amazing job The Royal Purple is expensive but good.
 
M1 and Castrol 40 weights have been excellent to my Honda but i also ran 30 weights at some points in my old Subaru (0W-30 castrol, 5W-30 PP, 10W-30 M1). i typically run a 6-8k mile OCI with OEM filters.

current Honda K20 at 108k:
OX6ZH3vl.jpg

GbKpTkOl.jpg


past Subaru EJ25 at 130k:
tF4JMSYl.jpg

LQVtjIVl.jpg


admittedly i'm not straining either oil with those oil change intervals, but regardless i'm happy with their performance both in keeping the engines clean and their UOA readings.
Were the 40W's you used in your Honda all 0W40s? Does your Honda spec a W20? Makes me curious about trying a 0W40 in my Accord. That's a seriously clean engine!
 
Were the 40W's you used in your Honda all 0W40s? Does your Honda spec a W20? Makes me curious about trying a 0W40 in my Accord. That's a seriously clean engine!

yes, so far i've only ran 0W-40's (M1, Pennz Plat, and currently Castrol), knowing upfront that they're more of a "thick 30" than a stout 40 weight. Honda specs a 5W-30 for North American models of my Si with the K20Z engine, but internationally they're specced for up to a 5W-40. due to my performance driving habits and very hot weather, as well as wanting to extend my OCI as far as possible (doing an oil change on these is a nightmare) is what made me want to step up to something thicker than a 30 weight. the 0W-40 grade seems like a nice middle ground between a standard 30wt and going to a 5W-40. no regrets at all - the car seems to love it based on UOAs (you can search my username to see my past 2 reports, and i'll have a 3rd coming soon) and i've almost eliminated any VTC rattle, which is something I had on startup when i bought the car 25k miles ago.

i believe your accord runs a lower revving K24, basically a stroked version of my engine with a much lower redline. given the more pedestrian nature of the driving habits you probably experience, i'd feel content with a 30 weight especially if your current UOAs are good. that said, i strongly doubt a relatively light 40wt like M1 would do any harm and would likely make a fine 10k mile interval oil.
 
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yes, so far i've only ran 0W-40's (M1, Pennz Plat, and currently Castrol), knowing upfront that they're more of a "thick 30" than a stout 40 weight. Honda specs a 5W-30 for North American models of my Si with the K20Z engine, but internationally they're specced for up to a 5W-40. due to my performance driving habits and very hot weather, as well as wanting to extend my OCI as far as possible (doing an oil change on these is a nightmare) is what made me want to step up to something thicker than a 30 weight. the 0W-40 grade seems like a nice middle ground between a 30 and going to a 5W-40. no regrets at all - the car seems to love it based on UOAs (you can search my username to see my past 2 reports, and i'll have a 3rd coming soon) and i've almost eliminated any VTC rattle, which is something I had on startup when i bought the car 25k miles ago.

i believe your accord runs a lower revving K24, basically a stroked version of my engine with a much lower redline. given the more pedestrian nature of the driving habits you probably experience, i'd feel content with a 30 weight especially if your current UOAs are good. that said, i strongly doubt a relatively light 40wt like M1 would do any harm and would likely make a fine 10k mile interval oil.
Funny you mentioned VTC rattle, mine rattled with 0W20,and no rattles whatsoever on 10W30. Here's my uoa with Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 10W30. The first one was Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W20. Of the 0W40s you used, did you have any brand preference?

 
Funny you mentioned VTC rattle, mine rattled with 0W20,and no rattles whatsoever on 10W30. Here's my uoa with Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 10W30. The first one was Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W20. Of the 0W40s you used, did you have any brand preference?

those are great UOAs, you could do a 5k mile run with ease even given your short tripping. your engine seems to like the 30wt a little better based on aluminum wear. being a timing chain engine doesn't hurt the cause either.

no brand preference, i buy whatever's on sale and aim for $20 a jug. my goal is to try the "big 3" in my engine just to see if there's any notable difference for the sake of curiosity - M1, Pennzoil, and Castrol. so far i've tried the first 2 and Castrol is in the sump right now. i found that M1 and PP gave nearly identical results. i'm sure Castrol will be a good performer too. no plans to step up to boutique oils, i don't see the point.
 
those are great UOAs, you could do a 5k mile run with ease even given your short tripping. your engine seems to like the 30wt a little better based on aluminum wear. being a timing chain engine doesn't hurt the cause either.

no brand preference, i buy whatever's on sale and aim for $20 a jug. my goal is to try the "big 3" in my engine just to see if there's any notable difference for the sake of curiosity - M1, Pennzoil, and Castrol. so far i've tried the first 2 and Castrol is in the sump right now. i found that M1 and PP gave nearly identical results. i'm sure Castrol will be a good performer too. no plans to step up to boutique oils, i don't see the point.
Do you notice any differences in smoothness and quietness with the three brands you’ve tried so far?
 
Do you notice any differences in smoothness and quietness with the three brands you’ve tried so far?

between the 3; no. i didn't expect to either. all of the things that have affected the engine smoothness and noise have been related to outside repairs (valve adjustment, injector cleaning, new belt pulleys, etc)
 
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Ester base oil is more polar better cleaning power gtl and poa not that polar like esters but pup is good cleaning oil like Mobil 1 pup ester very little to no ester 1> 5% if you have spent more get redline or Amsoil ss both better than Mobil 1 or pup buth cost 2 times more
I have no clue in the world what this means. My gibberish is very poor!
 
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Ester base oil is more polar better cleaning power gtl and poa not that polar like esters but pup is good cleaning oil like Mobil 1 pup ester very little to no ester 1> 5% if you have spent more get redline or Amsoil ss both better than Mobil 1 or pup buth cost 2 times more
Make yourself like a tampon and grab a couple of periods there, Ace.

I gotta go lie down now.
 
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