I wonder what oil that would beYou should be running the absolute best oil to go with the absolute best filter.
Filtering air and filtering oil are somewhat two different animals, expect for the overlap of where introducing unfiltered air into the cylinders can cause some of that contamination to blow-by the rings and get into the oil. Once that ring blow-by, along with the normal combustion blow-by gets into the oil along with any internal wear contamination, then the only thing left to remove that contamination is the oil filter and/or an oil change. Dirty oil can also cause ring and cylinder wear. Piston rings pretty much live the roughest life in terms of what oil is used, along with what air and oil filters are used. To obtain the least engine wear over long term use, all three needed to be effective in doing their jobs.I'd worry more about the air filter. I would take great air filter and a k&n or mobile1 oil filter that does like 30 microns at 96% over a cheap air filter or janky air intake and the best oil filter setup money can buy.
We need a top ten list of "best threads"Another "best" thread!!
Typical BITOG question. Offers no details, and then wants a perfect answer.What filter on the market today is the best as far as durability, filtering efficiency, and fluid flowability?
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Use Subscribe and Save (S/S) and then cancel as necessary. I got these on S/S for about $7.20-ish a few months ago so it looks like price dropped a little more. Might not apply to other sizes but, for 7317 size, ultras were cheaper than TG.
Edit: I see the TG is available with S/S for $6.81 on Amazon but I'd pay the extra 16 cents for a nominal 5k more miles, unless I'm missing something about these filters.
Filters change over time. Old threads are basically useless. There’s value in updating with the latest info.Typical BITOG question. Offers no details, and then wants a perfect answer.
Sir - how about putting some effort into this on your end? Maybe mention the application, the planned OCIs and FCIs, any special circumstances, etc?
Or maybe, just maybe, review some of the 500+ other "what's the best filter" threads which already exist here ...
Don’t get any delta-P on yaThis is easy . . . Fram Tough Guard.
99% efficiency @ 20 microns and 15K miles life. All for $7.17
I've learned from ZeeOSix that our cars have positive displacement pumps so all filters will flow properly!
The problem is everyone looks at value in a different way along with a myriad of other differences. This thread will not determine an answer to the quesion.Filters change over time. Old threads are basically useless. There’s value in updating with the latest info.
Yeah but OP isn't looking for value, he's looking for the absolute best.The problem is everyone looks at value in a different way along with a myriad of other differences. This thread will not determine an answer to the quesion.
If he finds it - I’ll get one of these - two of them = winner !!!Yeah but OP isn't looking for value, he's looking for the absolute best.
I have more chance of finding bigfootYeah but OP isn't looking for value, he's looking for the absolute best.
Guaranteed the engine is going to see the most wear that's detrimental to operation at the top of the cylinder bore around the top ring.Filtering air and filtering oil are somewhat two different animals, expect for the overlap of where introducing unfiltered air into the cylinders can cause some of that contamination to blow-by the rings and get into the oil. Once that ring blow-by, along with the normal combustion blow-by gets into the oil along with any internal wear contamination, then the only thing left to remove that contamination is the oil filter and/or an oil change. Dirty oil can also cause ring and cylinder wear. Piston rings pretty much live the roughest life in terms of what oil is used, along with what air and oil filters are used. To obtain the least engine wear over long term use, all three needed to be effective in doing their jobs.
Lots of factors are involved, but in a nut shell the longer the OCI the better the oil and filters need to be. Dumping the sump is the only other way to remove contamination from the oil beside filtering it. The dirtier the oil is, and the longer it is circulated over and over through the oiling system will result in more long term engine wear. That's why the longer the OCI is, the more effective a higher efficiency oil filter will be. Of course, using a high efficiency oil filter really doesn't hurt even if the OCI is relatively short, and that's where lots of people will run a high efficiency wire-backed filter for 2 or 3 OCIs to improve the cost "return on investment".
Belgian beer is the best. The best Belgian beer is Leffe.While we're at it, what's the absolute best beer? I'm going to an office end of summer picnic/party that's BYOB and I want to upstage everyone else.
LoL ... PD oil pumps and delta-p, the most misunderstood aspects of an engine's oiling system.Don’t get any delta-P on ya
I wonder what oil that would be
Can you post up the detailed maintenace records of all these vehicles, showing exactly what oil and filters were used, and every oil change mileage and data?Study up on the high mile vehicles we see every posted here once in a while and you will find they are maintained properly running what ever filter and properly rated oil from one of the quality blenders. Prove me wrong.