What are we paying for?

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Its not about the performance out of the bottle, its the performance at the end of the oci. Things aren't binary where the oil suddenly turns into a pumpkin on a certain mile. It degrades as a scalar. So if the oil is bad in your mind at 7000 miles, what about at mile 6999 or 6998? What about mile 7001?

You are paying for that end of oci improved performance.
As noted the perspective works both ways. For the total cost of operation of the vehicle over thd oci, whats an extra $5 for thr full synthetic oil which maybe will pay for itself in fuel by staying closer to out of bottle performsnce during the last 1000miles of your oci.
If you can move to the annual oci that's a benefit. Even if you don't want that, it give you more flexibility if you get busy and can't do an oci on schedule; that future flexibility option might be worth $5.
 
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Industry standards are so low, I refuse to buy any product or service that meets industry standards.
Industry sets the standards, so why would they set them any higher than the absolute minimum?
BITOG should set the standard for motor oil!

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Originally Posted By: fenixguy
Oil is oil. I suppose there's no reason for this forum to exist anymore.
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Well it's still good for listing the sales and rebates out there for oil and other things. Too bad there's no more free oil. Years ago there used to be free G-oil, QSD, etc. Now it's just rebates and the yearly Autozone clearance.
 
Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: Iowegian
I would by the Supertech...if it wasn't for the $10 per jug rebate by pennzoil which makes it cheaper.
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You use your valuable time to fill out the form, buy a stamp (unless it's online), wait several weeks with a 50% chance you'll get a rebate. Once you get your check, you've got to take the effort to cash it....all for a few measly bucks. Of course, the rebate company sells your information to anybody who will buy it.
You really don't save as much money as you think you do.


Your time only has value if you are on the books being paid by someone, or if you are actually saving money somehow. You are worth nothing watching TV or sleeping. A $10 rebate done in ten minutes is worth $60/hr equivalent. Seems reasonable to me.

If your engine is OEM bone stock, yes the MFG requirements are all you need.

If you have built the engine, or modified it to make more power you are now on your own. If you AutoX it, or drag race it, or track day it in any way, you are on your own ... That's why you are here, to learn more than the local parts store counter person can tell you
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Wonder how many BITOG'ers mod their engines vs. the number who run OEM configs ...
 
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Originally Posted By: Snagglefoot
Originally Posted By: KevinP
If you buy Castrol Magnatec you get "intelligent" oil molecules. That is worth the extra five bucks for me.


I've found that dumb molecules can be more fun at parties!
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I thought possible proton decay in 10^31 to 10^36 years would be more fun.
 
So would my car even know it exceeded the spec? I don't know so I just keep buying the spec that meets and clean the old oil off my hands after doing the oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: BalticBob
you are paying to sponsor a NASCAR team....

Of course, some pay to sponsor something much more high end that does have R&D value in the long term.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
My engines don't last on oil "meeting minimum specs" Specs aint good enough for engines over 1HP/cu-in running low octane fuel, why do you think they keep "improving" them?


And your engines dont last using boutique oils either. It's time you started changing your methods. Because you are the exception.
 
I actually don’t mind the oil companies designing new fancy jugs and bottles. Some of these like Valvoline’s new jug are easier to pour and handle.

I started using oil when it was in cardboard cans that needed a oil spout. So any improvements over those flimsy and leaking cans was and still is a improvement in my book.

Of course, what’s inside is still the top priority.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Naw, it's the colors and the finish. I like seeing variety in my stash, predominated by blue
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But CVX does not always use blue bottles
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Originally Posted By: Camprunner
As I stand here in the oil section at WM and I look at all the 5 quart jug options I have noticed that price wise they are all pretty close with a few $ separating the cheep jug to the most expensive. So the question is if all the oils for a car meet the same specifications what am I paying for? Advertising? The best looking jug? I guess I am a sceptic that spending the few $ more for that five quart jug will really make a hill of beans difference in say a 7,000 mile OCI over 200-300,000 miles?


What you're paying for in at least some big brand oils is a superior basestock blend as well as higher additive levels and a more complete compliment of adds. You're also typically getting a higher dose of moly, the most costly of adds.
API SN is a very loose spec that allow for both unacceptably high NOACK and marginal W end performance for the grade.
If you're okay with that, then by all means use the cheap stuff but a number of the store brands wouldn't qualify for my OPEs much less the car engines I expect long life with low consumption from.
If you want something a little better, it's available for a few more dollars on the same shelf.
Plenty of information is available on this site.
 
When viewing those prices on the shelf, remember, who is paying for those oil ads during NASCAR races, Super Bowl games, etc. Or in my case with commercial oils, Mobil for instance, will drop hundreds of thousands of dollars on trucker jamborees, truck show events, etc and bring in top name music entertainment which doesn't come cheap. Who is paying for that? Yep, the poor sap who is buying that jug off the shelf. If you like doing that, then it really doesn't matter.

A casual look thru the PQIA website of various name brand a no name brand motor oils in the same class and grade usually doesn't show enough of a difference to justify the price spreads.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: Camprunner
As I stand here in the oil section at WM and I look at all the 5 quart jug options I have noticed that price wise they are all pretty close with a few $ separating the cheep jug to the most expensive. So the question is if all the oils for a car meet the same specifications what am I paying for? Advertising? The best looking jug? I guess I am a sceptic that spending the few $ more for that five quart jug will really make a hill of beans difference in say a 7,000 mile OCI over 200-300,000 miles?


What you're paying for in at least some big brand oils is a superior basestock blend as well as higher additive levels and a more complete compliment of adds. You're also typically getting a higher dose of moly, the most costly of adds.
API SN is a very loose spec that allow for both unacceptably high NOACK and marginal W end performance for the grade.
If you're okay with that, then by all means use the cheap stuff but a number of the store brands wouldn't qualify for my OPEs much less the car engines I expect long life with low consumption from.
If you want something a little better, it's available for a few more dollars on the same shelf.
Plenty of information is available on this site.

Yes … just like the member finding Delvac Super so cheap … that’s a 10.2 NOACK and +4 HTHS … great oil for the money and carries enough approvals to back it up …
 
Although I believe synthetics are better in certain applications, I also believe, for many of us, the line in the sand between synthetics and convention was not drawn by the "Sword of Damocles". My engines for the last 30 odd years seems to agree.
 
I can buy two jugs of supertech conv for the same price as the name brand jug at 22-25.00 i usually reach for supertech anymore because my money goes farther with it and my cars have no problems using it if i buy name brand i wait till it is marked down in my price range.
 
Some engines perform better with certain oils. Depending on the vehicle design, driver, climate, and topography et al. Different strokes for different folks!




Respectfully,

Pajero!
 
Blackstone Labs recently went on record as saying that in all their oil analysis work, they've not yet come across any evidence that there are brands of oil that are "better" than others.
Use the correct oil, change it often and regularly, and your engine will not know the difference, whether it's Redline or SuperTech.
 
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