- Joined
- Feb 3, 2023
- Messages
- 70
I apologize, reading too fast at work I missed that and thought he had recommended only 0w30 drawing your ire. I will turn my pitchfork around and join you in asking what the huh you say?
VW 504 5w30 ok to replace 0w30 ?
- Thread starter 315431 Panda
- Start date
I apologize, reading too fast at work I missed that and thought he had recommended only 0w30 drawing your ire. I will turn my pitchfork around and join you in asking what the huh you say?
Incorrect , its a tiguan R with ea888 evo4 high output exact same as the mk8 R .... it is factory filled with 0w30 504.00 507.00 spec oil
i will upload a picture when i return home
twouvakind
Site Donor 2024
Mk 7.5 R, dropping in 5W30 504/507
next go round, still under warranty.
next go round, still under warranty.
Again the winter rating is both irrelevant and meaningless here.
VAG allow one top up of up to 1/2 litre of a non 508/509 0w20 oil
You can add 504 which is 5w30
Do you really think this is just about using a thinner oil for fuel economy?
As 508/509 0w20 is far more expensive than any other oil I have had to buy, there are more options than a year ago though
Back then all you could find was Motul Specific VW 508/509 at £80 for 5 litres
Now you can find
Castrol Edge Professional IV FE £65
Millers XF Premium C5 £45 (Approval Pending)
Total Quartz Ineo Long Life £56
Fuchs Titan GT1 Longlife IV £57
Total Quartz Ineo Xtra LongLife £55
On OpieOils
Last year I bought Motul to do an interim oil and filter in my daughters Q2 but this year I was going to consider using Castrol but it only meets the specs, it doesn’t have the approval.
So it will either be Motul Specific again or Fuchs Titan GT1 as it’s only £57
I see no value in saving £7 and using an oil not specified by VAG, who have been using longlife oils and extended service intervals for over 10 years in Europe, with the option of doing a more normal annual service at a much lower mileage.
2 years or 18000 miles seems a bit long to me so happy to do an interim oil and filter myself.
Even at 10k miles the oil in the Q2 is still relatively clean. The car is going to be kept for at least 6 years anyway
Audi servicing is expensive in the UK so I don’t mind taking it in every other year, £580 for a service at 2 years old and 15k miles, as Audi specify a Brake Fluid change at 2 years that isn’t included in the Service
So if at any time in the future the OP has an engine issue are you going to Warranty it for them?
Thats very generous
Whenever the term ROW is used it usually means the 3rd World or Australasia.
As an example you could buy (unless it has changed recently) ROW spec vehicles brand new that had Euro 3 diesel engines, cancelled orders of JLR vehicles used to be sold by a Company in the UK who would dispose of them at a decent price, but they were all for export only and could not be used on the road in the UK or EU.
Some where Chinese specification and some with noted as being originally intended for export to various Countries in Africa, Nigeria was a common one.
In VW vernacular, they usually divide a model into 2 markets. NAR for North American market cars (Canada, US, Mexico) and ROW for everywhere else. Differences are small amongst the ROW and are country specific. You can't get a car speced with lots of the goodies of a ROW car in the NAR, or even cool ones like a Golf R Estate or the Tiguan R in this thread.
It helps if you understand what the approval requires and what a winter rating means, and does not mean. Much less fear and confusion.
I know what it means
That doesn’t change my point
Are you going to warranty any engine issues that the manufacturer decides are due to using the wrong oil?
It’s a yes or no answer fella.
Not the start of one of your random series of posts that mean nothing
As an example
VAG states 0w20 508/509 for the 2020 1.5 TFSi engine.
They allow topping up once of a 5w30 oil that meets 504 up to 1/2 litre if you can’t find 0w20 508/509
Now why would they do that if they were happy for the car to run on 5w30 long term?
It’s different if the manufacturer has a list of different oil specs in the handbook that they deem acceptable
BMW specify LL04, LL14 and LL17FE.
Anything from 0w20 to 5w40
BMW Dealers use 5w30 LL04, not the later 0w20 LL17FE.
So I can top up with loads of different oils and when doing an interim oil and filter I have a huge range of oils to chose from.
That’s not the case with VAG now is it?
If you know better than the engineers at VAG then please list the Qualifications that allow you to overrule them?
I mean, it’s only Physics isn’t it…
Last edited:
Considering the winter rating may shift during use (and is allowed) I’d love to see anyone perform the ASTM tests for the rating and pronounce that an oil invalidates a warranty. But hey fella, you may be on to something.
In light of all that comprises the VW approval the winter rating really does mean nothing in Australia.
And by the way I’m not the only one saying this in the thread, make sure you go back and criticize others as well. Don’t want to be special.
In light of all that comprises the VW approval the winter rating really does mean nothing in Australia.
And by the way I’m not the only one saying this in the thread, make sure you go back and criticize others as well. Don’t want to be special.
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2023
- Messages
- 70
Yes. Do you have proof otherwise? Explain how a thinner oil with a lower HTHS is anything other than a friction modifier to reduce drag and increase efficiency? I'm holding my breath because kschachn is right you sadly do not understand the "winter weight" labeling and somehow think at ambient 70F there is some statistical difference in viscosity between a 0w30 and a 5w30. So I am fascinated to hear your research and physics documentation on what else 508/509 does besides increase fuel efficiency?
Price does not dictate anything other than what is being charged and what people are paying for. I can buy a part from FCPEuro made by the exact same company that makes the same part for the OEM, the only difference being the logo stamped on the part. One is more expensive, part is the same. There is certainly some additional R&D to recover from 508/509 but 508/509 is not made using Unobtanium and Unicorn Tears.
I mean, do I need to point out the irony? It's pretty obvious. You lecture about how the Europeans have been doing long drains and know what they are doing....then you state NO ONE should question the engineer......and then you state you do something different because you don't trust them.
Rrrriiiiggghhhhtttttt.
By the way......CLEARLY I know better than the VW/Audi engineers. That's why I am running 25+ psi of boost in my Golf R, it's why I replaced the brake rotors with slotted full floating 2-piece rotors, it's why I replaced my shift linkages with better parts. It's why my TTRS drinks E85 and is capable of 540HP+ on a pure blend of the stuff. It's why my Allroad now sits 2" lower and will be getting a boost to over 300HP soon. In reality the engineers did not design those cars to do that, so their recommendations for those puttering around town in "D" on the gear selector has no meaning to me. It would be like asking a butcher how to plant a garden.
Oh and before you lob your pretentious strawman at me I'll answer up front. No, I will not warranty any engine failures someone else has. What someone else does with their property is up to them and if they are making their sole decision on that important of a choice based off a post on an internet forum that's on them.
That doesn't mean we can't share information to consider and people aren't free to do their own research if they so choose. If you prefer to stick your fingers in your ears and yell LA LA LA LA and happy in your own assumptions and expectations it really isn't going to cause me any loss of sleep.
Me? I looked into the new spec, talked to HPL who actually MAKES oil, and only then sucked the ridiculous 0w20 factory fill out of my Allroad and put in some sweet HPL 5w30 for some protection while pushing 5000RPM+.
Oh....and I'm going to change the oil after 5000 miles too.
Of course if you read the manual the engineers printed you would see they list a whole mess of driving conditions that adjust the base recommended OCI and I am willing to bet you do more than one of them and ignore the engineers by going longer.
I am glad you have been so triggered by my question that you have spent hours reading my postsYes. Do you have proof otherwise? Explain how a thinner oil with a lower HTHS is anything other than a friction modifier to reduce drag and increase efficiency? I'm holding my breath because kschachn is right you sadly do not understand the "winter weight" labeling and somehow think at ambient 70F there is some statistical difference in viscosity between a 0w30 and a 5w30. So I am fascinated to hear your research and physics documentation on what else 508/509 does besides increase fuel efficiency?
Price does not dictate anything other than what is being charged and what people are paying for. I can buy a part from FCPEuro made by the exact same company that makes the same part for the OEM, the only difference being the logo stamped on the part. One is more expensive, part is the same. There is certainly some additional R&D to recover from 508/509 but 508/509 is not made using Unobtanium and Unicorn Tears.
I mean, do I need to point out the irony? It's pretty obvious. You lecture about how the Europeans have been doing long drains and know what they are doing....then you state NO ONE should question the engineer......and then you state you do something different because you don't trust them.
Rrrriiiiggghhhhtttttt.
By the way......CLEARLY I know better than the VW/Audi engineers. That's why I am running 25+ psi of boost in my Golf R, it's why I replaced the brake rotors with slotted full floating 2-piece rotors, it's why I replaced my shift linkages with better parts. It's why my TTRS drinks E85 and is capable of 540HP+ on a pure blend of the stuff. It's why my Allroad now sits 2" lower and will be getting a boost to over 300HP soon. In reality the engineers did not design those cars to do that, so their recommendations for those puttering around town in "D" on the gear selector has no meaning to me. It would be like asking a butcher how to plant a garden.
Oh and before you lob your pretentious strawman at me I'll answer up front. No, I will not warranty any engine failures someone else has. What someone else does with their property is up to them and if they are making their sole decision on that important of a choice based off a post on an internet forum that's on them.
That doesn't mean we can't share information to consider and people aren't free to do their own research if they so choose. If you prefer to stick your fingers in your ears and yell LA LA LA LA and happy in your own assumptions and expectations it really isn't going to cause me any loss of sleep.
Me? I looked into the new spec, talked to HPL who actually MAKES oil, and only then sucked the ridiculous 0w20 factory fill out of my Allroad and put in some sweet HPL 5w30 for some protection while pushing 5000RPM+.
Oh....and I'm going to change the oil after 5000 miles too.
Of course if you read the manual the engineers printed you would see they list a whole mess of driving conditions that adjust the base recommended OCI and I am willing to bet you do more than one of them and ignore the engineers by going longer.
I read a couple of lines of yours and got bored.
Though just to confirm you have read the Owners Manual for a 2020 Audi Q2 1.5 TFSi DSG for the UK market?
And I am more than happy with the choices made by the VAG engineers as far as oil choice goes, which I why I use an OE quality filter and the correct 0w20 508/509 oil.
I just understand that the 18k miles interval is there to get fleet sales rather than make the engine last for 20 years.
The engineers made choices based around the risk of an engine having a lubrication based failure in the first 3 years or 60k miles, which is unlikely
However the risk of a lubrication related failure after 10 years of 18k miles (or 2 years) oil and filter changes is far higher.
But the VAG engineers were not tasked with making the engine last forever, they were tasked in making it be cheap to maintain for the first 3 years and to minimise the possibility of a lubrication related failure in those 3 years
I don’t know what else you were muttering about, maybe somebody else can be bothered to read your drivel
I really like when somebody takes snippets of different posts with completely different contexts and tries to piece them together in some kind of gotcha post
Now run along and spend more hours reading the rest of my posts, or why not get a life?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2023
- Messages
- 70
I am glad you have been so triggered by my question that you have spent hours reading my posts
I read a couple of lines of yours and got bored.
Though just to confirm you have read the Owners Manual for a 2020 Audi Q2 1.5 TFSi DSG for the UK market?
And I am more than happy with the choices made by the VAG engineers as far as oil choice goes, which I why I use an OE quality filter and the correct 0w20 508/509 oil.
I just understand that the 18k miles interval is there to get fleet sales rather than make the engine last for 20 years.
The engineers made choices based around the risk of an engine having a lubrication based failure in the first 3 years or 60k miles, which is unlikely
However the risk of a lubrication related failure after 10 years of 18k miles (or 2 years) oil and filter changes is far higher.
But the VAG engineers were not tasked with making the engine last forever, they were tasked in making it be cheap to maintain for the first 3 years and to minimise the possibility of a lubrication related failure in those 3 years
I don’t know what else you were muttering about, maybe somebody else can be bothered to read your drivel
I really like when somebody takes snippets of different posts with completely different contexts and tries to piece them together in some kind of gotcha post
Now run along and spend more hours reading the rest of my posts, or why not get a life?
Spent hours reading your posts? I read two, took me less than 5 minutes, most of them are blank space anyway. You live in a special world.
That is a really long post directed at me considering you "got bored" after a couple lines. Also odd that you respond to every single thing I said, when you state you didn't read it. Seems like I am living rent free in your head. Gotta say, the accommodations are terrible, would not stay again.
But then, we have established that you have issues keeping even your own opinion straight. Somehow pointing out you make wildly contradictory statements doesn't matter because they were in two separate posts.....on the same page of the same thread?
Rest assured, I will not be wasting anymore time reading your posts, besides the misplaced arrogance coupled with crippling ignorance the grade school double spacing is annoying.
Attachments
Got a question for you guys ? Why else would every version of the latest ea888 switch from 504 5w30 / 0w30 to 508 0w20 except for the high performance high output engines ? Surely it’s about fuel economy and nothing else ?
I find it strange that 0w20 isn’t for the engines with the higher output in power well that is the case in Aus and Europe…. I remember there being talk of oil pumps etc etc when this spec was first released but I have looked at the internal parts for the oil pumps and they’re identical regardless of which oil spec they were filled with . With that being said why would VW not spec the 0w20 for the high output engines as well ?
Is the 0w20 not up to the task lubricating and protecting the more powerful variants of the ea888 ?
Anyways I decided to grab some shell ect c2 c3 0w30 and will use the mobil 1 esp 5w30 for the other Volkswagens in our family
I find it strange that 0w20 isn’t for the engines with the higher output in power well that is the case in Aus and Europe…. I remember there being talk of oil pumps etc etc when this spec was first released but I have looked at the internal parts for the oil pumps and they’re identical regardless of which oil spec they were filled with . With that being said why would VW not spec the 0w20 for the high output engines as well ?
Is the 0w20 not up to the task lubricating and protecting the more powerful variants of the ea888 ?
Anyways I decided to grab some shell ect c2 c3 0w30 and will use the mobil 1 esp 5w30 for the other Volkswagens in our family
To be honest 150bhp out of a 1.5 litre four cylinder petrol lump would indicate a relatively high state of tune.
Not so long ago just over 200bhp from a 2.0 WRX was considered decent power.
It shows how far engines have come in the last 15/20 years
Just to add the my daughters Q2 will never see anything but 508/509 0w20, I have never thought about what oil the higher powered TFSi engines used, I assumed it would be 5w30.
As the 1.5 TFSi was a new engine for the 2020 model year I wonder if the earlier 1.4 TFSi also used 0w20?
I am going to have to look that up.
Edit.
2019 1.4 TFSi was 0w20 according to Shell Lubematch.
Interesting the 1.0 TFSi in 2019 and 2020 was 0w30 and in 2023 it was 0w20.
Is it all fuel economy? Or have they actually updated the engine in some way?
The 1.5tfsi in my daughters Q2 is like a little sewing machine of an engine.
I also have two Skoda Octavia diesels that I maintain for work purposes they are fed a diet of 5w30 504/507, both have DPFs and though they do between 1000 and 5000 miles a year over the last 5 years, they often spend hours idling, both were NHS Response Cars so have been subject to lots of 24/7 usage and long periods of idling.
Strangely neither has ever had an issue with the DPF or oil usage
I have been using 5w30 504/507 once a year in each.
What would you run in two VAG diesels that do little mileage but sometimes a fair bit of idling?
As the 1.5 TFSi was a new engine for the 2020 model year I wonder if the earlier 1.4 TFSi also used 0w20?
I am going to have to look that up.
Edit.
2019 1.4 TFSi was 0w20 according to Shell Lubematch.
Interesting the 1.0 TFSi in 2019 and 2020 was 0w30 and in 2023 it was 0w20.
Is it all fuel economy? Or have they actually updated the engine in some way?
The 1.5tfsi in my daughters Q2 is like a little sewing machine of an engine.
I also have two Skoda Octavia diesels that I maintain for work purposes they are fed a diet of 5w30 504/507, both have DPFs and though they do between 1000 and 5000 miles a year over the last 5 years, they often spend hours idling, both were NHS Response Cars so have been subject to lots of 24/7 usage and long periods of idling.
Strangely neither has ever had an issue with the DPF or oil usage
I have been using 5w30 504/507 once a year in each.
What would you run in two VAG diesels that do little mileage but sometimes a fair bit of idling?
Last edited:
