Soak with Deep Creep at least overnight, I would use my baby 3/8 drive impact driver, & think HAPPY THOUGHTS while I was doing it!
using impact wrench for removing spark plugs
- Thread starter Donald
- Start date
- Status
Iron head? No problem with an impact on very low and allow it to 'rattle' the threads free, avoid the temptation to turn it up a bit, it may rattle a while before breaking free.
Aluminum head forget the impact.
A 3/8 cordless would be fine for this job in iron heads.
Even if it doesn't break it free it may rattle it enough that some of the penetrating fluid goes down the threads.
Aluminum head forget the impact.
A 3/8 cordless would be fine for this job in iron heads.
Even if it doesn't break it free it may rattle it enough that some of the penetrating fluid goes down the threads.
Ford 300 you say? I've owned two of those. Couple hundred thousand miles on each. The rear three plugs always seemed to "seize" in the heads alot more than the fronts. From what I remember. The #6 was always took some serious torque with a bar.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I'm amazed at the number of opinions against an impact, assuming this is an iron-headed Ford 300.
Personally, I WOULD use an impact (gently, in short bursts, and starting on the lowest air flow setting) before I'd tug on it with a breaker bar. If you have a small "butterfly" impact wrench, that would be the best option. I've broken FAR more parts with a breaker bar than I have with an impact wrench. Yes, its unnerving to realize you can't "feel" the part breaking loose, but you have to trust that short, sharp hammer-blow pulses of torque are simply less damaging than sustained high torque like you get from a breaker bar.
I have a couple of DeWalt cordless impact wrenches - a 3/8" and a 1/2" - that I use in just this kind of situation. The 3/8" is particularly useful as it can't generate enough torque to break a seized bolt, but it will often be successful in breaking it loose. I actually think of the 3/8" cordless impact as a torque limiter which is exactly what you want. Breaker bar? Not so much.
For a seized plug in an aluminum head, I'd spray a good amount of Kroil into the spark plug recess - enough so that liquid is visible - and let it sit for as long as it takes. You can drive the vehicle in the meantime. One week of Kroil will loosen anything. As soon as the plug is moving, alternately loosen and tighten until it comes out.
I'm amazed at the number of opinions against an impact, assuming this is an iron-headed Ford 300.
Personally, I WOULD use an impact (gently, in short bursts, and starting on the lowest air flow setting) before I'd tug on it with a breaker bar. If you have a small "butterfly" impact wrench, that would be the best option. I've broken FAR more parts with a breaker bar than I have with an impact wrench. Yes, its unnerving to realize you can't "feel" the part breaking loose, but you have to trust that short, sharp hammer-blow pulses of torque are simply less damaging than sustained high torque like you get from a breaker bar.
I have a couple of DeWalt cordless impact wrenches - a 3/8" and a 1/2" - that I use in just this kind of situation. The 3/8" is particularly useful as it can't generate enough torque to break a seized bolt, but it will often be successful in breaking it loose. I actually think of the 3/8" cordless impact as a torque limiter which is exactly what you want. Breaker bar? Not so much.
For a seized plug in an aluminum head, I'd spray a good amount of Kroil into the spark plug recess - enough so that liquid is visible - and let it sit for as long as it takes. You can drive the vehicle in the meantime. One week of Kroil will loosen anything. As soon as the plug is moving, alternately loosen and tighten until it comes out.
It seems to me, and has for a long time, that a seal such as that created by a spark plug would make it highly unlikely that any type of penetrant would be able to flow past it from the top.
That said, I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
That said, I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
When you talked about your snowcat, I thought you were referring to an Arctic Cat.. Do you have pics of this thing??
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3250977/Searchpage/1/Main/210685/Words/sw48/Search/true/My_new_"tracks&qu#Post3250977
When you talked about your snowcat, I thought you were referring to an Arctic Cat.. Do you have pics of this thing??
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3250977/Searchpage/1/Main/210685/Words/sw48/Search/true/My_new_"tracks&qu#Post3250977
I can also spray fogging oil down the manifold to get some oil on the cylinders before starting. But not sure it will start with the existing plugs. Who knows. The carb is back from Treadwell Carb and they said there was a lot of water corrosion. I have new gas lines and I have added and drained alcohol twice and gas once to the gas tank. I have found E0 gas for $4.19/gallon and will get 5 gallons and use Blue Stabil. But its still under 20F during the day. Hands get cold quickly.
Quote:
I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
If it starts moving but gets tight, stop. Add more penetrant (WD-40 is the weakest mentioned so far; I'd use anything else.) Turn both directions, add more penetrant, turn both directions until you get it out.
I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
If it starts moving but gets tight, stop. Add more penetrant (WD-40 is the weakest mentioned so far; I'd use anything else.) Turn both directions, add more penetrant, turn both directions until you get it out.
Originally Posted By: neilLB7
Ford 300 you say? I've owned two of those. Couple hundred thousand miles on each. The rear three plugs always seemed to "seize" in the heads alot more than the fronts. From what I remember. The #6 was always took some serious torque with a bar.
This engine is mounted backwards. The fan belts are at the rear of the machine.
Ford 300 you say? I've owned two of those. Couple hundred thousand miles on each. The rear three plugs always seemed to "seize" in the heads alot more than the fronts. From what I remember. The #6 was always took some serious torque with a bar.
This engine is mounted backwards. The fan belts are at the rear of the machine.
This is the reason we use anti seize on plug threads.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
When you talked about your snowcat, I thought you were referring to an Arctic Cat.. Do you have pics of this thing??
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3250977/Searchpage/1/Main/210685/Words/sw48/Search/true/My_new_"tracks&qu#Post3250977
Very awesome machine. Best of luck.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
When you talked about your snowcat, I thought you were referring to an Arctic Cat.. Do you have pics of this thing??
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3250977/Searchpage/1/Main/210685/Words/sw48/Search/true/My_new_"tracks&qu#Post3250977
Very awesome machine. Best of luck.
Originally Posted By: chestand
It seems to me, and has for a long time, that a seal such as that created by a spark plug would make it highly unlikely that any type of penetrant would be able to flow past it from the top.
That said, I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
Thats seems to be the case, O2 sensors are the same. You could collect your pension quicker than penetrants get through that gas tight compressible seal.
It seems to me, and has for a long time, that a seal such as that created by a spark plug would make it highly unlikely that any type of penetrant would be able to flow past it from the top.
That said, I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
Thats seems to be the case, O2 sensors are the same. You could collect your pension quicker than penetrants get through that gas tight compressible seal.
I am getting a Milwaukee M18 Fuel High Torque impact wrench shortly. It has some electronics to allow one to set a low torque setting along with a very high torque setting. PB Blaster still soaking.
Do really cold temps help here. Should be -6F tonight.
Do really cold temps help here. Should be -6F tonight.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: chestand
It seems to me, and has for a long time, that a seal such as that created by a spark plug would make it highly unlikely that any type of penetrant would be able to flow past it from the top.
That said, I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
Thats seems to be the case, O2 sensors are the same. You could collect your pension quicker than penetrants get through that gas tight compressible seal.
Not to mention that on the 300 ford won't hold any penetrant on the plug because of how the head is designed. A seal good enough to not let combustion gasses out isn't going to let penetrant in.
An impact is going to put a true radial torque on the plug. A breaker bar is going to torque the plug in a couple of different directions.
As simple as a ford 300 is and depending how determined you are you could pull the head and soak it from the back side. You could do that fairly easy. Or you could just run it. Getting it up to temp and back down might cut it loose. You aren't going to kill that motor just because you didn't put some oil in one cylinder.
Originally Posted By: chestand
It seems to me, and has for a long time, that a seal such as that created by a spark plug would make it highly unlikely that any type of penetrant would be able to flow past it from the top.
That said, I have used penetrants to aid in removal of plugs that were balky on the unscrewing, but only after getting them to crack loose slightly initially.
Thats seems to be the case, O2 sensors are the same. You could collect your pension quicker than penetrants get through that gas tight compressible seal.
Not to mention that on the 300 ford won't hold any penetrant on the plug because of how the head is designed. A seal good enough to not let combustion gasses out isn't going to let penetrant in.
An impact is going to put a true radial torque on the plug. A breaker bar is going to torque the plug in a couple of different directions.
As simple as a ford 300 is and depending how determined you are you could pull the head and soak it from the back side. You could do that fairly easy. Or you could just run it. Getting it up to temp and back down might cut it loose. You aren't going to kill that motor just because you didn't put some oil in one cylinder.
An impact is the only guaranteed way to get the ford 2 piece plugs out without breaking them off in the head.
- Status
Similar threads
