Urgent Brake Caliper Help - 2013 Taurus

[Nukeman7]

Jeez, no, don't use teflon tape. It's never recommended for brake fluid. Pressure can hit 2000 PSI.

If you can't fix it right, go to a shop. A brake fluid leak is no good.

I'm a little suspicious of using "pipe thread" to seal.

Edit, I looked at a pic on rockauto and see two copper washers you may be missing.

I also see the two copper washers on the Rockauto website, but only for the Dorman brand hose. Those washers are not in the photos for any of the other brands (e.g., Motorcraft, Raybestos, Centric, Sunsong & Dynamic Friction). Not sure how the washers could fit on the caliper inlet end of the hose based upon the caliper photo below.

 

[mk378]

It could be a conical seal at the bottom of the hole in the caliper, the same way that a bleeder bolt seals.

In any case this connection cannot be serviced properly without disconnecting the other end of the hose to resolve the rotational ambiguity. If you cannot do this go to a shop.

 

[kschachn]

Will let it leak until weather improves. I may have to try another caliper to see if threads seal better.

It’s not sealing on the threads.

 

[Jetronic]

no it's a conical seal, hence needing to be threaded in completely

 

[KrisZ]

If I do this the hose is not tight enough, and it will leak. If I attempt to go one more revolution, it is WAY too tight and I have to stop half to three quarters of the way of one full rotation and the hose is not aligned with the angle of movement. Its kind of kinked.

How bad is the kink? Having it kinked a little is better than leaking. It’s a rubber hose for a reason, it should take a little bit of misalignment.

 

[paulo57509]

Am I missing something? Getting the hose to seal at the caliper shouldn't be this difficult. It also shouldn't be left leaking, no matter how small the leak.

I also can't understand why the hose end, opposite the caliper cannot be removed from the chassis/bracket. Once the hard line is removed from the hose, removing this clip should release the hose.

Once this end is removed from the bracket, the hose is now able to be fully tightened to seal the flares in the caliper.

Mount the caliper, install the hose into the caliper, position the hose in the bracket without twist (a little is tolerable to get it into the bracket hole), re-install the clip and reconnect the hard line. Bleed the system and road test.

 

[KrisZ]

Am I missing something? Getting the hose to seal at the caliper shouldn't be this difficult. It also shouldn't be left leaking, no matter how small the leak.

I also can't understand why the hose end, opposite the caliper cannot be removed from the chassis/bracket. Once the hard line is removed from the hose, removing this clip should release the hose.

View attachment 204989

Once this end is removed from the bracket, the hose is now able to be fully tightened to seal the flares in the caliper.

Mount the caliper, install the hose into the caliper, position the hose in the bracket without twist (a little is tolerable to get it into the bracket hole), re-install the clip and reconnect the hard line. Bleed the system and road test.

Yup, that’s what I suggested but OP said it’s impossible for some reason. Why? I have no idea.