Ultimate torture of engine and engine oil?
- Thread starter wwillson
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A little better torture test...We had a 36 inch sewer line tv'ed by a company today..Van sat idle for 5 hours straight,all the camera equipment was run off a generator so the only reason the van was running was for the ac..I didn't ask what kind of oil was in it but there was a jiffy lube sticker in the window saying the next change was due 5/30/04 or 38,000 miles..The odo indicated there was now 52,000 on the clock.!!!!!So I can only assume there is 17,000 miles on the most likely dino oil and who knows how much idle time...I just can't believe that people are that negligent...Oil Life Monitor's would be a good thing,in this case anyway, but it should be taken one step further,run an electrical charge through the seat and have a speaker blare in the driver's ear,CHANGE THE OIL STUPID.!!!!!!
I got one for ya. My friend has a Stratus R/T Coupe. Its got the 3.0 Mitsu 6-Cyl in it. He thinks its a collectors car and he "babys" it. Well I was BSing with him about 3 weeks ago and he said he was coming up on time to change his oil. He said the last time he changed it was Dec 31st. Now mind you he is just hitting 3000 miles and its his daily driver. He drives about 1 mile tops to work. I would love to see and UOA on that thing
Eric
Eric
Jackpot: I have the Chrysler badged version of that car. I change dino oil at about 5,000 mi, and at the current 26,000 mi, still not a speck of sludge or varnish visible. Valvetrain looks like it was installed yesterday. While admirable, your friend's maintenance schedule looks ultra-conservative in my opinion.
"Ultimate torture of engine oil..."
Other than certain racing events, to me this might be an engine with routine extended idling or low-speed driving in a dusty and very hot environment. Maybe an ambulance or paramedics' rig serving a backroads desert community, or some delivery trucks which make long stops in those same areas, like a Culligan water softener tank change-out truck. Or maybe an Arizona or Las Vegas taxicab which routinely gets stuck in rush hour city traffic.
"Ultimate torture of engine oil..."
Other than certain racing events, to me this might be an engine with routine extended idling or low-speed driving in a dusty and very hot environment. Maybe an ambulance or paramedics' rig serving a backroads desert community, or some delivery trucks which make long stops in those same areas, like a Culligan water softener tank change-out truck. Or maybe an Arizona or Las Vegas taxicab which routinely gets stuck in rush hour city traffic.
I bet the oil is changed in that van by mileage too. Probably not an hour meter on it but maybe the oil life monitor takes idle time into account. I believe the 6.0s have a oil to water cooler in the radiator so I bet coolant temps would have to be ~250F to allow oil temps that high. This has to lead to a short life
Also I've noticed that the temp at the filter while running is about 10 degrees less than the oil is when it is drained into a pan (using the same IR thermometer)
I don't care what anyone says, 280 degree oil has to allow more wear than oil at 220 degrees no matter how good the oil is.
A vac van seems like a perfect application for a diesel. Less fuel consumption at high idle and a lot less heat.
Also I've noticed that the temp at the filter while running is about 10 degrees less than the oil is when it is drained into a pan (using the same IR thermometer)
I don't care what anyone says, 280 degree oil has to allow more wear than oil at 220 degrees no matter how good the oil is.
A vac van seems like a perfect application for a diesel. Less fuel consumption at high idle and a lot less heat.
WOW 295F is hot!! Did the manual say anything about syn oil? I wouldn't think dino would last long at those temps. Did that VW come with a oil temp guage? Pretty cool to get one from the factory but wouldn't be better for the manufacturer to just put on a bigger oil cooler?
My vote for the ultimate torture award is a 1998-2001 Toyota Sienna owner, who only does short trips in town. The oil never really gets to operating temperature. Then follows a 3K OCI from Jiffy Lube. Later on in the life of the vehicle, they'll wonder why they're having blue smoke puff out the back upon startup.
This is why I have decided to buy no more used cars! Get 'em new and know exactly what you have.
Congrads PATMAN... glad to see you get the car I heard you talking about.
I would like to know anyone who has a TACOMA
that knows their TEMP for sure to let me know.
I run them hard most of the time and whenever I can I do cruze the MIRICLE mile or thereabouts...
Daily, day in and out... Last truck has 420K and new truck has 16K
Only problem is my MPG "Stinks"
[ August 20, 2004, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: Robbie Alexander ]
Patman
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I was thorougly impressed today, because after doing 10 dyno pulls on my car this afternoon, the oil temp at the end of the day was still under 200F!! We did let the car cooldown before the beginning of the runs, then for over an hour in between the first and second run while I changed the plugs and put on a modified Z06 airbox. But even still, once we got things sorted out we ended up making 8 of the dyno pulls within an hour or so. And yet the oil never got super hot! Part of the reason could be because with the new cooling fan settings I've now got (which were a part of the dyno tune), now my coolant temp stays nicely below 200F most of the time. I'd probably have to get stuck in some seriously long traffic, or do some road racing, in order to see either the coolant or oil temps get super hot now.
I picked up 11 rwhp today too, and 11 ft lbs of torque. (it makes 291rwhp/302rwtq) We also bumped up the shift points by 3mph, and quickened up the time it takes to make the shift. So it definitely plants you firmly in the seat on the 1-2 shift now. And the power and torque is up all across the rev range, so it's feeling stronger even at part throttle too. The air fuel ratio is more stable now too, and is at 13:1. It was originally around 13.6:1 so it was a bit rich. I also went from having 7 degrees of knock retard down to zero. That change came from the new plugs. I went with NGK TR6s (one step colder than stock) gapped at .050.
[ August 21, 2004, 04:29 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
Don't like to nit pick the mods, and it sounds like a great running car.
On the air-fuel ratio the first number is the air. 13.6:1 is a leaner mixture than 13:1. Both mixtures are relatively rich, and sound like the mixture applied under heavy load. At light throttle cruise the mixture is very close to 14.7 to 1. The richer full throttle mixtures help quell detonation and provide a degree of cooling.
[ August 20, 2004, 08:54 PM: Message edited by: tpi ]
Max torque is often arround 12.5 and max HP around 13.1, these are rough estimates and every motor is different, and yes those ratios would be under load like WOT with the wheels on big steel rollers(dyno testing). O2s are all about informing the pcm so it can keep the AFR at 14.7 at light throttle cruise once warm.
Patman, sounds like the stock tuning in the LS1s is a whole lot better than the LT1s, but at least now you know the car is tuned right piece of mind is important. The 13.6 is probably why it was detecting detonation that is a little lean and could certainly cause some pinging. I would use the IR gun at work to check my oil filter temp but seeing as it is right next to the cat I don't think the test would be valid.
[ August 20, 2004, 09:51 PM: Message edited by: DJ ]
Would be interesting to see UOAs on it at 5 10 15 and 20 thou. Meijer oil is packaged by Citgo. They recently had a rebate deal where you got up to 12 qts Meijer oil for 50 cents each. Would be good for an AutoRx regime. I have seen the Meijer oil in dino, high mileage, and I think also synthetic. Never bought any though.
Patman
Staff member
Sorry, the 13.6 was a typo on my part, it was 12.6 originally, so it was a tad richer.
Patman
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Yes he did.
Patman
Staff member
They reprogram the computer for more power. They adjust the air/fuel ratio to be better for power, and optimize the spark advance curve throughout the rpm range.
Every car is slightly different, so dyno tuning is better than a Hypertech (or similar) type of unit.
I always wondered how hard one of my motorbikes used to be on engine oil, I know it had "very" short change intervals recommended, which was not real surprising when you realise it was a 250CC 4 stroke that pulled up to 18000rpm with just general daily riding.
patman how much does a tuneup like yours cost?
so GC keept things pretty cool then?
so GC keept things pretty cool then?
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