Transmission Flare 2011 Camry

[Shel_B]

On my return trip from Chicago, I found that the trans on the Camry became prone to flaring, generally on the 2-3 shift and the 4-5 shift. This is new behavior and I have some questions.

I thought I'd drive it around town for a while and see how the trans behaves before paying someone to look at and repair it. If I live with the problem a while longer, might the flare cause more damage to the trans that would end up being more costly to repair?

Around town, I'm usually in 3rd or 4th gear. Not shifting to 5th or 6th will eliminate the 4-5 occurrence of the flare. Will the 4-5 flare problem get worse over time even if I'm not shifting from 4-5?

In order to properly fix the flare issue, will the trans need a full rebuild or can just a few components be replaced? Would it be a good idea to rebuild the trans anyway since it would be out of the car and probably at least partially dismantled? Generally, what would need to be done to properly repair the flare issue, both minimally and also very thoroughly?

Thanks!

 

[Astro14]

Did you check the fluid level? Condition?

Change the fluid first. Then see what you’ve got. Diagnosing over the internet is difficult, but in general, fresh fluid will resolve problems due to low viscosity, like flare. It’s a hydraulic system, so with wear and age, building pressure becomes more difficult. Fresh fluid might help, and it’s cheap, so try that first.

 

[JeffKeryk]

What @Astro14 said...
Sometimes that "lifetime fluid" gets a little tired.

 

[eljefino]

Piling on with the fluid checks.

IDK if this tranny is adaptive like chrysler's, but there's a chance that the fluid's been going south for a while now and the computer adapted to this condition, until it can't anymore.

But when a tranny shifts, solenoids open ports that move fluid that moves little parts that seal with o-rings and magic. Tired fluid distorts this dance. Give it a shot.

 

[Shel_B]

Did you check the fluid level? Condition?

Change the fluid first. Then see what you’ve got. Diagnosing over the internet is difficult, but in general, fresh fluid will resolve problems due to low viscosity, like flare. It’s a hydraulic system, so with wear and age, building pressure becomes more difficult. Fresh fluid might help, and it’s cheap, so try that first.

No way to check the fluid level easily as there's no dipstick. Fluid was fresh about 14 mos ago, about 10,000 miles (4,000+ of which were on this last trip), mostly around town so probably not much stress on the fluid, until possibly this trip.

To do the simple checks suggested here I'd have to bring it to a shop, which, at least for the short term, I'd like to avoid. In order to help make my decision on when to repair the problem, I'd like to get answers to my specific questions, if that's possible.

Maybe a drain and fill anyway?

Thanks!

 

[Hall]

not much stress on the fluid, until possibly this trip.

Highway driving, typically at a set speed, is a piece of cake on a transmission.

Look at the shift solenoids. Odds of two acting up at the same time are pretty slim though....

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

I don't know this transmission, but it sounds like one of the DIY-unfriendly ones. It makes sense to start with a drain and fill at a shop you trust, since the plug probably needs to be pulled to check the level anyway.

Transgo makes a shift improver kit that says this:

Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:

• Shuttle shifts or flare 2-3 shift
• Slips with throttle in 3rd and/or 4th gear
• TCC slip codes

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12162869&cc=1446188&pt=8532&jsn=1336

 

[LazyDog]

In 2019 my friend had this same car and flare on the trans. It was low miles, and she contacted Toyota directly.
Customer service told her to bring it to a specific dealer for a trans check and after few hours shes was told Toyota will be replacing your trans free of charge. Toyota has a service bulletin and is aware of this problem.

 

[Shel_B]

In 2019 my friend had this same car and flare on the trans. It was low miles, and she contacted Toyota directly.
Customer service told her to bring it to a specific dealer for a trans check and after few hours shes was told Toyota will be replacing your trans free of charge. Toyota has a service bulletin and is aware of this problem.

On an 11-year-old car with 90,000+ miles on it? And I'm not the original owner? Might be worth a call or an email.

 

[FZ1]

Did you check the fluid level? Condition?

Change the fluid first. Then see what you’ve got. Diagnosing over the internet is difficult, but in general, fresh fluid will resolve problems due to low viscosity, like flare. It’s a hydraulic system, so with wear and age, building pressure becomes more difficult. Fresh fluid might help, and it’s cheap, so try that first.

This^^^^^^^^^^^^. Cross your fingers and change the fluid.

 

[atikovi]

Probably wouldn't make sense to spend $2500 on rebuilding the transmission in an 11 year old sedan. Get it scanned for codes and if a fluid change doesn't bring it back to how you want it, sell it while it still runs relatively well. Other people may not be bothered by what you describe.

 

[haggler]

No way to check the fluid level easily as there's no dipstick. Fluid was fresh about 14 mos ago, about 10,000 miles (4,000+ of which were on this last trip), mostly around town so probably not much stress on the fluid, until possibly this trip.

To do the simple checks suggested here I'd have to bring it to a shop, which, at least for the short term, I'd like to avoid. In order to help make my decision on when to repair the problem, I'd like to get answers to my specific questions, if that's possible.

Maybe a drain and fill anyway?

Thanks!

When you changed the fluid, how did you do it (exchange machine, drain and fill, etc) and did you pay to have it done? Is there a pattern to when it happens? Did it flare before the replacement? What fluid did they use? All things to consider.

If it was an exchange machine it's possible the level is off. If you are going to have them do a drain and fill I'd take it to a transmission shop that knows what they're doing rather than even the dealer. Seeing how the dealer serviced my girlfriends Camry, I would never advise taking it back there.

 

[wag123]

Since you have already changed the fluid (and used WS ATF, right?), this might work, and it won't hurt anything. IMO Lubegard Red is is about the only thing you can put in a transmission that isn't snake oil. Make sure that you don't overfill the transmission.

 

[The Critic]

Since someone has serviced the fluid before, verify the fluid level is set correctly.

There is a software update available for shift feel concerns. It is covered by the PZEV warranty if yours is a PZEV.

 

[Astro14]

So, you don’t want to bring it to a shop to check or change fluid, but you‘re OK with planning a total rebuild?

 

[Shel_B]

So, you don’t want to bring it to a shop to check or change fluid, but you‘re OK with planning a total rebuild?

I didn't say that I don't want to bring it to a shop to check or change fluid. I did say that I'd rather not do anything at this time, and I questioned what the consequences might be. Nor did I say I wanted or would be fine with a rebuild. I asked if a rebuild might be necessary to fully repair the problem. My initial post was filled with questions, the answers to which would possibly help determine what I would do, and when.

 

[Shel_B]

Since someone has serviced the fluid before, verify the fluid level is set correctly.

There is a software update available for shift feel concerns. It is covered by the PZEV warranty if yours is a PZEV.

Thanks!

Mine is a PZEV. How do I see if my unit is still covered?
I planned to talk to the shop owner who did the fluid service after this weekend

 

[Astro14]

I answered your post, Shel. I recommended a course of action.

I do not recommend ignoring this.

Each flared shift causes more wear than a regular shift as the bands slip more than they usually would.

By ignoring this, you will be faced with a rebuild much sooner.

Three of my Volvos have Aisin AW-55 transmissions (made by Toyota). They’re known for being short lived and unreliable. Fluid changes stopped the shift flare, for a while, and valve body surgery fixed them permanently. One of those transmissions has 285,000 miles on it. No rebuild needed.

My point: The sooner you act, the cheaper the fix.

The original quote to fix the XC was $6,100. In 2008. Transmissions aren’t cheap. I did everything, including fluids and valve body, for $750.

 

[Shel_B]

When you changed the fluid, how did you do it (exchange machine, drain and fill, etc) and did you pay to have it done? Is there a pattern to when it happens? Did it flare before the replacement? What fluid did they use? All things to consider.

If it was an exchange machine it's possible the level is off. If you are going to have them do a drain and fill I'd take it to a transmission shop that knows what they're doing rather than even the dealer. Seeing how the dealer serviced my girlfriends Camry, I would never advise taking it back there.

The fluid was exchanged by running new fluid thru the system until all the old fluid was out, pumping it out through the xmission lines, no machines were used. I went to a well-regarded and recommended local shop. It didn't flare before the replacement, and shortly after replacement I had two or three instances of flare on the 2-3 shift, then all was fine until this trip. Fluid was Toyota's WS fluid. I would bring the car back to the same shop I used for the fluid exchange.

 

[Shel_B]

I answered your post, Shel. I recommended a course of action.

I do not recommend ignoring this.

Each flared shift causes more wear than a regular shift as the bands slip more than they usually would.

By ignoring this, you will be faced with a rebuild much sooner.

Three of my Volvos have Aisin AW-55 transmissions (made by Toyota). They’re known for being short lived and unreliable. Fluid changes stopped the shift flare, for a while, and valve body surgery fixed them permanently. One of those transmissions has 285,000 miles on it. No rebuild needed.

My point: The sooner you act, the cheaper the fix.

The original quote to fix the XC was $6,100. In 2008. Transmissions aren’t cheap. I did everything, including fluids and valve body, for $750.

Thank you!