That’s the reason hand tight due to the heat cycles, tightening it up
Toyota Composite Oil Filter Cap STUCK - Any guidance?
- Thread starter JeffKeryk
- Start date
TLDR, I had a similar situation on my 2012 Cummins Ram fuel filter cap. I use a socket and extension set up to drive the top off with a breaker bar / ratchet and at the same time had a helper use a strap wrench around the outside of the cap. Not sure if a set up like this would help you or not...
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
Jeff makes a good point. All the expertise in the world doesn't make a bad design, made with questionable materials good.
They did, but they also started putting V6 Twin Turbos in full-size trucks and SUVs, where the old-school V8s were doing excellent. I hear those new V6's get about 2-3 more MPGs....
What a great decision, huh?
After reading this thread, I now understand how people can tear up so many lifetime warranty tools that I have never broken.
No, the reason isn't because I don't use them, it's because I use them correctly.
You don't have to tear every single thing up you touch. You really don't.
No, the reason isn't because I don't use them, it's because I use them correctly.
You don't have to tear every single thing up you touch. You really don't.
I can't help but think the alloy will be more trouble free than the plastic.
Slightly more idiot-proof?
I bought one awhile back but ended up never installing it. I changed my mind and figured it's best to let the plastic cap be the sacrificial piece should something ever go awry, not the threads on the engine-side filter housing. Plus the correct torque spec will not be the same for aluminum vs. plastic threads.
Well, overtightened is bad, regardless. But the metal caps will hopefully not distort when removing.
I wonder if a simple nylon “washer”/gasket around the flat part would ease the issue here. Idk what was oem on the 14 GS350, but when I bought it, it came with a metal cap. The first removal for me was, like so many here, stiff. We run into this a lot at my church’s oil change ministry, where a poor Corolla comes in and the thing is so hard to get off. I have the metal cap tool just for that reason.
Pretty sure I pulled the part #'s from your post #83 in this thread. Prices were within pennies of what you posted
My order summary:
Chrysler / Jeep employ both plastic oil pans, as well as transmission pans. Both are considered to be disposable after removal. After reading through this thread, I have a much clearer understanding of why.
There is a DIY way to convert the 2ZR/1ZR Corolla/Prius engines to take a Toyota Fx/N1 or 4967/4386/51394 filter using OE Toyota parts - the filter housing is swapped out. No need for expensive aftermarket adapters.
Bravo! Here's a video...
Sounds good to me.
Better fuel economy. A turbo to mitigate some of the performance lost at higher elevation.
Seems like a win-win.
