Thinking it would be good to not warm up before oil change.

[Propflux01]

Best way IMHO, if you really want to 'get it all out', is to run it until it's really warm. Not 5 minutes warm, talking a 30-60 minute ride warm. Then drain, and remove filter... Drain All night. Next day, complete your change out and ride on. To me, best of both worlds. One, all the stuff gets suspended, and 2, it all drains out, and any left running around in the engine drains to the pan and out the drain plug overnight.

 

[ammolab]

If the particals found their way to the bottom of the sump last time you shut the engine off hot …..then they don’t “stick” anywhere in a hot engine. So drain the thing hot and they will come to the bottom of the sump as usual and out the hole.

 

[paulo57509]

Sitting for 30 days? How long has it been since the last oil change? I would just fire it up and run it until the next OCI comes up.

 

[02SE]

Nice bike. I have a Panigale V4 Speciale. Back in my consumer car repair days I did some tests. Draining oil cold can leave behind residue which does not drain, no matter how long you leave the drain plug out. Every one of my vehicles gets the oil drained when it is at full operating temperature.

It's your choice, But I would drain the oil only after the bike has been run long enough to achieve and maintain full oil operating temp.

 

[SHOZ]

So when it's down to the drips; just how many in what time frame do you consider it done? I usually go 10 seconds per drip.

 

[Weaver412]

Wow… who knew that the search function on Xenforo actually worked?

When I tried all I got were threads on changing oil not if it had been sitting awhile. I'm the time you wrote that response you could have just replied. I deeply apologize for my lack of searching a forum I'm pretty new to. Good day.

 

[Weaver412]

Wow… who knew that the search function on Xenforo actually worked?

Sorry, I don't spend every single day on here. On a oil forum..............

 

[Hermann]

Highly debatable ..... No right or wrong way to do it ... whatever way you think is best .

The important thing is the oil is being renewed

 

[Hermann]

When I tried all I got were threads on changing oil not if it had been sitting awhile. I'm the time you wrote that response you could have just replied. I deeply apologize for my lack of searching a forum I'm pretty new to. Good day.

The search function on this and other Xenforo website forums leaves a lot to be desired IMO YMMV

 

[SHOZ]

You'll never get all the oil out anyway, hot or cold.

 

[blupupher]

Best way IMHO, if you really want to 'get it all out', is to run it until it's really warm. Not 5 minutes warm, talking a 30-60 minute ride warm. Then drain, and remove filter... Drain All night. Next day, complete your change out and ride on. To me, best of both worlds. One, all the stuff gets suspended, and 2, it all drains out, and any left running around in the engine drains to the pan and out the drain plug overnight.

But to what effect?
Having a few ounces of "old" oil left in the engine hurts nothing.
If you have particles in your oil that are not getting filtered out then you have other issues.
if you are talking about soot and such (particles finer than ~20 microns), who cares. It does not do damage to engines.

I am a cold oil changer on all my vehicles. I don't like getting hot oil all over me. Even with gloves it is a mess.
Only reason I start the engine before an oil change is to get it up onto the ramps.

My K1600 is impossible to change without getting oil all over you. It has 2 drain plugs, the external which is on the bottom of the pan, can usually get that one off without getting oil all over, but then there is an internal plug (the K1600 is a dry sump system) that is above the main drain plug, and you can't get to it without getting oil all over your hands.

 

[Propflux01]

You

But to what effect?
Having a few ounces of "old" oil left in the engine hurts nothing.
If you have particles in your oil that are not getting filtered out then you have other issues.
if you are talking about soot and such (particles finer than ~20 microns), who cares. It does not do damage to engines.

I am a cold oil changer on all my vehicles. I don't like getting hot oil all over me. Even with gloves it is a mess.
Only reason I start the engine before an oil change is to get it up onto the ramps.

My K1600 is impossible to change without getting oil all over you. It has 2 drain plugs, the external which is on the bottom of the pan, can usually get that one off without getting oil all over, but then there is an internal plug (the K1600 is a dry sump system) that is above the main drain plug, and you can't get to it without getting oil all over your hands.

You gotta keep in mind what site your on here…
me, I’ve only done my described method a couple three times. Just because.
But for some, sometimes not getting every last drop out leads to insomnia and tension headaches!

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Does draining the oil when it is hot get the most oil out of the engine?

Three different drain scenarios were compared. The first scenario was
the hot oil drain. The engine was warmed up to a water temperature of
200°F. The engine was running just seconds before draining. The oil
temperature was checked while draining the hot oil and was
approximately l50°F.

The second scenario was the warm oil drain. The engine was warmed up
to a water temperature a l45°F. The oil temperature was checked while
draining the warm oil and was approximately 90°F.

The third and final scenario was the cold oil drain. The engine was
warmed up to 200°F and then allowed to sit for 12 hours in a 50°F
garage.

The results showed that the cold engine drained out more oil than the
hot or warm engine did. The cold engine left behind 0.3% of the engine
oil, while the hot engine left behind 4.5% of the engine oil. The warm
engine left behind the most oil at 6.8%.

Why did the cold engine drain more oil? In two of the three
conditions, the engine was running and oil was being circulated
throughout the engine just prior to the oil being drained out. While
oil flows better when hot, it still takes time for all the oil to
return to the sump, where it can be drained out.

The warm engine oil increased the effect of the oil circulated
throughout the engine. Warm oil does not drain back as quickly to the
oil sump as hot oil does, so more of the oil is left in the engine in
the few minutes it takes to drain the oil sump.

In the case of the cold oil drain, the engine was hot when turned off.
The 12 hours of sitting allowed (almost) all the distributed oil to
return to the oil pan.

What About Particulates? SAE standards and research papers show that
oil filters capture particles down to 10 microns. When the engine is
turned off, the oil is relatively free of particles larger than 10
microns, and particles smaller than 10 microns will stay in suspension
even when the oil is cold.

What About Water and Fuel Contamination? In most cases, oil
contamination is held in suspension. Waiting until the oil is cold
will maximize the amount of contaminants that actually drain out.
Running the engine before changing the oil spreads the contaminated
oil throughout the engine, increasing the amount of contaminated oil
that is left behind and mixes with the new. clean oil.

What Was Drain Time? It took about twice as long to drain the cold oil
from the sump compared to the hot oil. The warm engine oil split the
difference in time between the two. But in all cases, draining the
sump took less than four minutes.

What's The Verdict? It's fine to drain used oil from a cold engine.
This avoids dealing with scalding hot oil and working around a hot
exhaust system. As a bonus, it also drains more of the dirty oil from
the engine.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Does draining the oil when it is hot get the most oil out of the engine?

Three different drain scenarios were compared. The first scenario was
the hot oil drain. The engine was warmed up to a water temperature of
200°F. The engine was running just seconds before draining. The oil
temperature was checked while draining the hot oil and was
approximately l50°F.

The second scenario was the warm oil drain. The engine was warmed up
to a water temperature a l45°F. The oil temperature was checked while
draining the warm oil and was approximately 90°F.

The third and final scenario was the cold oil drain. The engine was
warmed up to 200°F and then allowed to sit for 12 hours in a 50°F
garage.

The results showed that the cold engine drained out more oil than the
hot or warm engine did. The cold engine left behind 0.3% of the engine
oil, while the hot engine left behind 4.5% of the engine oil. The warm
engine left behind the most oil at 6.8%.

Why did the cold engine drain more oil? In two of the three
conditions, the engine was running and oil was being circulated
throughout the engine just prior to the oil being drained out. While
oil flows better when hot, it still takes time for all the oil to
return to the sump, where it can be drained out.

The warm engine oil increased the effect of the oil circulated
throughout the engine. Warm oil does not drain back as quickly to the
oil sump as hot oil does, so more of the oil is left in the engine in
the few minutes it takes to drain the oil sump.

In the case of the cold oil drain, the engine was hot when turned off.
The 12 hours of sitting allowed (almost) all the distributed oil to
return to the oil pan.

What About Particulates? SAE standards and research papers show that
oil filters capture particles down to 10 microns. When the engine is
turned off, the oil is relatively free of particles larger than 10
microns, and particles smaller than 10 microns will stay in suspension
even when the oil is cold.

What About Water and Fuel Contamination? In most cases, oil
contamination is held in suspension. Waiting until the oil is cold
will maximize the amount of contaminants that actually drain out.
Running the engine before changing the oil spreads the contaminated
oil throughout the engine, increasing the amount of contaminated oil
that is left behind and mixes with the new. clean oil.

What Was Drain Time? It took about twice as long to drain the cold oil
from the sump compared to the hot oil. The warm engine oil split the
difference in time between the two. But in all cases, draining the
sump took less than four minutes.

What's The Verdict? It's fine to drain used oil from a cold engine.
This avoids dealing with scalding hot oil and working around a hot
exhaust system. As a bonus, it also drains more of the dirty oil from
the engine.

Source? Or personal anecdote?

 

[weaponoffreedom]

Curious... Wouldn't the particles be washed out by the oil flowing out the drain? Always wondered.
Maybe some enterprising young scientist can run some experiments?

If I am pulling the plug, I prefer cooler because the service is easier on a cooler engine. Now the MityVac hates cool oil.

No.

 

[Astro14]

I thought that, among all the other things I have learned here on BITOG, one of them is that among the additives in modern motor oils some of them have the specific function of keeping "particles" in suspension. The function of these additives is not so much to keep particles off the bottom of the crankcase, but rather to somewhat encapsulate the "particles", so they don't come in contact with the metal surfaces. If this is true, it shouldn't be needed to warm up an engine before oil change.

If it is not true, I've often wondered, which is worse? Draining a cold engine and risking "particles", setting in the bottom of the crankcase, not getting flushed out with the drained oil. Or, getting all those "particles" well distributed in warm oil, but now splattered all over and sticking to, all the interior surfaces of the crankcase.

I've drained hot, warm, and cold. IMHO, the only disadvantage to cold is the slow drain time. If that doesn't bother you, go for it.

Particles in suspension will fall out, eventually. Hard to know if that time is minutes, or years, but they will fall out. The particles bonded to something may stay in suspension a bit longer, but eventually, gravity wins.

If this were not true, centrifuges would not work.

But they do work, you can even separate isotopes with minute differences in mass via gravity.

So, let the oil sit for a month? Something will fall out. Again, hard to know how long, but I prefer not to give them any time to fall out.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Source? Or personal anecdote?

I lost the source during a HD upgrade...

 

[BHopkins]

Particles in suspension will fall out, eventually. Hard to know if that time is minutes, or years, but they will fall out. The particles bonded to something may stay in suspension a bit longer, but eventually, gravity wins.

If this were not true, centrifuges would not work.

But they do work, you can even separate isotopes with minute differences in mass via gravity.

So, let the oil sit for a month? Something will fall out. Again, hard to know how long, but I prefer not to give them any time to fall out.

Not knowing how long particles will stay in suspension is the real fly in the ointment, for both the drain cold and drain hot camps, isn't it? For me at least, when I think of a cold oil drain, it isn't on an engine that has been idle for months, or even weeks. Rather, it is an engine that was last turned off just the previous day. Or maybe two days previous.

Also, knowing that every engine retains somewhere between 1 and 2 quarts of motor oil, sometimes more, no matter how long you leave the drain plug out, how much difference does it really make, if some of the particles that were in the oil in the crankcase, may have fell out of suspension and remain the the bottom of the sump? You still have dirty oil as soon as the fresh oil mixes with those 1-2 quarts that were still in there.

It is too bad that @BusyLittleShop lost his source for the study that was done on this subject. Without it, or some other data, all we have are theories and opinions.

 

[Astro14]

Not knowing how long particles will stay in suspension is the real fly in the ointment, for both the drain cold and drain hot camps, isn't it? For me at least, when I think of a cold oil drain, it isn't on an engine that has been idle for months, or even weeks. Rather, it is an engine that was last turned off just the previous day. Or maybe two days previous.

Also, knowing that every engine retains somewhere between 1 and 2 quarts of motor oil, sometimes more, no matter how long you leave the drain plug out, how much difference does it really make, if some of the particles that were in the oil in the crankcase, may have fell out of suspension and remain the the bottom of the sump? You still have dirty oil as soon as the fresh oil mixes with those 1-2 quarts that were still in there.

It is too bad that @BusyLittleShop lost his source for the study that was done on this subject. Without it, or some other data, all we have are theories and opinions.

I agree. Would love to see that set of results. I generally drain hot, because I drove the car to the shop.

But the OP question was for a motorcycle that has sat for a month.

That is a long time.

 

[SHOZ]

Hyundai will give you three oil fill specs. Oil and filter change, oil pan or new block. My Gen Coupe has a sump in the front of the pan that will retain about a pint or so no matter what.

1.6L Accent
Total oil 3.8L
Drain and filter 3.3L
New oil pan 3.0L

2L Gen Coupe
Total oil 5.9L
Drain and filter 5.3L
Oil pan 5.0L

Basically the filter is .3L But at least .5L is trapped in the block/pan.