Arrrgh it's Bitog. Is it pepper or fly excrement?
Thinking it would be good to not warm up before oil change.
- Thread starter Weaver412
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So the missing information in this "testing" is what defined the end of the drain period? Were all cases drained for the same amount of time? Was the drain period over when the oil only dripped X times in Y time? Without knowing that parameter, it's not a very good test comparison.
This doesn't make any sense. Basically all this is saying is that the hot and warm engines were not allowed to drain for long enough. If they're trying to say that hot/warm oil needs to sit for several hours in order for it to drain past the point of leaving ~7% in the engine, I don't buy that. Oil is circulated through the engine at several gallons per minute and needs to drain as fast as it is pumped.
Not to mention this "study" appear to have only been done on one type of engine, which is not identified.
So how many drips do you draw the line?
I typically drain oil within 20 minutes of a hot shutdown (so oil is still pretty hot), remove the filter and then let everything drain over night. So by the next day all oil has stopped dripping. But, if I don't do the over night drain I will typically let it drain for up to an hour while I change the filter and do some other checks. After an hour, the dip rate is pretty low.
Wait ... so in all cases the oil was only allowed to drain for less than 4 minutes? With the oil at room temperature, it's going to take more than 4 minutes to get an effective sump drain. Sure, all the oil that could drain down from the top end of the engine into the sump did so already, but I'd bet there was still some oil dripping pretty good after draining cold oil for less than 4 minutes.
Reference post in another similar thread.
Unusual Oil Change... "Method"???
Well, to get the oil hot I assume you run the engine. When the engine runs, oil is circulating throughout washing down engine parts and suspending the contaminants so they can drain out. Agreed. Without conflating contaminant suspension and the washing down function, why is that different than...
bobistheoilguy.com
Here's a PDF of the source:
https://www.starbikeforums.com/attachments/hotorcoldoil-pdf.109114/
It was only the intro that we were missing:
Having that "new block" specification is referenced often by Hyundai mechanics.
I tend to think, if there are particles, most of them are in the filter.. or floating around in the oil..
I prefer to drain oil hot. cause it comes out of the hole quickly.
Never worried about the rest of the scenarios as they probably make no difference over the long run.
It's a "me" problem but normally I do mine at the end of driveway on ramps utilizing the extra space from the sloped apron. If I block the driveway to long 3-4 other people get jammed up. I also don't want to leave my car up on ramps that way overnight. Since I need to pull it up on the ramps, if I shut the motor off the cold oil has circulated and takes longer to drain back.
Doing my filter swaps to check EC30 cleaning as I just did on CRV and Accord, I found the filters were much harder to remove when cold. I also found that a lot more oil than I expected drained from filter area. It also drained slower and "clung" to the outside of filter making more of mess. The filters on both sit at like a 45 degree angle at bottom of motor.
For me overall I'm on the warm to hot change. I'll pull it on the ramps and let it idle while I get the rest of my oil change gear together and prefill the filter with new oil. When temp gauge is up into range some I shut it down and then start draining a couple minutes later.
I don't have a bike. I like them. The idiots on the road I see daily have no respect for them and are oblivious in general. With the FD I respond to too many motorcycle vs. car accidents around here.
Doing my filter swaps to check EC30 cleaning as I just did on CRV and Accord, I found the filters were much harder to remove when cold. I also found that a lot more oil than I expected drained from filter area. It also drained slower and "clung" to the outside of filter making more of mess. The filters on both sit at like a 45 degree angle at bottom of motor.
For me overall I'm on the warm to hot change. I'll pull it on the ramps and let it idle while I get the rest of my oil change gear together and prefill the filter with new oil. When temp gauge is up into range some I shut it down and then start draining a couple minutes later.
I don't have a bike. I like them. The idiots on the road I see daily have no respect for them and are oblivious in general. With the FD I respond to too many motorcycle vs. car accidents around here.
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Try inputting your query into google, prefacing your search with site:bobistheoilguy.com
Thanks, @michael007, for sharing the article and link. Reading the article, it sounds like a lot of effort was put into making sure the data is valid.
Short of any other well done study, I'd say that it sounds like cold is a pretty good way to do an oil change.-
Short of any other well done study, I'd say that it sounds like cold is a pretty good way to do an oil change.-
That's for US made engines. Both my Korean engines have been rock solid.
Per the article, the end of the oil draining period was: "When no more oil was seen running down the clear tube ..."
But this is the part I have a hard time believing - so they are saying that with the cold oil at 50 deg F, it took less than 4 minutes for "no more oil was seen running down the clear tube" ... ? Hummm, hard to believe. I'd bet there was quite a bit of oil still dripping out at less then 4 minutes into the drain.
Seems like there would be a more repeatable way to determine the end of the drain period, like X drips per minute. Or just let it drain for 24 hours when there would probably be no more dripping. But seems their criteria for the end of the oil drain period was based on doing a "quick oil change", not really trying to determine the ultimate volume drain difference when all dripping had stopped.
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This thread has thoroughly drained my desire to put any effort into draining the oil. I once knew a guy who changed his oil three times in row in one day to "get it all out." I told him he had to do at least ten consecutive oil changes in one day to do this properly.
I put some nasty Shockproof oil in my manual once. It's puke green and clings to everything. Changed once with a normal gear oil and it came out the same green. So I put some naphtha type mineral spirts in it Jacked up, put it through all the gears for about 15 minutes under no load. Then let drain for two days.....
If it's a cold oil change I'll let it drain for hours. But it is this time that most of the solid crud comes out especially with the warm engine. It's sitting on the bottom and until the level is so low the oil starts dragging it out with it it, doesn't move when the oil is initially started to drain unless it's close to the drain opening. IMHO
If it's a cold oil change I'll let it drain for hours. But it is this time that most of the solid crud comes out especially with the warm engine. It's sitting on the bottom and until the level is so low the oil starts dragging it out with it it, doesn't move when the oil is initially started to drain unless it's close to the drain opening. IMHO
I am glad you have had a positive experience, but please.
Please what? 345k miles between the two.
